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Best of Rollbars: swing-out hardware, finishes, noise reduction, etc...

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GN SBS

Member
Joined
May 28, 2001
Messages
622
I've done a good bit of searching and my hope is to start a mother-of-all rollbar post. As stated in the title, what do folks think works best in terms of:

* Hardware for swing-outs: what is best in terms of ease of operation, squeek and rattle proofing, etc...

* Finishes: I've seen posts describing powdercoating, simple spray paint, and POR-15-- is there an overall winner? Are long-term users of POR-15 happy with it in terms of colors changing when exposed to sunlight?

* Which kit? I've seen numerous references to a kit from Ernie McDaniel Racecars as a very good fitting setup. Others to look at aside from the S&W and other common setups?

* Other things not to miss? That is, if you could make one change to your rollbar what would it be?

thanks!
Scott
 
Very happy with POR15. If you top coat it (like they suggest), there is no fade problems and the stuff is ultra tough.
The best route would be powder coating, but that gets ruined when you weld it in (and yes, ours has to be welded to the frame).

Best route is a custom built bar. I personally went with the S&W Chromoly unit with the optional "prostreet" bars and swing outs (yet to install).
 
I used the bar and swingouts from Chris Alston. www.cachassisworks.com
Excellent quality and fit. The swingouts are probably the nicest on the market ( solid billet) much nicer and more $$ than the S&W swingouts. But, in the end they still rattle. I've seen some real nice spring loaded swingouts on a few race cars that I'd like to know more about.
 
I'm thinking of a Roll Bar myself. I should be there ET wise this spring.

Are you guys doing the install yourself? Any Tips?

I was thinking the S&W Kit - Mild - Pro Street Bars - Swing outs.

MI guys with bars - I'd like to look at a couple.

Jeremy
 
Does anyone know someone they can recomend in the Chicago area to install a roll bar. Also, what about insurance? A friend told me he heard many insurance companies won't cover a car that has a roll bar installed in it. Thanks for any info! Paul
 
Being in chicago I'd like the know the answers to BOTH those questions. The insurance question in particular.

TIA
 
dont even bother with por15 if the metal is not pitted, the metal has to be extremely rough in order for it to stick. Even if you try sanding isnt good enough. just prime, 3 coats of paint, 2 coats of clear.

Ralph
 
I would also like to know of a good kit that goes through the rear deck and with swingouts. I've been tempting fate with no rollbar.

Derrick
 
(i) Thanks for the info on the finishes.

Anyone have ideas on a paint to match the GNs interior gray? I've used the SEM presidio plastic paint for plastics and it matches fairly well, but I'd love some ideas for the bars.

(ii) What about those swing-outs, any ideas on creative and quiet latches?

On the insurance question, I have very carefully read my binder and there is nothing about rollbars.

thanks,
Scott
 
I installed a S&W 8 pt kit in a '93 Camaro. For the price it was a good deal, but it required a lot of fit up. Not a one day install deal. I also used there swing out kits for both doors. They are pretty quiet, but I customized them to look nicer. You will need to put a brace under the bottom side bar to help support the bar when the swing out is disengaged.

Whenever I've needed to match interior paint I take a piece of the trim to the local body shop supply house and say match this. I buy a pint or quart of the paint and take it home and spray it on. That assumes you have a compressor and spray gun.

The owner of the above mentioned Camaro painted the cage gray to match the interior. He did not like it and painted it black.

A friend has a '94 Formula w/ a powder coated cage. When the cage was coated, the areas to be welded were left uncoated. When the welding was finished, the uncoated areas were painted. I turned out ok, but there are lines were the paint and powder coating meet.

HTH,


Steve.
 
I think the answer to rattling swingouts is to make them removeable and to keep them in the trunk except at the track where you won't care if they rattle :-). That's my plan for one-of-these-days, anyway. You could get really fancy and fab some brackets to stick them to the back of the rear seat so they don't bounce around in the trunk, too.
 
While we're on this subject, what's the cost of what you have? I know I'm definetly thinking about buying one in the near future & would like to know how everyone likes what they have, ease of installation & the cost.

Thanks,
The Darkside:cool:
 
http://banningcohen.com/buick/rollbar/

Details are there. The main thing I'd have done different, would be to have the rear bars go through the speaker holes in the rear. It's not a big deal to me though. I might also have liked to have a slight bend put in the side bars so they don't contact the door pannel arm rest.

-Banning.
 
I've got Ernie's 6 point in mine...had it powdercoated charcoal grey to match the interior of my "T"...as for ruining the paint when it's welded together I guess it's all up to the person doing the welding because the person welding mine did an excellent job...all I needed to do was take one of the swing out bars to an auto paint supply...they matched the paint and put it in a spray can...then I just sprayed the areas around the welds to blend in...have had a lot of compliments on the bar...it goes through the speaker holes in the back and I was still able to mount some speakers back there...only rattles are from the spring loaded lever for holding the swing out...could do something about it if I wanted but not bad enough to be annoying...I'm very happy with the way the bar turned out...
 
Don't know who the manufacture is but I've had two RB's installed that had chrome locking collars. Nothing looks nicer than these. A spring loaded collar slides down to allow the bar to swing out. The chrome collar stays down in the unlocked position until you put the bar back in place. When the bar hits the locking mechanism the collar automatically slides back up to lock the bar in position. The chrome collar hides the locking mechanism. Really nice.
Gary
 
Ok first why on earth would you put a side bar on the passenger side! IT'S NOT REQUIRED. It's just going to be a pain for the passenger and have the potential to make noise and cost more. On the drivers side my side bar is a bolt in used only at the track. I have to crawl over it at the track, but big deal. If you want it swing out make it removable. I know several people that have done that. My back bars go through the package tray so it doesn't ruin the back seat. And the bar across the back for the shoulder belt mount is bolted in also so that when removed the back seat is perfectly functional.

I had a car upholstery shop make fabric covers for the bar the same color as the interior. It really makes the bar unnoticable.

And if you read the rule book carefully you will see that it only says the bar behind the seat has to be attached to the roll bar. It doesn't say it has to be welded. And swing out bars are permissible and does not say they can't be bolted in either.
 
MOST swing outs ARE bolted in....
Also, You'd be kicked off the track around here if you tried to get through tech with the cross bar bolted in. It's the tech inspectors interpretation that's important. I hope your using at least grade 8s.
Your tracks tech must be lienient.
 
2 Slow, the reason for having a passenger side swing out is for us guys that want a balanced look and aren't worried about NHRA rules. More of a street car thing. I do believe however that the bars I had where "legal". So I was told.
Gary
 
Originally posted by zam70
MOST swing outs ARE bolted in....
Also, You'd be kicked off the track around here if you tried to get through tech with the cross bar bolted in. It's the tech inspectors interpretation that's important. I hope your using at least grade 8s.
Your tracks tech must be lienient.


To edit my self

Bolted at the bottom with a grade 8 pin at the top
 
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