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If you have a basically stock car or slighlty modded then buy the Napa Gold 1036 oil filter. Its made by Wix and is probably the best stock replacement on the market.
 
Nick, what does your engine builder (Zimmerman) recommend for use on his racing engines (typical 10, 9 sec race engine)?

Thanks in advance.

Zimmerman uses Fram racing filters on his 8 sec. Mustang and also on his 7 sec. dragster. He recommends the same to all his customers.

That is what I will now use exclusively.
 
If you have a basically stock car or slighlty modded then buy the Napa Gold 1036 oil filter. Its made by Wix and is probably the best stock replacement on the market.


Nothing filters as well as the EAO as has been proven in numerous independant tests. Stock or race car, why wouldn't you want the best filtration? These things filter as good as a bypass system.
 
Zimmerman uses Fram racing filters on his 8 sec. Mustang and also on his 7 sec. dragster. He recommends the same to all his customers.

That is what I will now use exclusively.

He probably hasn't heard of the EAO.

At 50 microns, it's not going to be pretty when you get into boundary lubrication...
 
Zimmerman uses Fram racing filters on his 8 sec. Mustang and also on his 7 sec. dragster. He recommends the same to all his customers.

That is what I will now use exclusively.

I read up on the Fram racing filters and they appear to be a great filter. :cool:
 
I use two oil filters on my engines. Two filters are better than one! :biggrin:

Red Regal T, I know I'm off topic here, but I like that feature about the two filters. Do you have a picture from a different angle? How hard is to do that type of conversion? Thanks.

German
 
He probably hasn't heard of the EAO.

At 50 microns, it's not going to be pretty when you get into boundary lubrication...

It is not "pretty" when a 20 micron filter restricts flow at low RPM and take out a BB turbo.:mad:

I don't know and don't care about "boundary lubrication" and other fancy specs and claims from distributors. In "our performance world", we want what works best for the applications we need to deal with. Untold $$$$ and time have been spent in determining what products do NOT work, and what does work. We have used many different types of products to determine what works best for us.

My personal experience with Amsoil is that I will not use it even if free. I am not trying to "sell" anything here, just answering a simple question, and stating facts from our personal experience in performance applications.:)
 
I've been using an 8 micron filter since 2002. Beautiful results. 50 micron? That's practically a wire mesh screen.
 
Oil filters, which ones too use, definately not a 2 micron unless you are using it as a by-pass filter only, too much restriction IMO, stick with the application
listed for your vehicle, and as most of us do, just change it often and you will not have any problems. I want to say stock type oil filters are around 10 or so microns.

Ron
 
Amsoil does not offer a " RACING Filter ", though the EAO is top notch. This is based not on Amsoils findings but that of INDEPENDANT STUDIES. Which is why I personally use it. Not from Distributer Hype. Years ago Amsoils filters were not very good. But now Donaldson and Wix manufacture their filters, which both companies have been around awhile and are known for quality products.Im sure we all have had bad experiences with filters. Fram was referrered to as the " Orange can of Death" by many. As technology advances, we see new products. What was good 5 years ago may be considered today as junk. Fram Racing filter's write up is pretty good, but I would like to see the test results on it, which Im sure they are out there. I, like many want the best for my dollar. If Fram is the best Hell yeah I'd switch.
 
I forgot to mention that I do use a Amsoil by-pass filter on my old big block pick up.

Ron
 
It is not "pretty" when a 20 micron filter restricts flow at low RPM and take out a BB turbo.:mad:

I don't know and don't care about "boundary lubrication" and other fancy specs and claims from distributors. In "our performance world", we want what works best for the applications we need to deal with. Untold $$$$ and time have been spent in determining what products do NOT work, and what does work. We have used many different types of products to determine what works best for us.

My personal experience with Amsoil is that I will not use it even if free. I am not trying to "sell" anything here, just answering a simple question, and stating facts from our personal experience in performance applications.:)


You're ignoring the fact that the EAO filters better AND flows better than other filters with inferior filtration. The media is somewhat new and is under license by Donaldson. I'm sure years down the road everyone will be using this media. Right now you can only get it for automotive applications through Amsoil.

I respect the fact that you've been around forever but I doubt your knowlege of lubrication. I'm sure you have many facts to back up why you wouldn't use Amsoil "even if free". Please explain why you would not want better filtration as long as it didn't mean less flow.
 
.............I respect the fact that you've been around forever but I doubt your knowlege of lubrication. I'm sure you have many facts to back up why you wouldn't use Amsoil "even if free". Please explain why you would not want better filtration as long as it didn't mean less flow.

Sorry I came on a little "direct", did not mean to be harsh. My view here is strictly about race applications.

I do not want to use Amsoil, or any other oil or filter, in the race cars as we have had years of "field testing" and want to stay with what is now working fine for us.

Since we change oil after 10 runs or so in the race cars, don't see where better filtration would be any help? We want flow and volume especially at 7000+ RPM. The major contaminant we have is from the leaded race gas and dirt/dust.

For street driven vehicles the situation and conditions are very different. I run synthetic oil in my wife's new SUV and it has shown good results. As far as filter media, your are right, I am not informed on the newer stuff. I would more interested in actual test results under situations like we see at the track that generic tests over a broad spectrum.

Thanks for your input and info. If you can post a link or 2, I would like to learn more about your filters.:)
 
Sorry I came on a little "direct", did not mean to be harsh. My view here is strictly about race applications.

I do not want to use Amsoil, or any other oil or filter, in the race cars as we have had years of "field testing" and want to stay with what is now working fine for us.

Since we change oil after 10 runs or so in the race cars, don't see where better filtration would be any help? We want flow and volume especially at 7000+ RPM. The major contaminant we have is from the leaded race gas and dirt/dust.

For street driven vehicles the situation and conditions are very different. I run synthetic oil in my wife's new SUV and it has shown good results. As far as filter media, your are right, I am not informed on the newer stuff. I would more interested in actual test results under situations like we see at the track that generic tests over a broad spectrum.

Thanks for your input and info. If you can post a link or 2, I would like to learn more about your filters.:)

I completely understand where you're coming from. Why change something that has worked for years.

I was thinking in terms of a 10 second GN that doubles as an occasional driver and may go 3,000 miles between a change. In your application, you could probably get away with no filter. In a race car that gets the oil changed that often, the EAO would be a waste of money.

Personally, I use Amsoil oil and filters in my TL and regular dino oil and the EAO in the GN.

I'll dig up a couple links. I'm not a distributor, but just get a little excited about the new oil filters.
 
I completely understand where you're coming from. Why change something that has worked for years.

I was thinking in terms of a 10 second GN that doubles as an occasional driver and may go 3,000 miles between a change. In your application, you could probably get away with no filter. In a race car that gets the oil changed that often, the EAO would be a waste of money.

Personally, I use Amsoil oil and filters in my TL and regular dino oil and the EAO in the GN.

I'll dig up a couple links. I'm not a distributor, but just get a little excited about the new oil filters.


I ran the Amsoil filter/oil for years back when I drove my GN as a everyday driver. It was in the high 11 second range and I drove around with race gas most of the time. I never had a problem with the filter clogging up and never took out a turbo on that motor EVER. I pulled the engine and checked the bottom end (While changing timing gears/chain) and didn't change the bearings they were perfect. I personally think if you are clogging filters with lead from gas you got bigger problems, like maybe ring seal, but I am not a engine builder or claim to be. I was a dealer for Amsoil also and I think their products are not junk. I talked to Dan today and he said to run Wix filters (My race motor) so I'll just do what he says as usual... :biggrin:
 
Here's two examples from Terry Dyson oil analysis. I can't find the good ones at work but they're saved to my home computer and I'll post them when I get home.

Number 1


Yes... the camparison appeared FUBAR to me at first but if you look at the NAS 1638 Contamination Class Chart it is easier to compare the results.

The new oil sample.... = NAS class 6.
The Fram used sample = NAS class 8.
The EaO used sample.. = NAS class 6.

Nothing wrong with the used oil having the same NAS Class 6 rating as new oil in my opinion!

Number 2

Round two! The fuel dilute increase is probably from extended city driving while Christmas shopping after Thanksgiving as well as a Bio-Plus fuel conditioner clean-up phase (double treat rate) in the last 3000 miles of this OCI.


James, finally results ! Note: because the lab was so happy to get the laser to read they forgot to weigh the filter patch to compare to the other tests. Please do share with my friends at BITOG or elsewhere.

The laser worked on this run so we have actual micronic values compared to the weighed levels from the earlier filters test. This was as standardized as we could get with the particle count capability at hand and for darker motor oils.

From this data the EaO shows it cleaned the oil to VOA levels (possibly better) since oil adds would have activated and filmed/adhered to the engine.

Roughly 3 times less particles in suspension in the RP oil this test. Note lab made mistake on listing scale last time even after I queried so data for all tests is in 100ml scale.

NAS 1638 (1964) probably the best chart to guide. Whatever relative measure the EaO is impressive.

Second remark is that fuels dilute was worse this run so results are biased against EaO. Another reason lower copper in spectral exam indeed was reduced wear particles in suspension.

Test 2 EaO laser micron count oil sample stands at:
>2 - 52249/100ml
>5 - 9843
>15 - 517
>25 - 107
>50 - .7
>100 -.1

At YOUR service, Terry


The term VOA stands for Virgin Oil Analysis.
 
The PF52 is a great filter. Nothing wrong with it. The only reason I brought up Amsoil was someone asked what the best filter was.

I'm ASSuming the orange vs black ADBV is silicone vs rubber? Silicone if using for an extended amount of time. Rubber is fine is you're only running it 3K on an OCI. Rubber tends to harden after a while.

Going from memory from the tests I've seen, M1 was slightly better than K&N and all the rest were roughly tied in filtration. No idea of the flow rates.

I'm surprised no one mentions it here but the UPF52 is an awesome filter. Supposedly runs a media much like the Amsoil filters.
 
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