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Best suspension bang for buck besides wheels/tires?

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"Turbo-T"

V6 on steroids
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
7,393
Been doing some reading....would like to replace my stock suspension components but as I have learned that's going to run me easily north of $1500.

As of now I have the stock 15X7 rims with the stock size 215/65 tire, however the tires are the Michelin Exalto's which are not even a year old. I also have the rear trunk braces and the jounce braces. As far as i know the reat of the suspension is bone stock.

At first I thought maybe polyurethane bushings in the stock control arms would be the best way to go since I've read worn bushings will contribute to a mushy ride....but I believe I read polyurethanes are not as great as everyone thinks? Any truth to this? And that urethane bushings are better? (sorry not sure here..:redface:)

My goal is to make the car more stable while cornering instead of having a ton of body roll. But at the same time not spend a ton in doing so if at all possible.

What about a bigger front and rear sway bar...would that yield me the best bang for the buck for the curves?
 
For sure, sway bars will help with body roll. Poly bushings will help out alot too. The factory ones are wasted by now. The UMI tubular rear control arms are a good bang for the buck too.
 
Maybe i missed it but saw no mention of shocks.
KYB, Bilstien, KONI

I prefer the adjust (single) QA1's but the AFCO'S are good as well.

Get the shocks then add a HR rear sway bar then the front then control arms.
 
I'm not even sure what shocks my car has.

Ditto on the UMI's though I had considered seeing how much less it would cost to fit the stockers with new bushings and then box them.

I did notice in another post that a coil spring upgrade is good too...how often do coil springs wear out?
 
I recently went w/ a new front end rebuild kit, (poly bushings) Kirban's front frame braces, Kirban's connecting front brace, new Michelins, and new Bilsteins.

The car carves the local Mt roads like a slot car. Love it
 
BuickGN29, what brand bushings did you go with/where did you get yours?

So you just did the 4 control arms up front and not the rears?

What sway bars are you running?
 
Get the shocks then add a HR rear sway bar then the front then control arms.

I agree, and springs while youre doing the shocks.

Bilsteins and Eibachs are the best bang4buck, hands down.
Night and day handling difference in the corners and less than 500$.
 
1. UMI rear uppers and lowers.

2. KYB or Bilstein shocks

2. ATR rear swaybar.
 
Replace front swaybar bushings first. Second Shocks a good set not monroe or gariel. 3rd springs, 4th tires a higher speed rated tire like a H, V, Z have stiiffer side walls as you go up in speed ratings and wider, the stock size does not give alot of contact patch. What every you can afford.
 
Replace front swaybar bushings first. Second Shocks a good set not monroe or gariel. 3rd springs, 4th tires a higher speed rated tire like a H, V, Z have stiiffer side walls as you go up in speed ratings and wider, the stock size does not give alot of contact patch. What every you can afford.

+1.......

I'm not a fan of poly bushings at all. I'm also not a fan of UMI control arms because they use poly bushings. They are ok if you already have them but after a while, they will start to make noise. I'd get MOOG problem solver bushings. Keeps a good ride quality and wont make noises. Work with the front swaybar and endlinks. Then shocks, I like Bilsteins. Then better tires. Keep your stock swaybars for now. They actually work pretty well in a basic set up like yours. If you think it is absolutely necessary to change out your rear control arms, go with Hotchkis lowers. These are my favorite. The bushings in them wont make noises like the poly's and are stiff enough to control the car. A lot of guys have problems with their cars handling and instantly spend money on "cool" parts when all they need to do is tune their existing suspensions. Once you get a little more hard core about it, then start buying the "cool" parts and tuning the suspension from there. ------Jeremy
 
BuickGN29, what brand bushings did you go with/where did you get yours?

So you just did the 4 control arms up front and not the rears?

What sway bars are you running?

I was only able to do my front end, as my GN is my daily and I was crunched for time. Did it over a weekend. The rear is all stock except for the 2 Bilsteins.

I'd like to look into the rear X braces and aftermarket rear bars in the future, I just had no time.

I went w/ the GBodyParts front end rebuild kit as I had a bad stock tie rod that needed to be replaced that I noticed when installing the Michelins

Also installed:

1. NAPA part# 10277 - lower ball joints (12 mnth - 12k mile warr)
2. NAPA part# 267-3348 - control arm bushing - upper front (2)
3. NAPA part# 267-3349 " " " - lower front (2)

I'm running the stock front sway so I went with:

1. NAPA part# 265-2177 - sway bar bushings
2. NAPA part# 265-1207 - sway bar rebuild kit (22 pcs)

Hope this helps.
 
Bilstein's all the way IMO ( seemed to make the most dramatic difference in an otherwise stock setup for me ) also, the front braces really stiffened things up!!
 
I was only able to do my front end, as my GN is my daily and I was crunched for time. Did it over a weekend. The rear is all stock except for the 2 Bilsteins.

I'd like to look into the rear X braces and aftermarket rear bars in the future, I just had no time.

I went w/ the GBodyParts front end rebuild kit as I had a bad stock tie rod that needed to be replaced that I noticed when installing the Michelins

Also installed:

1. NAPA part# 10277 - lower ball joints (12 mnth - 12k mile warr)
2. NAPA part# 267-3348 - control arm bushing - upper front (2)
3. NAPA part# 267-3349 " " " - lower front (2)

I'm running the stock front sway so I went with:

1. NAPA part# 265-2177 - sway bar bushings
2. NAPA part# 265-1207 - sway bar rebuild kit (22 pcs)

Hope this helps.


The only parts I will install are NAPAs or Moogs! Good choice!
 
Here's what I did. Not finished yet but getting close. Similar to what everyone suggests but I like to scrounge for cheap barely used parts:biggrin:

1st if you haven't done new poly body bushings, do them before anything. HUGE difference! Got a set of stock boxed uppers and lowers with new bushings cheap off the board and put those on. Put all moog problem solver bushings in front (upper and lower arms and ball joints). Moog drop springs in the front. I love these springs. Still rides like a buick and corners better than it did before with NO front swaybar (gonna put a 3rd gen bar on). This hotlap around town was with monroe shocks and air bags in stock rear springs. I have the bilsteins installed but have yet to test drive it. I haven't got around to doing the rear springs yet because I'm waiting to do the new tank and all that back there in one shot. Can't wait to try it out when I get it ALL done. Can't imagine the look on peoples faces seeing that beat up POS flying down the on-ramp at 80+mph:eek:

I would say the first thing to do would be body mounts and inspecting/replacing front and rear bushings. I highly recommend doing your front uppers right away. They are easy to do. Fun project you can do with your drinkin buddies. Buicks, buds, beer, torches, and the good ole BFH. Sounds like a good time to me
 
Poly Bushings

First upgrade for sure...difference will be night and day difference!
 
Maybe i missed it but saw no mention of shocks.

Well I just found out last night the rear shocks are Monroe Sensatracs. :redface: And I still don't have any idea what front shocks are on the car. So I'll go ahead and chalk up "new shocks".

If I may ask what makes Bilstein shocks so popular?

I was recently reading about this setup. Seems like you get alot for the money.
Edelbrock.com - Suspension - Suspension Kits - GM A/G Body

I asked that same question in another thread I made awhile back and never received an answer. I did see in an edition of Car Craft where they sent someone's 1985 Monte Carlo to Edelbrock and had the $1500 kit put on. They said it made the car handle a lot better.

Replace front swaybar bushings first. Second Shocks a good set not monroe or gariel. 3rd springs....

Thanks I am making a list of this..

I would say the first thing to do would be body mounts and inspecting/replacing front and rear bushings. I highly recommend doing your front uppers right away. They are easy to do

Hhhmm...I would think any of the front control arms would be a bitch to do plus the car will have to re-aligned after wards. I can only hope the little shims don't fall out.

I'd get MOOG problem solver bushings. Keeps a good ride quality and wont make noises. Work with the front swaybar and endlinks. Then shocks, I like Bilsteins. Then better tires. Keep your stock swaybars for now. They actually work pretty well in a basic set up like yours. If you think it is absolutely necessary to change out your rear control arms, go with Hotchkis lowers. These are my favorite. The bushings in them wont make noises like the poly's and are stiff enough to control the car. A lot of guys have problems with their cars handling and instantly spend money on "cool" parts when all they need to do is tune their existing suspensions. Once you get a little more hard core about it, then start buying the "cool" parts and tuning the suspension from there. ------Jeremy

Thanks, and yes this does make sense...in fact due to being on a budget I'd like to replace only what needs replacing...the bushings are obviously one of them.

What are the "problem solver' bushings by Moog? I have so far only found the typical rubber Moog bushings. Is this what you're referring to?

One thing I have noticed is no one has said to go with a larger front sway bar...is the stock front sway bar pretty much adequate?

And why replace the rear sway bar if I may ask?
 
Well I just found out last night the rear shocks are Monroe Sensatracs. :redface: And I still don't have any idea what front shocks are on the car. So I'll go ahead and chalk up "new shocks".

If I may ask what makes Bilstein shocks so popular?



I asked that same question in another thread I made awhile back and never received an answer. I did see in an edition of Car Craft where they sent someone's 1985 Monte Carlo to Edelbrock and had the $1500 kit put on. They said it made the car handle a lot better.



Thanks I am making a list of this..



Hhhmm...I would think any of the front control arms would be a bitch to do plus the car will have to re-aligned after wards. I can only hope the little shims don't fall out.



Thanks, and yes this does make sense...in fact due to being on a budget I'd like to replace only what needs replacing...the bushings are obviously one of them.

What are the "problem solver' bushings by Moog? I have so far only found the typical rubber Moog bushings. Is this what you're referring to?

One thing I have noticed is no one has said to go with a larger front sway bar...is the stock front sway bar pretty much adequate?

And why replace the rear sway bar if I may ask?

The regular Moog you are finding are the Problem Solvers. No need to replace the front or rear swaybars right away, wait until you get the other parts redone first. The stock swaybars are adequate for our cars on a basic set up. Bilsteins are the best shocks out there in my opinion. They also have a lifetime warranty. They seem to give the best ride out of all the shocks I have used. I've used a TON of different shocks on my cars. I actually dont mind the Gabriels, if yours are fairly new, keep them and save the money.

Also are you planning to keep a 215/65 tire on the rear? Might help to step that up a little to a 235/60 for the rear.
 
The order in which you do this isn't really important because there is no order. Pretty much do it all at once. The body mounts would be priority and I'm sure everyone would agree with me. BTW when you have the frame up and body jacked up this would be a good time to get under the car and replace the rear brake hose. The rear suspension can be done piece by piece, so this may be a good place to start. As far as the front goes, shake down the front end. Replace any steering components that are bad. Then, I would pull the upper control arms and put new ball joints and bushings in. Keep track of the shims so you don't have to get an alignment. After this is finished, gather up the rest of your components:shocks, lower ball joints, bushings, springs, and try to track down some spring isolator pads. Do these all at once because you will have to backtrack if you do it any other way. I highly suggest paying someone to do the lower arms when you get them out.

There's nothing wrong with the stock gn stabilizer bar. The iroc/gta bar is slightly bigger and is lighter because it is hollow. I didn't put mine back on just because I knew it was eventually going to come back off anyway.
 
Also are you planning to keep a 215/65 tire on the rear? Might help to step that up a little to a 235/60 for the rear.

Yes I am the tires are fairly new and high performance; they didn't make a 235/60 tire that was also an H rated tire without costing over $400 for a set.
 
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