Best suspension bang for buck besides wheels/tires?

[NEVER ENOUGH]

I asked that same question in another thread I made awhile back and never received an answer. I did see in an edition of Car Craft where they sent someone's 1985 Monte Carlo to Edelbrock and had the $1500 kit put on. They said it made the car handle a lot better.

I'm kind of hoping someone around here posts up they used this system. I'll be in the market for something like it in the future.
Of course by then someone will have a better/new improved kit with all polished billet aluminum parts or something.:biggrin:

 

[BuickGN29]

The only parts I will install are NAPAs or Moogs! Good choice!

Yep, can't go wrong w/ Moog or NAPA in my opinion.

My local NAPA treats me well. I use the 02000 Main St. auto account and get a discount, and they deliver the parts to me.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Something else I forgot to ask...I noticed some of you mentioned I should get some Eibach lowering coils. I understand a lowered car lessens the center of gravity and also a lowered car hugs the road better...which I would guess would mean a lowered car can handle turns better than one not lowered....correct?

But also do the lowering springs also lessen in how much up and down movent the suspension endures during a cornering?

And to those of you who have used the Eibach lowering coils, how many inches does it drop the car?

 

[xcessiv6]

Lower springs do mean lower center of gravity that does mean better handling. New springs are stronger and don't have the rebound of worn out springs. After market lower springs usealy have higher spring rates rich carry the load better IE: 350lbs to 450lbs.

 

[scojack_2001]

Just do what you can afford and leave it at that. I havent spent much on my car but it handles well. I guess it starts with the GTAs that are on it. Also have 245/50 Kumhos for front tires.

All Ive done the front suspension is a 36mm 1LE hollow swaybar with Energy Suspension bushings and endlinks, and KYB GR-2 shocks. It handles well. That and the Kirban braces too, that I had leftover from my T-Type. Original springs and control arm bushings.

Rear has fully boxed stock lowers with parts store rubber bushings, original upper control arms, ATR-style 1.375" swaybar, Kirban cargo coilsprings, dual airbags, and KYB GR-2 as well. Rides on 255/50/16 MT DRs. Car rides nice and cuts high 1.5 60' times at the track. Full weight street car. Havent gotten to the GNX #5 bushings or the others, but I do have the rear seat braces installed.

Hope this helps.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanks. Well so far I have decided to replace the front sway bar bushings both where the bar mounts to the frame and the end links. The shocks will also be replaced.

I noticed someone said an ATR bar. I'll keep my stocker for now since it still works and have been advised to use it, but are we talking an actual bar made by ATR? I know they've been out of business since what...2005? I can only wonder how difficult finding one would be unless it were used.

I also read where a sway bar is essentially a spring that also gets worked...?

Anyone have any before and after pics of their car with stock coils and the Eibach drop coils?

 

[whitecobra98]

i rebuilt my entire front end with Moog problem solver parts, ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings, every available piece..then i picked up Spohn front and rear sway bars with poly bushings, Bilstein shocks all the way around and moog drop springs front and rear...the only thing i havent touched yet are the rear upper and lower control arms..made a huge difference in ride and handling, along with stance...im running 235 60 15's on stock wheels..i still have to do the braces, but even with those, it wouldn't be north of 1500....i can probably dig up the part numbers for the bushings and what not if you need them..good luck on your decision

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

A little late but my .02
On a small budget I did this to my old 1984 T-Top Monte.
Using all stock control arms
KYBs all around
Grease-able poly bushings at the Control arms and sway bars
Hotchkiss drop springs up front
Moog CC springs out back.
And 16 in wheels

I am also going to be doing my Chevelle on a small budget.
So far I have only gotten the KYB shocks and they made an immediate noticeable deference.

I am not selling you KYBs as I am sure that there are much better shocks out there but on a small budget the fit and work much better then anything in their price range.

BTW I had my poly bushings for a long time (about 75K miles) and never one bit of noise. Just take an extra 2 minutes when doing your oil change and grease them up.
A few times I got lazy and skipped greasing them and still didn’t get any noise.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Cool...on the control arm bushings as I have heard, a press is usually required to install them...however is it possible the new bushings can be installed by hand?

 

[regal81455]

Cool...on the control arm bushings as I have heard, a press is usually required to install them...however is it possible the new bushings can be installed by hand?

sure but you'll need the bushing tool, it looks like a funky c-clamp

 

["Turbo-T"]

Is that the one that one of the board vendors here sells that's for removing bushings from the pumpkin? (I forgot who carried it)

 

[regal81455]

no, something like this...

Automotive Service Tool Sets - Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool Repair Ford GM

id probably go like OTC if you can get your hands on them....but Im sure you could go and borrow/rent it from autozone

i would recommend the HR tool for the upper rears though, if your going to be changing those out too...those are a bear even when the rear is sitting on a table....

 

[usetaboost]

I paid a shop to do the ones on my rear end. only cost 30 bucks. I had the rear pulled though

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

no, something like this...

Automotive Service Tool Sets - Upper Control Arm Bushing Removal Tool Repair Ford GM

That’s the tool.
And like some one else said you can rent/borrow it from advance or AutoZone.
I bought mines from E-Bay

 

[maxcom]

I was told the KYBs would allow the car to hook better than the Bilsteins

 

[jdpolzin]

Not true. If you want to get the car to hook and not as worried about street performance, get a set of Lakewood 50/50 and 90/10's. I wont ever run KYB's in my car again. Go with Bilsteins and be done with it.

 

[maxcom]

it was for a street car

 

[jdpolzin]

Go with Bilsteins. KYB's have atendounsy to be stiff. Thats the exact opposite of what you want when your trying to hook your car. You want the car to transfer weight.

 

[scojack_2001]

My car hooks okay with the KYBs apparently. 1.62-1.63 short times at Cecil yesterday on a 255/50/16 MT DR. Full weight street car with everything.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Replace front swaybar bushings first.

I'd get MOOG problem solver bushings. Keeps a good ride quality and wont make noises. Work with the front swaybar and endlinks.

Thanks. Today I have decided to tackle replacing the end links and sway bar to frame bushings with Moog K5254 end links and Moog K5248 frame mount bushings.

Now....big question...is it easier to undo the end links and frame mount bushings with the car sitting on the ground or jacked in the air?

I currently have the car in the air and the frame mount bushing bolts are a bit of a pita to get out.