Best way to put some boom boom in the TR?

[Intercooler]

I guess I got spoiled because I have had systems in my last three vehicles including my GN that burned in a garage fire. In the GN I only had a DEI amp and a single 10" Image Dynamics sub with all the factory speakers upgraded.
I want to do the T up now. It also has upgraded speakers from factory (all Infinity) and the rears are adapted 6"x 9". The GN sounded decent but much of the sound was lost in the trunk and some rattling was experienced. Is their a way to put 8's near the rear seats in those panels? Or could I put two 12's in the trunk and port it through the package tray to the inside? I will use dynomat on the trunk this time if it helps. What is the best way to get good boom without all the rattle? TIA

 

[GNandTTA]

The 8's in the panel will not yield much deep bass. They are too close to you. Plus you would need to seal off the cavity to get good response and keep the 8's from destroying themselves. Basically you want bass in the trunk. That is the only way you will hear true deep bass. Bass response is simple physics. The deeper the bass the longer the wavelengths are. So having the speakers aimed at the trunk and bouncing of the back will produce longer wavelengths and thus give DEEPER bass then any other way in a GN. As far as the rattles, remember these are GM cars not Hondas. Adjusting the rubber stoppers on the trunk so it pulls the lid down a little further and applying caulk inside the trunk lid supports should help get rid of most of the rattles. Plus the liscence plate tends to rattle often. I did the forementioned and have eliminated 95% of the rattles.

 

[Intercooler]

Thanks for the reply. This section moves kind of slow. What about whether to use two 10's, 12's or 15's? What type of subs and amp? Think porting the box to the inside through the package tray works best? Ported or unported box? Would a single HCCA Orion be killer?

 

[SilverSleeper]

Its been slow lately, I dont know why though...?
I Havent been around much because Ive been sick on and off, but I have no clue where everyone else has been.

To help you out, forget 15's. They will need such a huge box that you probably wouldnt want to give up the entire trunk for.
12's are a good compromise, 10's even better if you are concerned about weight.
Building a ported box is not for the beginner. Get the dimensions and/or port size calculations wrong, and it may sound like crap.

A lot of your sub design depends on what you like to listen to. Ported boxes are more efficient in a narrow bandwidth. The boxes also typically need to be bigger for a ported type. Also it is easier to overdrive subs in a ported box, so you will want to match your subs to your amp if going that direction.

I just happen to prefer a sealed box, on the bit larger side, with subs facing forward and a subsonic filter. Of course, I dont really care for "boomy" bass, either. So what you do with your system has a lot to do with your music tastes.

As for loosing the rattles, GNandTTA is right about the stops and the lid. What I did for my license plate, is to dampen the back of the holder. I also did dampen behind the taillights, since they might buzz a little. One thing that might surprise you, is the wiring for the trunk light. It is easily going to buzz against the lid and drive you nuts. I filled the passages around it with expanding foam to keep it in place.

If you really want to port your box through the deck, Audiowizard is the one to ask. He has pictures of his install, and can probably tell you more about it.

 

[darkfa8]

1 Adire Audio Brahma 10" or 12" sub in a sealed enclosure

1 Braxx amp

this combination could potentially unlatch your rear deck lid for you lol , or eject it off the car

 

[GNandTTA]

this combination could potentially unlatch your rear deck lid

Never heard of these before. Looked at the specs and yes they can handle alot of power but in an extremely small box - which will IMO sound like sh*t. No deep bass. You'll get a bunch of boom (60 -100 hz), if that is what you are after. But to get any deep (30 - 40 hz) response the recommended box size gets real big (as it should) and the displacement power handeling goes way down (as it should). So for true sub bass these will not handle much more power than a good comparatively sized woofer (Rockford Punch, Kicker, Orion, etc)