Best way to remove DS header
- Thread starter Sweet6
- Start date
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Loosen driver side tire bolts.
Jack up the front of the car.
Take off DS tire.
Take off the cross over pipe.
Unbolt the oil dip stick and pull it out. It is held in with RTV at the base, clean the area around the base before removing so nothing gets into the pan.
With attachments and swivels you should be able to access almost all the DS header bolts through the fender. I think the last two you have to access through the x-over pipe area.
Remove all the support brackets that mount the accessories, then un bolt the header.
Jack up the front of the car.
Take off DS tire.
Take off the cross over pipe.
Unbolt the oil dip stick and pull it out. It is held in with RTV at the base, clean the area around the base before removing so nothing gets into the pan.
With attachments and swivels you should be able to access almost all the DS header bolts through the fender. I think the last two you have to access through the x-over pipe area.
Remove all the support brackets that mount the accessories, then un bolt the header.
eiuskoalman
New Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 162
i agree with scott, tire removal not necessary (may make the job easier????). get the crossover bolts from under the car then pull the header bolts from above. the header should slip right out from above. < 1 hour even the first time. good luck, aaron
eiuskoalman
New Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
- Messages
- 162
pull it out from the top
If you're like me, and always looking for the easiest method, then my advice:
Get the front of the car up on jack stands (fairly high) to allow plenty of room to move around underneath and get good leverage for removing/loosening the crossover bolts. Loosen passenger side, remove driver's side so the crossover pipe can be moved around some.
Remove the tire/wheel!!!
I use a really long extension to reach some of the bolts through the fender well (why it's easier without the tire to get in the way).
Remove the two alternator brakets, and dipstick tube.
The rear bolts will likely need a box end wrench, and I get the rear lower one from under the car.
Keep track of where the bolts came from
Odly enough, the nuts that hold the dipstick tube, and the alternator brackets to the studs are 13mm, but the studs themselves are 9/16. Go figure.
Hint: Gear Wrenches (or Sears equivalent) are the best investment I've made in years!
Get the front of the car up on jack stands (fairly high) to allow plenty of room to move around underneath and get good leverage for removing/loosening the crossover bolts. Loosen passenger side, remove driver's side so the crossover pipe can be moved around some.
Remove the tire/wheel!!!
I use a really long extension to reach some of the bolts through the fender well (why it's easier without the tire to get in the way).
Remove the two alternator brakets, and dipstick tube.
The rear bolts will likely need a box end wrench, and I get the rear lower one from under the car.
Keep track of where the bolts came from
Odly enough, the nuts that hold the dipstick tube, and the alternator brackets to the studs are 13mm, but the studs themselves are 9/16. Go figure.
Hint: Gear Wrenches (or Sears equivalent) are the best investment I've made in years!
TheDoughboy
Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2002
- Messages
- 327
I keep the tire on , jacked up the drivers side. Only removed the drivers side cross over bolts. I took it out thru the top. I also used a 24" long, 3/8" extension with a u-joint for the header bolts. 25 mins or less and it's out.
Ron
Ron
