25 yrs exp ask me bro my 02
zero guage is all you need, you first need to do a BIG THREE UP GRADE UNDER HOOD, AND YOU BOYS DONT LIKE CHANGING THINGS UNDER THE HOOD, START BY ZERO GUAGE FROM ALTERNATOR BACK TO BATTERY MORE JUICE YOU RETURN MORE GOES OUT, THEN ZERO FROM BATTERY BACK OVER TO THE INTAKE, YOUR BASIC GROUND WHICH ON STOCK CARS IS LIKE 8 GUAGE, SAME PRICIPAL AS POWER WIRE, AND THEN UP GRADE THE GROUND TO CHASIS WIRE WITH ZERO GUAGE, DO HOMEWORK THIS IS CALLED THE BIG THREE UP GRADE, WILL MINIMIZE YOUR LIGHT DIME PROBLEMS AND HELP SAVE AN ALTERNATOR OR TWO, AND OF COURSE YOUR ZERO GUAGE FROM BATTERY TO YOUR DISTRIBUTION BLOCK IN MY CASE ITS DIGITAL DUAL IN ZERO IN AND 4 FOUR GAUGE OUT, PRINCIPAL IS ZERO BACK AS CLOSE TO AMPS AS POSSIBLE AND OUT OF DISTRIBUTION BLOCK FOUR GAGE NO LONGER THEN 3 OR 4 FOOT IF SET UP PROPERLY AND THEN I OVER KILL CAUSE I HAVE THREE 12W7 JL AUDIO I USE 8 GUAGE OUT OF AMPS INTO SUBS. 18 GUAGE ON COMPONENTS IS MORE THEN FINE AND EASLY CONCEALED. IF YOU FOLLOW THOSE BASIC TIPS THEY ARE EXSPENSIVE TIPS BUT SO IS YOUR CAR BURNING DOWN TO THE GROUND AND DONT FORGET THE INLINE FUSE WITHING 3 FOOT OF BATTERY AND MY DIGITAL DISTRIBUTION BLOCK HAS ONE FUSE FOR EACH OUTLET. AGAIN OVER KILL BUT ISNT THAT WHAT WERE DOING TO THESE CARS ANY HOW, NOW THIS IS ONLY NECESSARY IF YOUR INTO THE 2,000 WATT OR MORE CATAGORY WHICH MOST OF YOU GUYS ARENT THERE CAUSE YOU ARE ABOUT LIGHTING THE CAR UP FOR SPEED NOT WEIGHING IT DOWN WITH BEET BUT THATS THE BEST WAY TO GO ABOUT IT IF OUR A SERIOUS CAR STEREO MANIC, THEN A SEPERATE POWER GROUND FUSE BLOCK RAN TO REAR FOR YOUR IN CAR NEON AND IN CAR MONITORS I HAVE IN DASH DVD AND 7 7 INCH MONITORS AND ONE 7 INCH FLIP DOWN IN TOTAL THREE 1000/1V2 JL AUDIO AMPS THREE 12W7 SUBS TWO SETS OF DIAMOND AUDIO COMPONENTS AND ONE ART SERIES PRECISION POWER A600.2 FOR MY MIDS AND HIGHS,
let me break this down for you as some of the advice you got is flawed in my opinion. but that's just my 02 not knocking some of you guys just wanted to let you know where your wrong or maybe tweak what your thoughts are on this. not trying to offend anyone so please no pissing match needed. if you want to match skills then show me some credentials. what school you went to and how long you've been installing. me, 40 yrs old, installing since i was 15, hangaround at a local audio shop and learned asking ?'s and went from there. and chapparal i'm not picking on you i just want to add to what you said and correct a few things.
amp kits are plentyful in brand, don't go to a retail shop, a local flea market has several people who'll have an amp kit go with 0 gauge or odd gauge. you can use middle of the road name brand and should be under 100 easily. connect your power directly to your battery, use the split loom under the hood so the heat doesn't kill your wire blowing anything from your computer to all car audio equip. please zip tie it and use your egg shaped fuse holder under the hood, don't connect any wire to your altenator to your battery, it'll only give you feedback to your amp. it'll sound like your engine is coming through your speakers, like that'll add some horses to your car. leave that alone. now powering your amp you can add a high output altenator but it's up to you. another way around this is a capacitor. this is an external battery that you trunk mount by your amp and fused distribution block and ground distribution block. this will keep your amp from asking for power that isn't there, hard to deliver all that power from the front to the back of the car. this will kill your speakers with distortion. i don't care if you have 2000 watt speakers you'll have a 2000 watt paperweight if you don't use one on a system this big and yes you will kill batteries and alternators if you don't use one and capacitors are only 100 so well worth it TRUST ME ON THIS. consider it a clogged fuel line while your running your car hard, it'll stall and that's what your amp will do. A cap will keep this from happening.
now fuses 60 amp AGU by the battery under the hood, and start with a 30 amp and if it goes out use a 50 in the trunk distribution block. I doubt you'll blow a 30 amp agu fuse by your amp but you never know the power block needs to be fused and you can buy 2-4 output fused blocks. now if your installing this please make sure you use all the crimp fittings and these are monsters that you'll need to use a hammer to bite on your wires. strip back 2 inches and secure them. ground wire needs to be the same size as your power to and from amp, cap, and so on. you can run 4 gauge if your amp has a big enough receptical to accept it. i'm sure it does as memphis is a great brand. distribution blocks and i said 2, one for power one for ground also need to be mounted in trunk after the cap and before the amps. chaparal is correct but i'd keep my ground to about 1.5 ft, the shorter the better but leave yourself some room to be able to zip tie all the wires together it just makes the install look better.
almost done, when your grounding your amp sand down the area your going to ground to, drill the hole through and use a nut blot and a few washers and locking washers. sand down to bare metal where the ground goes both sides if possible. i know i went well into the install but this is what i would do and do it once and your good for awhile. another thing you may want to do is secure your box with some heavy duty L brackets that'll keep it in it's place.
look guys it's pretty easy to do all this and i've see everything from welding wires to just about anything you can think of even a coaxial cable for power. i couldn't believe my eyes. seen burned carpets where the power wire was grounded out because some genius drilled through his hot power wire and it instantly got so hot the coating melted off the wire and started a small fire. this can engulf your car quickly and you don't need one of those huge 100 watt fuses that looks like compressed chewing tobacco. you won't blow them but you can burn your car down to a shell.
hope this helps and anyone with simular experiance of have any other ?'s is more then welcome to ask, i know this stuff and can usually do an install like this within 2-3 hours tops. just take your time if your installing it yourself, don't take any shortcuts and don't use pieces of wire and tape them up or anything. when you pull the wire through your firewall make sure you don't strip it down when pulling it through, unless you want to buy another one. i'd make a amp rack outta some MDF wood or something simular and carpet it, but a couple of cheap port hole so you can hide your wire and it'll look great. have patience and use a 12 volt test light to make sure you have power and don't connect your battery or remote wire until your nearly finished. always use crimp ends and give them a slight tug to make sure you dont have a loose wire.
my question for you is what ohm speaker are you using and what ohm load are you shooting for? the lower the ohm the more power your putting out but it'll also give you less amp time if your running a 1 ohm load or 1/2 ohm load. this can cause your amp to give out if you run it hard then it shuts down and you keep it up. amps do have heat sinks but best way to run it is adjust it to where you listen to your system and listen for any distortion. your subs shouldn't be singing to you the words of a song, it's mainly for bass so adjust the frequency to about the middle or more bass. this will help you keep your speakers and also don't run your gain all the way up, it'll also kill your amp and speakers if it's not tuned right. i've seen this many times and i've been in arguements and damn near fights with customers who think they are right and then find out different. if you think the customer is right, fry something and try and get it replaced if you don't buy that freaking extended warranty. never know you may be using it alot if you don't heed my warning.