Big problem!
- Thread starter Swede2
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I would start with a real comp test, NOT a "finger" test. Or do a leak down test if you got the equipment for that.
Go to Biltema and buy a simple comp test gauge if you don't own one. Remove all the plugs before you start, it saves some battery power.
Go to Biltema and buy a simple comp test gauge if you don't own one. Remove all the plugs before you start, it saves some battery power.
Reset the computer and fire the car up. If it shuts down within a few seconds its something else.
The way you describe the condition it sounds like a MAF problem. I know you replaced it, but wondering if the plug to it got damaged, or an air leak was created somewhere. If you unplug the MAF and start it, the condition should get worse. If it stays the same.. then look at the wiring to the MAF.
Unless you cracked the IC and its leaking a lot of air.
See the air from the MAF all the way to the O2 sensor is a closed system. Any air breach can cuase a poorly running car. Hard to say, but another test is to connect the MAF rite to the throttle body bypassing the turbo and IC and seeing how it runs. This requires getting creative with hoses to adapt the MAF to the TB.
Doing breathers wont cuase your problem. Cant. But you did move the MAF around in the process of doing what your doing.
HTH
The way you describe the condition it sounds like a MAF problem. I know you replaced it, but wondering if the plug to it got damaged, or an air leak was created somewhere. If you unplug the MAF and start it, the condition should get worse. If it stays the same.. then look at the wiring to the MAF.
Unless you cracked the IC and its leaking a lot of air.
See the air from the MAF all the way to the O2 sensor is a closed system. Any air breach can cuase a poorly running car. Hard to say, but another test is to connect the MAF rite to the throttle body bypassing the turbo and IC and seeing how it runs. This requires getting creative with hoses to adapt the MAF to the TB.
Doing breathers wont cuase your problem. Cant. But you did move the MAF around in the process of doing what your doing.
HTH
Lunkan said:
To take bugs and stuff away... and some oil and dust...
I guess it was a stupid thing to do. But if I broke the IC, then I always can see something positive in this... a new learning experience... and will never do the same thing again
I shall not tune cars, thats one thing that is sure!
Daniel
Swede2 said:
Daniel
The black soot is from running pig rich the water is normal condinsate. the soot mixes with the water that condenses in the muffler then gets blown out when the car is started. I have had this on a couple of cars (not TTA's)when the MAF was bad. Also on my TTA years ago with a stock FPR that was crushed down by the previous owner to yeild 50 psi with vac off.
HTH
Lunkan said:
Its a good thing to clean out the IC, I have learnd that anyway. In my old Audi S2 it made a difference. But in that IC I "found" some oil as well..
Before I put my crappy TTA together again I will clean everything.. but it will probably never ever start again anyway.
Swede2 said:To take bugs and stuff away... and some oil and dust...
I guess it was a stupid thing to do. But if I broke the IC, then I always can see something positive in this... a new learning experience... and will never do the same thing again
I shall not tune cars, thats one thing that is sure!
Daniel
Of course you should keep up the work , tuning/styling or what ever.. don´t be a lame stock driver that leaves all the work to the car repair shop! (damn my English sucks!)
And if your IC broke I have a stock one (with some other neck on) for sale - cheap. They are not that attractive anyway.
trading t/a
I'm Angry!!!!!
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- Aug 6, 2001
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- 1,120
Do what Razor said bypass your induction system and put the maf directly to the TB with it plugged in. If it still runs like crap you've eliminated one portion of the equation.
Also check the maf wiring connector sometime the pins will pull out slightly and will not connect.
Also check the maf wiring connector sometime the pins will pull out slightly and will not connect.
melvin said:Its a good thing to clean out the IC, I have learnd that anyway. In my old Audi S2 it made a difference. But in that IC I "found" some oil as well..
Before I put my crappy TTA together again I will clean everything.. but it will probably never ever start again anyway.
Yes, but I don´t think You found that oil on the OUTSIDE!?
Have You got the HG´s yet Melvin? Now put that POS together, I want to see some nice numbers from You.
Razor said:
Thanks Julio! I just did this test and the car runs great, no hesitation like before when I push the acceleration pedal. Feels great that it probably not is a head gasket faliure. So... I think I pressurizised the IC to hard and that its leaking a lot of air right now.
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions, I will let you know when I am out on the streets again... (if it is the ic, then it shall be pretty soon.)
Daniel
72firebird
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- May 18, 2004
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- 1,327
Swede2 said:
Take the IC out again and take it to a local radiator shop. Have it pressure tested and if money is tight and you don't want to buy a new IC you can have them fix any leaks if they find any. It shouldn't cost very much to have them pressure test it and should only take them a few minutes. This will definatley answer your question whether or not it's the IC or not.
Hey, I had this same exact problem once, almost took the whole car back apart, turns out it was th Intake Plenum Gasket had a HAIRLINE Crack in it..only found it by having one person keep it running, and the other spraying Carb cleaner around the Intake, when we hit the leak area the RPM's would take off...have you done this test yet????
Ok, I will make this thread alive again...
I bought a GN IC, and got it last friday. It was full of oil so I cleaned it inside with gasoline. I didnt touch the outside of the IC, since I didnt want to make the same mistake as on my stock IC.
I didnt leak test it before I put in it, and now I have the same problem as before. The o2:s are in the 820-900 during normal cruise and idle, I cant get any boost pressure up, the car struggles as soon as I hit the pedal. The BLMS are 110 at idle...
Now... if it is the IC that is leaking again... then tell me if I doing wrong when I was out the ic with gasoline... I just put it in there and slush around, no high pressure this time
I will check the IC for leaks and get back here. I am tired on this **** now, I will not be able to drive it before the winter comes
And I dont want to buy a new IC (if that is the problem) cause how can I know that it is a functional IC I buy... The only place I can get a stock one is in usa.
Daniel
I bought a GN IC, and got it last friday. It was full of oil so I cleaned it inside with gasoline. I didnt touch the outside of the IC, since I didnt want to make the same mistake as on my stock IC.
I didnt leak test it before I put in it, and now I have the same problem as before. The o2:s are in the 820-900 during normal cruise and idle, I cant get any boost pressure up, the car struggles as soon as I hit the pedal. The BLMS are 110 at idle...
Now... if it is the IC that is leaking again... then tell me if I doing wrong when I was out the ic with gasoline... I just put it in there and slush around, no high pressure this time
I will check the IC for leaks and get back here. I am tired on this **** now, I will not be able to drive it before the winter comes
And I dont want to buy a new IC (if that is the problem) cause how can I know that it is a functional IC I buy... The only place I can get a stock one is in usa.
Daniel
