Blown head gaskets....What next?

[Pronto]

ALL plastic gears I've seen have chipped teeth and cracks in the body. None of them had over 80k miles. The worst one was down to nubs and the pieces were all stuck to the oil pick up. IMHO I would avoid the stock style.

 

[87WE4!!]

There's a lot of free HP bowl porting the heads.

If you cut the exhaust guides for seals, you need to replace the exhaust valves to get rid of the oil step on the stockers. If the seats are recessed, they'll need new seats installed. If the intake seats are recessed, a set of OS Ferras will get you back out to fresh meat.

On the intake gasket, don't use the one that's called for. Get the one that's missing the hole for the EGR port. That way exhaust can't even get to the intake to leak at one of those goofy block off plates.

On your timing chain, I'd go back with a stock set. Granted they're 'shitty plastic covered aluminium, but they last 125,000 miles or 30 years, which ever comes first. While the timing cover is off find the article I wrote with the oil mods and do those for more free upgrades.

Just my opinion. Take it for what it’s worth to you. Not trying to step on anyone’s toes.
I bought my car in February of 1987. By June of 1989 I had a no strat. Towed it to the dealer. Did a work order. I was told that I needed my timing chain and sprocket replaced. And my oil pan cleaned. Now I wasn’t the gifted mechanic I am today lol. But if I were to put 2+2 together I would say that plastic had broke off and landed in my oil pan. But I didn’t care as long as it was covered by them. And I never beat on the car. Back then driving that car was all about the tinted windows, blasting the Freestyle music , and just cruising up and down Cross Bay Blvd, 86st, Frances lewis Blvd , and Deer park ave. None of us kids cared about speed back then. It was about looking good behind the wheel.
But I’m in the middle of changing my cam and I see they put that same plastic crap on again when they fixed it 29 years ago. But this time I’m going double roller chain.

 

[mommasGN]

Just my opinion. Take it for what it’s worth to you. Not trying to step on anyone’s toes.
I bought my car in February of 1987. By June of 1989 I had a no strat. Towed it to the dealer. Did a work order. I was told that I needed my timing chain and sprocket replaced. And my oil pan cleaned. Now I wasn’t the gifted mechanic I am today lol. But if I were to put 2+2 together I would say that plastic had broke off and landed in my oil pan. But I didn’t care as long as it was covered by them. And I never beat on the car. Back then driving that car was all about the tinted windows, blasting the Freestyle music , and just cruising up and down Cross Bay Blvd, 86st, Frances lewis Blvd , and Deer park ave. None of us kids cared about speed back then. It was about looking good behind the wheel.
But I’m in the middle of changing my cam and I see they put that same plastic crap on again when they fixed it 29 years ago. But this time I’m going double roller chain.

Using the search function....Iv'e read hundreds of threads on this topic. Most disagreed topic on the forums

 

[jasjamz]

I agree with the bowl porting the heads. I put some on a car about two years ago and a 212/212 roller with a 2800 stall. On street tires at 13 psi its a ball of fun with very little fear of engine damage. At 17 psi its a pedal fest so its locked at 15psi. The owner is heavy on the right pedal and two year later it hasnt missed a beat. The reason I did the 212 cam is because it gives no reason to go back in the short block. Double roller chains are what I use. I hate pulling front covers in the car so i minimize the reason to do so while the engine is out.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[mommasGN]

There's a lot of free HP bowl porting the heads.

If you cut the exhaust guides for seals, you need to replace the exhaust valves to get rid of the oil step on the stockers. If the seats are recessed, they'll need new seats installed. If the intake seats are recessed, a set of OS Ferras will get you back out to fresh meat.

On the intake gasket, don't use the one that's called for. Get the one that's missing the hole for the EGR port. That way exhaust can't even get to the intake to leak at one of those goofy block off plates.

On your timing chain, I'd go back with a stock set. Granted they're 'shitty plastic covered aluminium, but they last 125,000 miles or 30 years, which ever comes first. While the timing cover is off find the article I wrote with the oil mods and do those for more free upgrades.

Hey earl...Got the link for your oil pump mod? I cant find it. Do you offer this service for people?

 

[mommasGN]

I will be putting this thing back together soon. Turns out, I have a HV oil pump kit installed. Should I go back with that or do the oil pump mods on a stock re-build kit?

 

[Turbo Archie]

You should do the cover mods regardless of your pump..

 

[earlbrown]

....and ditch that HV pump.

 

[TexasT]

Hey earl...Got the link for your oil pump mod? I cant find it. Do you offer this service for people?

https://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/buick-v6-turbo-tech/39169-how-build-front-cover-oil-pump.html

 

[ttypewhite]

If money is tight. Get a set of Felpro or Cometic head gaskets, and send the heads out to be checked for straightness and a valve job /spring check. Leave everything else alone. Eye's on the prize, you can get out of control really quick if you pull the front cover or oil pan... If it ain't broke, don't fix it. These cars can be extremely fun, but your also at a point that can have you losing your shit real quick. Fix the head gasket and put her back together again. It would be more cost effective to build another shortblock on the side the way you want to when time and money spares. Then do a re and re in the winter of another year to maximize any down time.
I would how ever probe to find the reason why the head gasket let go as well to ensure that this won't happen again the next time you go under boost. It would be a good idea to get your injectors cleaned and flowed , replace your fuel filter and check the strength of your fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator to make sure it's doing exactly what it's supposed to do. Then get it tuned in the spring when it's back on the road.