bms hub

[9secWH1]

i currently have a BMS hub installed on my engine, and was wondering would it be a problem on a street car. 95% street driving. i dont plan on really winding it out, maybe 6500-7k

Thanks
Steve

 

[Squid4life]

I was anxiously awaiting an answer to this question as well since I have a BMS hub I was planning on running. I can't see your RPM being an issue, these motors are spun much higher than that in their original NA versions and Indy Lights I would bet. Is the RPM the only concern? Or overall longevity for many miles being driven added to it? I can't see it being a weak link, but hopefully someone with more experience will post up. Also, if the BMS is not a best choice to run, what is?

 

[278cikiller]

I have had one on my stage II motor for the pass 5 years and it a street car with no problems.

 

[Squid4life]

Cool, that's what we need to hear! Thanks brother!

 

[9secWH1]

278cikiller
Bms hub
I have had one on my stage II motor for the pass 5 years and it a street car with no problems.

just out of curiosity how many miles have you put on it in that amount of time.

Squid4life I was anxiously awaiting an answer to this question as well since I have a BMS hub I was planning on running. I can't see your RPM being an issue, these motors are spun much higher than that in their original NA versions and Indy Lights I would bet. Is the RPM the only concern? Or overall longevity for many miles being driven added to it? I can't see it being a weak link, but hopefully someone with more experience will post up. Also, if the BMS is not a best choice to run, what is?

if not the BMS, i would run the BHJ balancer.

Steve

 

[278cikiller]

Bmh

just out of curiosity how many miles have you put on it in that amount of time.


if not the BMS, i would run the BHJ balancer.

Steve

this is only a weekend car i would say 30,000 km in 5 years.

 

[Squid4life]

Quick question about the BMS hub... quick look at it shows it is a diff diameter than a stock hub and the windows and tabs are spaced differently than the stocker. For those running crank/ cam sensors still, do you just have to change the sensor location and the bms hub works like normal?

 

[278cikiller]

Quick question about the BMS hub... quick look at it shows it is a diff diameter than a stock hub and the windows and tabs are spaced differently than the stocker. For those running crank/ cam sensors still, do you just have to change the sensor location and the bms hub works like normal?

My hub does not slide fully on the crank its a 120 tho. out more i had to shim the crank sensor out 120 tho to meet the pully, the bracket that holds your power streeing pump and the air condtion and alternator you have to do the same for it to line up.

 

[Squid4life]

That makes sense. I was looking over some parts before I start mock up and noticed the BMS hub was a different diameter, with the tabs in different locations, but "symetrically similar" if that makes sense. Just looks like the crank sensor would need to be moved in towards crank centerline, but also .120 forward with the whole on center offset.j

Thanks for the reply brother.

 

[LOT]

A little math

Quick question about the BMS hub... quick look at it shows it is a diff diameter than a stock hub and the windows and tabs are spaced differently than the stocker. For those running crank/ cam sensors still, do you just have to change the sensor location and the bms hub works like normal?

I run one. If I remember correctly I have my sensor in the outer dia. Do the math and see what distance 25 degrees comes out to --I seem to remember 7/8 in. from TDC mark. I fabbed a strip of steel to replace my stock timing marker. Bent it so it comes down to almost touch the hub. You will need it to set cam sensor. I had engine out--put front cover on--bring #1 to TDC--slid hub on and set new pointer to TDC on hub. Piece of cake.

 

[Squid4life]

Cool, much appreciated!