Body mount s

[belsie]

Replacing all body mounts and 2 just behind rear wheels are rusted and the nut end is just spinning, are these accessible by cutting thru trunk above mount area? Also drivers rear 1/4 window area moun is loose, is this tackled by removing rear seat & panels?
Any tricks or better methods out there?? Any hints or advice is appreciated!!

 

[Heisenberg]

Join the club.

It aint pretty. This was one poor idea of a design for those three places.
I made two cardboard templates that kind of identify the general location of the cage nuts - so someone could core out a 1-2" or so sized hole, do the spot repair, then install a body plug
if you need copies of those templates - I could trace them out on paper and send them to you.

I actually use these templates when replacing those bolts on other Regals - where I first drill a small hole, 1/4" or so - so that I can lather PB Blaster in there prior to attempting to break them loose.
Doesn't always work - but it helps.
Then plug those small holes with a small body plug.
In your case - you're too far gone - you've spun the cage nuts.

See pics
I think Charlie knows a guy who does the cage nut retrofits.
He can say.

 

[Heisenberg]

Also drivers rear 1/4 window area moun is loose, is this tackled by removing rear seat & panels?
Any tricks or better methods out there?? Any hints or advice is appreciated!!

For that one - same rules apply.
It too is "hidden" by the floorpan.
But for that one, since it is near the seat belt bucket - from the inside - you can then cut the body on three sides - bend that flap up, do the spot repair, fold it back down, tack weld and seam seal.
Or core a 1-2" hole and put in a body plug as well.

For this one - It is easier to identify its location - just put a piece of masking tape somewhere on the rocker - strictly for reference.
Then measure to your body bolt
Repeat process - but on the inside of the car.
It sits back about - what a couple of inches or so.
Easy to see once you're there.

Of course, you're going to have to remove the rear seat, the quarter panel interior trim, sill plate, fold back your carpet. Etc.

But it all still sucks to have to do just to replace body bolts.

 

[Heisenberg]

The diagram for body mounts - calling out their exact name and number
In my pics - I just called them 1 thru whatever - but I should have labeled them to what they really are
I was being stupid that day!

 

[charlief1]

There's a guy in Canada that makes replacements for the body part of the mount. I had a set here that went to Norway so a friend could fix his car. PM Futten and I'm sure he can tell you who it is that's making them.

 

[Vince13]

Conrad Lozier is the guy I got mine from.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/conradlozier/

 

[Heisenberg]

Conrad Lozier is the guy I got mine from.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/conradlozier/

Thank you for that link.
Very informative.
He looks like he knows his G-body frames that's for sure.
Talk about a niche of a niche!

If you have any pictures or a link to your repairs - I'm sure others would benefit.

I must say that I wasn't expecting it to appear to be such a significant part - and what looks to be a good bit of work to install.
I guess my mind was thinking some little special cage nuts or something.
Scary thought to have to cut those pieces out of the body - and then reweld the new pieces back in.
That's in the "major" category I think.

 

[Vince13]

I lifted the body off the frame and replaced both frame rails from a donor car. The body mounts behind the rear tires were gone along with the rails. I only have pictures of the frame rails before and after. The body mounts from Conrad were nice pieces, fit like a glove and were a heavier gauge metal than the body giving you something to direct the heat at when welding them in.

The mounts were less than $20 each ( 5 years ago). Hopefully he is still doing them.

I used large steel washers to fix up the mount holes in the donor frame rails, even those were starting to get a little thin.

I did this all in a single car garage in the middle of winter, it took some planning but it was a blast. I never had a winter go by so quickly.

 

[Bigjsn250]

Great info in this thread, thanks to you guys for the taking the time to reply.

 

[Heisenberg]

I lifted the body off the frame and replaced both frame rails from a donor car. The body mounts behind the rear tires were gone along with the rails. I only have pictures of the frame rails before and after. The body mounts from Conrad were nice pieces, fit like a glove and were a heavier gauge metal than the body giving you something to direct the heat at when welding them in.

The mounts were less than $20 each ( 5 years ago). Hopefully he is still doing them.

I used large steel washers to fix up the mount holes in the donor frame rails, even those were starting to get a little thin.

I did this all in a single car garage in the middle of winter, it took some planning but it was a blast. I never had a winter go by so quickly.


View attachment 210619 View attachment 210620 View attachment 210623

Looks like a WE4

 

[belsie]

Join the club.

It aint pretty. This was one poor idea of a design for those three places.
I made two cardboard templates that kind of identify the general location of the cage nuts - so someone could core out a 1-2" or so sized hole, do the spot repair, then install a body plug
if you need copies of those templates - I could trace them out on paper and send them to you.

I actually use these templates when replacing those bolts on other Regals - where I first drill a small hole, 1/4" or so - so that I can lather PB Blaster in there prior to attempting to break them loose.
Doesn't always work - but it helps.
Then plug those small holes with a small body plug.
In your case - you're too far gone - you've spun the cage nuts.

See pics
I think Charlie knows a guy who does the cage nut retrofits.
He can say.

Thanks for the great pics, my frame is solid but the area as you show is similar to yours!!

 

[belsie]

Thanks everyone, I see the common weakness and will probably just fish plate the bolt hole area and go with new bolts and locknuts since area is opened up.