Bone stock DYNO results inside

[chicagoTTA]

Hey all!

I just took my beast to the local speed shop.

BONE STOCK = no chips, no tweaks... nada.

243 HP
312 TQ

With the addition of a chip (unknown, but has 18* timing)

278 HP
379 TQ

As soon as I can find a scanner, I will scan and post.

I saw that a lot of people wondered, and now we know!

I thought I heard rumors that it was over 300 RWHP bone stock. I obviously disagree... maybe those cars had a 'few' minor mods eh??

As I do little mods, I will dyno each part. THDP is a good one to prove #s for...

I always wanted to know what an exhaust would do... and what a THDP would do (each one dyno'd individually)...

Whaddaya think?

 

[Lee_Burough]

The 301 RWHP on the GM dyno was in 1988 or 89....

That's an awesome chip

Have Razor tune it and try again

The best bang for the buck is discussed Here. Many, sometimes conflicting, opinions there about downpipes, injectors and turbo options....Something there may strike a chord with you and give you a place to start.

Good Luck

 

[RobR]

I think the 301 on a dyno was an engine dyno. Didn't have dynojets back in 89. So that number you got would be close to it.

For the TTA to have 301rwhp, it would have run higher mph than the 104 or so, stock.

Very nice chip numbers for just a chip change

 

[chicagoTTA]

Yea... I was surprised by the chip too. I had a thrasher 92 chip, but that would fall flat on it's face at about 4k, and stop pulling.

I dunno what this chip is, with the exception of the timing. I got it from ANS... they had it sitting in a drawer under some dust. It is for a TTA tho.

The only slight issue is that it's running a tad lean in the upper RPM band.

As for stock HP #'s, I believe the 301 hp was BHP. But, I thought I read on here somewhere that someone claimed their 'stock' car went a little over 300 on a chassis dyno.

Anyway, I thought it'd be cool to FINALLY get some real #'s after each mod to settle some debates over mods. I think it would help us all. So that's what I'm setting out to do. It's worth the $50 just to have some proof one way or the other.

 

[Lee_Burough]

start with valve springs and retest.

 

[RobR]

I second changing the valve springs. Also, might want to change the fuel pump also. You shouldn't be going lean.

 

[Razor]

Your also dyno testing a car that is now going on 16 years old, with 16 year old stuff and who knows how many miles. So if 301 was possible back in 89... what makes you think your car after 16 years will dyno the number.

Also your not using a scantool, your playing russian roulete with the motor. I dont mean to sound harsh.. but "TUNING" is looking at numbers and making adjustments. the stock TTA chip is pretty aggressive. And the stock GN chip is even more so timing wise.

Add timing, add boost, it all makes more power. The scantool just verifies how well the power is being made.

The 242 is probably more realistic. If 301 was flywheel.. then 20 percent loss would equal 240. Changing the chip.. changes everything.

Watch that KR like a hawk. And keep squeezing. I bet you could get 400 RWHP with a KN, chip, adj fpr, open dump, high octane gas, and a bleeder valve. Assumming motor internally is sound, and springs arent weak.

THDP at 16 PSI wont be worth 5 hp.

Exhuast yes.

 

[1BADDAM]

PAS stated the car dynoed 280/380 at the wheels back in the day.

Change out your valve springs, have the injectors cleaned, I would imagine your numbers would be higher. As Razor stated its a 16 yr old car.

Good luck

 

[flyc2a]

i dyno'd my tta with 19k miles with the following mods,
k&n filter
Thrasher 92
pretty much stock

247 rwhp
383 rwtq
Keep in mind they run the car in 4th gear and i was only getting 15lbs of boost

Have not dyno'd since upgrading turbo to a te-44, will keep u posted

 

[chicagoTTA]

Forgive me for a fairly stupid question. But how will changing the valve springs help exactly?

I understand that I should change them... since the car sat so long (so few miles) the springs were stuck in a certain position for so long. But what will that do for performance?

I have a decent working knowledge of engine components, but that doesn't mean I necessarily understand their affects on performance (if any).

What's a good method for cleaning the injectors? (easy, do it yourself type).

For the record, I wasn't complaining about my performance when I posted my #'s. I just didn't see that anyone ever did post bone stock dyno #'s and wanted to share.

But, all advice is ALWAYS welcome. Even if it's a brick upside my head like brother Razor does sometimes. We ALL need that sometimes you know!

 

[broke1]

Good #s

IMO Razor is the man on these cars.Listen to him and your car will run circles around everyone else while lasting longer.Ive learned most of what I know about TRs from him.Whoops!! Now no one is going to listen to you anymore Julio!!

 

[davege]

My Festival car (#90) pulled 268.6 HP & 365.4 ftlbs of torque with a Conely 92 chip, K&N cone filter and Dynomax muffler. The car had the valve springs replaced and had 4900 miles on it at the time. I would like to try it with a 100 octane chip, since I run 100 unleaded all the time and see the difference.

This was on a Dynojet rear wheel dyno.

- Dave

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by chicagoTTA

But, all advice is ALWAYS welcome. Even if it's a brick upside my head like brother Razor does sometimes. We ALL need that sometimes you know!

I appologize for my harshness

The springs issue is as follows.. as the rpms come up, and your putting boost into the motor, the intake valve has pressurized air on its back, and a weak spring will not allow it to close as fast as it should. So it hangs.. or in other terminology.. floats.

But on a Dyno.. I dunno. The pull happens so fast.. its probably not the issue.

My car had a top end issue 2 years ago.. everybody said springs.. well I changed the springs and it didnt fix the problem. Ended up being the transmission was holding the car back. And you have to be careful on spring selection.. I would say get the 90/95 lbs varieties. You get an aggressive 110 lb spring.. you may wipe the cam out. Some cars do.. other dont. The cheap 50 dollar springs from most vendors will be ok.

Did I say get a scantool..

Broke1.. you have that car running yet?

hehe

 

[chicagoTTA]

I just rec'd the TTA Service Manual Suppliment from RobR. Now I'm officially dangerous. Tools, Tequila, Tech Manual. Whew. Not good. If y'all see a mushroom cloud over Chicago, don't worry. It's just me and my manual. Kinda like Dexters Lab.

Speaking of that volitile mix - Me, Tools, Tequila and Tech manual... Has anyone ever ended up with a bunch of 'extra' parts after putting their car together?? I find bolts, brackets and things I can't describe when I'm done!

According to that thing, the turbo is the issue. It says take it off and I'll be fine. Plus, the car will be a few lbs lighter without that hunk of junk. That oughta help right???

Changing the springs (thanks to brotha Razor again for the info) has been on my list of shiznit to do since he told me about it 8 mos ago.

I think it's STILL impressive that a 15 y.o. car dyno'd the #'s I posted. Especially since the 'official' HP rating was only 255.

And no worries Julio, I need a good brick upside the head sometimes. I've been putting off the ScanTool for too long anyway. Time to open the checkbook.

 

[1badTTA]

OK, since we have the guinnea pig chosen, I want to see as a next step springs, then K&N cone filter, then adjustable wastegate and FPR (see what tweaking it yourself will do). All of these could be done on the same day if you go in with the WG and FPR adjusted to factory specs. The K&N wouldn't take long and the springs are something you already have tested stock ones.


Get that scan tool NOW!!!!!

Scantools are cheaper than having headgaskets replaced, trust me