OK, I installed a real boost gauge and knock gauge (84GN). I adjusted the wastegate actuator rod a few turns to shorten it (to increase boost), which it does up until 10 or 11 psi...then no matter how many turns it stays at 10 or 11psi. It holds that 10-11 psi very well when im into it, but is there something else I can do to increase the boost on this stock fresh rebuilt turbo/stock actuator?? thanks
boost adjustment
- Thread starter newwguyy
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OK, I installed a real boost gauge and knock gauge (84GN). I adjusted the wastegate actuator rod a few turns to shorten it (to increase boost), which it does up until 10 or 11 psi...then no matter how many turns it stays at 10 or 11psi. It holds that 10-11 psi very well when im into it, but is there something else I can do to increase the boost on this stock fresh rebuilt turbo/stock actuator?? thanksIf you still running a stock cat....it may be plugged up. Do you have any exhaust leaks? Check headers for cracks. Do you have the stock Y connector on right?(Goes between the turbo and wastegate/solenoid) Check one of the link in my sig for a pic of the Y connector if you don't know what I am talking about. This one:
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/quickref.html
HTH, Nick.
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/quickref.html
HTH, Nick.
Exhaust manifold was welded after cracking few years ago, no exhaust leaks. Cat is gone, kirban exhaust is on (correct muffler for turbo). I am confused about the "Y", where exactly does it come from on the single end, and then where should each line off the "Y" go
IE..the single part of the Y?
the straight part of the Y?
the branch off of the Y?
Car is running rich, could this also be a problem affecting boost?
IE..the single part of the Y?
the straight part of the Y?
the branch off of the Y?
Car is running rich, could this also be a problem affecting boost?
Find the end of the Y that has the resistor in it(metal orfice inside the plastic orfice). This needs to have a hose running from it to the turbo compressor(source of boost). Then the other two branches of the Y go to the wastegate actuator and the wastegate solenoid.(doesn't matter which goes where since they are both open ends). What the resistor end of the Y is doing is stopping all the boost from going to the wastegate actuator and solenoid so that your wastegate puck doesn't get opened as quickly.
Might also check to see if the wastegate puck is sealed good, you can feel this with the up pipe off. Have you tried shortening the wastegate rod shorter then it needs to be, so that you actually have to pull on the rod to slip it on the puck.
Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pressure guage? How do you know its running rich? Could lower the fuel pressure a little see what happens. Keep an eye on the knock gauge. HTH, Nick
Might also check to see if the wastegate puck is sealed good, you can feel this with the up pipe off. Have you tried shortening the wastegate rod shorter then it needs to be, so that you actually have to pull on the rod to slip it on the puck.
Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pressure guage? How do you know its running rich? Could lower the fuel pressure a little see what happens. Keep an eye on the knock gauge. HTH, Nick
Yup, the Y connector is on right, I checked the diagram.
how do you take off the Up pipe? does this entail taking off the exhaust manifold too?
Its running rich because I can see some black smoke if I let it idle for more than two or three minutes then "get on it". Alot of carbon left on the ground, plus it smells rich at the rear end. (this is indicative of running rich right?)
I am going to check the fuel pressure at idle tomorrow.
Can anyone recommend a decent priced fuel pressure regulator??
how do you take off the Up pipe? does this entail taking off the exhaust manifold too?
Its running rich because I can see some black smoke if I let it idle for more than two or three minutes then "get on it". Alot of carbon left on the ground, plus it smells rich at the rear end. (this is indicative of running rich right?)
I am going to check the fuel pressure at idle tomorrow.
Can anyone recommend a decent priced fuel pressure regulator??
I need to buy a fuel pressure gauge, ordered one last night.
stock GN, 70k miles, rebuilt turbo, adjustable wastegate rod. no cat, kirban exhaust. Stock downpipe. Cant get more than 10 psi by shortening rod, but its a solid 10. Running rich for sure, can smell and see the black if I let it idle for more than two minutes. Any idea where to start?
stock GN, 70k miles, rebuilt turbo, adjustable wastegate rod. no cat, kirban exhaust. Stock downpipe. Cant get more than 10 psi by shortening rod, but its a solid 10. Running rich for sure, can smell and see the black if I let it idle for more than two minutes. Any idea where to start?
Do I take the valve out with the car off , then screw the fuel pressure gauge on and take the vac line off, then start the car?
One last question, do I let the car warm up first before doing the test?
Isnt gas going to go everywhere when I take the valve out? kinda like taking one out of a tire when full of air?
One last question, do I let the car warm up first before doing the test?
Isnt gas going to go everywhere when I take the valve out? kinda like taking one out of a tire when full of air?
Let the car sit over night and then take the valve out. Shouldn't cause a mess more then a rag full. I just throw a rag on the intake below the valve. You can start the car then pull the vacuum line off, don't matter. The line just needs to be on when your driving the car under boost.....so that fuel pressure raises with the boost. Don't have to warm it up. -Nick.
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