Bought a new converter


Active Member
Feb 10, 2013
*Before you read any further realize this is in a 03 turbo Mustang*

Had a revmax nitrous converter in my car and it was slipping pretty hard. 2nd and 3rd gear converter shutter so it is pretty much gone. Due to personal reasons I will never do business with these guys again. Just a small heads up about this company...they do not reman their own product, but instead try and push a new converter on me. Among a whole lot of other things...would not recommend them!

After reading all the great results about the ptc turbo converter with the turbo buick v6 and with the mustangs they were my first choice but the funds weren't there at this time. Even consulted with dusty about rebuilding my current converter. I have done a lot of research on picking the correct converter for my goals including lenny at ultimate, Chris at circle D, and a whole lot of reading on the mustang forums.

One company that really stuck out at me was Edge Racing converters so I got in contact with Andre the owner. Told him all about my setup and told him my goal to run mid 6's in the 1/8th or up to 105mph with my current turbo. Said that was a very generous goal with the power I made through a very loose converter so he spec'd me one of his pro edge converters rated for 1000hp with a true stall of around 3600rpm and a str of 2.5:1. Will not be able to foot brake this stall but to 2600-2800rpm but with the 2 step and some trick tuning to spool the turbo I think I can get by with 2200-2400rpm launches. Andre is a great guy and very helpful on the phone and for the price and guarantee he gives is hard to beat. This converter does have lu capability but not designed to lock under wot. Said this converter would slip around 4-5% with my combo at redline in 1:1 gear.

The converter is now on the way to my house from Edge. Hope to have it installed by next weekend and post results. I don't mind sharing any of my logs but you will need to download livelink 6.5 from sct's website. I can log actual slip across the conver in rpm, tv pressure, and command gear so it will show exactly what this converter is doing.

This may or may not apply to turbo buicks as my setup is a bit different but is based off of buick receipe.

here is a pic of the material found in my trans pan. We believe it to be clutch material from the revmax converter after some abuse. Transmission was fully disassembled and cleaned. Checked out ok.


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Edge makes a good converter. I'm sure you'll be happy with your purchase. Don't be surprised if it stalls higher than 2400-2600 at 0 boost which is a good thing. If it does, spool up will be very quick.

The mod motors and the LS motors are not an issue when using a lock up converter at the power level your at. Their rpm range is 600-1000 rpm higher than the Buick V6 so they are able to build enough rpm to help efficiency without having to get it very tight down low. If you shifted your motor at 5600 rpm and still ran mid 6's you'd face the same issues the Buick owners face.

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Dusty, my cam should make power to 6000rpm. When I had it on the dyno we could not get a clean tach signal so we used mph to calculate rpm in the dyno software. Also had an issue with boost falling off on the dyno, think the 373 gears were the cause of this.All of my data logs show the car was pulled to 6100rpm before we let out. Really appreciate your input on this converter! After all of the set backs I've had with this setup it going to be nice to get the right converter in it to run the number it SHOULD be running!


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Got the new converter in yesterday, going to install today. The second pic is the old revmax converter vs stock. See how shiny that red paint is? I will post pics after I pull it to show what it looks like now!

Also the description is listed 9.5" converter, it actually measures 10". Cant remember but think my revmax may be a bit smaller. Judging by mounting tabs they look close.


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Few the trans pulled yesterday from the bottom. Wish I had pulled the motor and left the trans in the car because i'm going to have to crawl back under the car and line it back up. This trans seems heavier than when I installed it 5 years ago lol.

Notice the paint on the revmax converter, the red has been cooked out turning the case black. I used a fresh coat of Seymour mro industrial red to paint the thing, guess it ia a water base paint. Reguardless this converter had to be getting extremely hot to turn the red paint black. The balance feels off. Something definatlly off with this converter and would have caused me more troubles if not replace it. Revmax put little tach welds on the outside of the mounting flange to hold it in place while welding the inside. To me it looks like these welds were pulled apart and the mounting plate has deformed a little bit. Also check out the scoring on the hub, something was definatlly making metal to metal contact to leave a purple heat ring. Would really like to hear opinions on this.


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It's obviously got very hot which could explain all the issues. The heat can come from it sitting long on a trans brake, being terribly in-efficient or something being wrong internally.
No trans brake in this car. It is rated at 3400-3600rpm and could foot brake it to 3000rpm. It seems the mounting plate is warped like I suspected by laying a straight edge across it. I would estimate 1/16". I think it is out of balance as well or something internally is broken it. Rarely have I seen the temps get over 200*, and that was at the end of a pass. Now I'm curious to see whats going on inside this thing.

On a good note I bought a $89 trans jack(scissor style) from harbor freight. Will work on getting the trans bolted back up this coming week. would like to have it ready for this coming Friday so we shall see.
Temps should be well over 200 to cause that kind of expansion. The other possibility is it ballooned if your temps never got to high.

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The only thing I hate about using that trans jack is that even with the jack stands maxed out, the trans jack couldn't get low enough to roll the tranny out. I had to make 4x4 blocks to get the car higher to get the best use of the trans jack. I wouldn't take anything for it tho. Make sure you have a jack that can give you some height. Be safe!
Dusty, you are probably right on the temp. So let me rephrase and say I never logged temps over 200.

Rag 231, glad to hear this jack worked well for you. I'm not planning on rolling the trans out from under the car. I was able to replace the converter while the trans underneath.
Got it just about all buttoned up. Still have to install my down pipe exhaust. Hopefully some new track times next Friday. Would of had it done sooner if I had the trans jack to begin with. This is one tool I'm glad I invested in. Also changed the diff fluid since I was there and heat wrapped some wires and hoses that were close to the crossover/down pipe.

I did snap some more pics of my revmax nitrous converter, the one with anti ballooning plates that shows signs of ballooning lol. Good thing I pulled it before it damaged my crank shaft thrust bearing. Scat crank shafts aren't cheap these days! I don't see how else those tach welds separated that much without the case expanding. also my new edge converter uses the same case as the revmax and the revmax appeared to be taller than the edge. Wish I would have measuered it before I installed.


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Got it finished up yesterday but dint have time to take her out. Topped off all the fluids this morning and took her around the block.
Initial reaction is it's way too tight. Can only stall it to 2200rpm before it spins the tires, so wont be building any boost off the line. Good things are I can now feel the low end grunt of this stroker motor MUCH more. This is going to make it a more suitable cruiser and fun on the street. This motor probably makes somewhere between 280-300hp na so it's not lazy.

With all do respect to Edge racing converters I will test it out at the track to see how it performs before I send it back for a restall. As long as it can go 1.6's I'll be happy for a street/strip car. I haven't taken it to the four lanes to do a wot pull so I don't even know what the flash will be. Hopefully I will be able to take it out after the sun goes down for some wot pulls. When I do I will definatlly post results.
What are you using for rear brakes? Plus im sure sticky tires on a prepped track vs street tires on the street will net you a few more rpms...Im suprised ur having issues spooling a 6262 for a launch....
No spooling issues here. The brakes are stock mustang disc brakes with ss lines. Would like to step up to the cobra 13" but cant run my 15" rims with those. I may step up to a trans brake when or if I go bigger on the turbo. First thing to do is get it to the track to find out what it needs.
Set the boost where you intend to race it at and make some track passes. Log it or note how much rpm drop you have on the gear changes. Hopefully you have excessive rpm drop so when it's loosened up to help spool up you will still have something efficient on the top end.

If you have 1200-1600 rpm drop or more you have plenty of room to loosen it up for easy spool and still maintain low slip. If its less than 1000 rpm drop they maybe able to loosen it up down low and tighten it up top.

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Thanks for the feedback Dusty! About to take it to mexico to see what shes doing;)

Attached is something cool. tgxo2 is the tune file on my car vs tgxo4 which is stock factory tune file from ford. able to share by comparing the 2 tune files in Advantage3 and save. Borderline knock and maximum allowed spark tables are the 2 tables refrenced for spark and the pcm goes to which ever is lowest. Maf transfer function is the open loop fueling based on mass/tic. 0 would be 0volts to 1023 which is 4.99volts for the maf. This maf I'm running has been close to 1000rwhp on some v8's and into the 800's a a ford v6 so there is no maxing it.


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This converter hits HARD!! Didn't have a very good shift drop data because I had to get out of it several times due to wheel hop and tire spin. One good log I got did show 1000rpm drop from 2-3. Going to have to adjust the psi in my rear bags and play with tire pressure, or just wait til I can get it on the track. The stall goes from 1300rpm to 6500rpm in about 2 sec from a dead stop. I will break the log down a little better tomorrow when I have time but if anyone who is interested I'm attaching a zip of the log file, just save and extract all. Like stated previous you will need to download livelink 6.5 from sct's website to view it. Also I started this log pulling out of the gas station so it may be a bit long. You can right click at the beginning of wot pull, hold it down and scroll mouse to the end and let off right button. First wot impressions are I'm impressed with the way this converter in my car.


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First time out with new converter the car did ok. Wouldn't 60' for crap though. The car is pig rich on launch so it's effecting the ability to build boost and effecting the tq the engine makes thus not allowing the converter to stall past 2400rpm. 14.5-15psi, 16* advance. Once again to view the logs you will have to save and extract because this site will not allow me to upload csv files.


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Tuning on the af tonight and though I'd share a screen shot of a log. Yellow is the af at launch and the scale on the left is refrenced to af. Seems this converter that could only stall to 2200 rpm on the street is seeing 2800rpm on the track.

I do have a question, an af this rich at launch would this cause the turbo to not build boost? I know for a fact it's the cause for the lazy 60'. Also does switching to a more efficient converter effect af's? I am seeing less load on the motor since the converter swap.


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Are you on E85 or is that a real 8.8 af ratio on gas? If its pure gas, yes it would make the car very lazy. A more efficient converter will place more load on an engine.

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