Brake and Fuel lines Q?

[Kovmat]

I am getting ready to run the brake and fuel lines for my Hybrid project. Since it is a Hybrid I have to build them from scratch.

I want to do them in Stainless, but I am concerned that I won't be able to get good flairs without spending a boat load of money for a hydraulic fairing tool.

Has anyone here done stainless lines at home and can it be done with standard tools you can get at a local auto parts store?

All input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[DailyDrifter]

I got the rolls from summit and used a double flare tool. Worked fine. I think there stainless. And yes you can use a flare tool kit from Autozone to make the brake lines.

 

[steve hughes]

You can use any double flaring tool. It's alot tougher than regular steel but it's doable. It's recomended that you don't cut stainless with a tubing cutter. It work hardens and can cause the line to crack. Cut it with a cutoff whell or fine tooth hacksaw.

 

[charlief1]

I've had several flaring tools over the years and I can tell you from experience that 1) yes you can do it, and 2) get a GOOD tool if you plan on not having problems. I finally got a Matco kit and I haven't a problem since. The cheaper ones just don't hold up.

 

[DailyDrifter]

I've had several flaring tools over the years and I can tell you from experience that 1) yes you can do it, and 2) get a GOOD tool if you plan on not having problems. I finally got a Matco kit and I haven't a problem since. The cheaper ones just don't hold up.

The holding fixture does where out, but for $20 bucks, if you dont use it everyday this is the best way to go. IMO

 

[turbofabricator]

You can use stainless compression fittings and no need to flair. They are rated at 3,000 psi and are used on stainless all the time in high pressure hydraulics. We use compression fittings on aircraft hydraulic sytems that operate at 5,000 psi, too. They look and work awsome. Here is a link for them. Flareless Compression Hydraulic Tube Fittings
If you don't feel comfortable flaring stainless tubing (depending on the temper of the SS, it CAN crack) and you don't have a 37* flaring tool (if using AN fittings) then use the stainless steel compression fittings. Follow the directions CAREFULLY on how much torque to use. For fuel lines, you can just buy the pre-fabbed steel brake lines at your local auto parts store. A single 3/8" line will supply fuel into the 9's IF you use 3/8 inverted flare and NOT the stock Saginaw fittings. Every 3/8" Saginaw fitting reduces the I.D. of the tube to .257" (for the O-ring). The stock Buick fuel system is really only a 1/4" line. The stock fuel lines have supplied enough fuel to run in the 9's, too. So, stepping up to a .375" line will supply a WHOLE lot more fuel. If you plan on making more than 750 hp, then step up to a 1/2" feed line.

 

[GNRick]

You can use stainless compression fittings and no need to flair. They are rated at 3,000 psi and are used on stainless all the time in high pressure hydraulics. We use compression fittings on aircraft hydraulic sytems that operate at 5,000 psi, too. They look and work awsome. Here is a link for them. Flareless Compression Hydraulic Tube Fittings
If you don't feel comfortable flaring stainless tubing (depending on the temper of the SS, it CAN crack) and you don't have a 37* flaring tool (if using AN fittings) then use the stainless steel compression fittings. Follow the directions CAREFULLY on how much torque to use. For fuel lines, you can just buy the pre-fabbed steel brake lines at your local auto parts store. A single 3/8" line will supply fuel into the 9's IF you use 3/8 inverted flare and NOT the stock Saginaw fittings. Every 3/8" Saginaw fitting reduces the I.D. of the tube to .257" (for the O-ring). The stock Buick fuel system is really only a 1/4" line. The stock fuel lines have supplied enough fuel to run in the 9's, too. So, stepping up to a .375" line will supply a WHOLE lot more fuel. If you plan on making more than 750 hp, then step up to a 1/2" feed line.

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but.......I plan to install the brake jumper valve in my brake line. Should I use the compression fittings or should I flare the line? Here is the website for the jumper: Untitled Document

 

[charlief1]

The holding fixture does where out, but for $20 bucks, if you dont use it everyday this is the best way to go. IMO

I never had a problem with the holding tool, I always had the tip of the tool wear out. The cheap ones are always soft and will burr after a while. The Matco one is very hard and chrome plated so it works a little better.

 

[Kovmat]

Thanks for all the input. I think I will give it a shot.

 

[turbofabricator]

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but.......I plan to install the brake jumper valve in my brake line. Should I use the compression fittings or should I flare the line? Here is the website for the jumper: Untitled Document

The included swage-lok fittings are more than up to the task. The maximimum pressre you will see in a GN brake system is 1700 psi. That is half of the fittings rating.

 

[GNRick]

The included swage-lok fittings are more than up to the task. The maximimum pressre you will see in a GN brake system is 1700 psi. That is half of the fittings rating.

Which fittings do you mean? The website shows brass flare fittings. All of the parts are available separately, so nothing is "included". Thanks turbofabricator.