Brake Bleeding For Dummies???

[1BADT]

I should get my new Powermaster System tommorow. Once I get it installed I will need to bleed the brakes...

I have never done this before.

I have heard of bleeding the brakes at the 2 fittings on the Master Cylinder. Is this an OK way to bleed? I dont want to mess with the brake bleeders. They look pretty darn old. Do I Pump the brakes with the key on or Key off while I fill the resivoir with fluid? Fill then pump brakes? Also how much fluid will I need?

A step by step from someone who's done this before would be of great asistance.

Thanks Much!!!

 

[tc86gn]

The new unit should come w/some instructions on bench bleeding. That is what you do to the master cylinder. Once that is done you then install and bleed the brakes. First make sure that all of your bleeders will open and there is no foreign matter in them that will keep the fluid from escaping. If there is, take them off and clean them out then reinstall or get new ones as needed.
Start by topping off the master cylinder then have an assistant pump the brake pedal a few times and hold it down while you open up the bleeder on the passenger rear. Once you close the bleeder, then have the assistant release the pedal and repeat the process till you get clean fluid and no air. Make sure that the assistant does not release the pedal till you have closed the bleeder valve or it will allow air to enter through the bleeder valve. especially on the first wheel, it will take a few times of bleeding to get fluid and air out. repeat this process at the drivers rear, then passenger front then drivers front. After every few pumps take time to check the master cylinder fluid level and keep it topped off or this will allow air to enter also. Hope this helps.

 

[scottyb]

Tc, how do you do the rears without a complete mess? The nipples are set in such that you can't get a wrench on them and I had to use a socket. Because of this, I just opened it, put on a vac hose and held my thumb over the end. The pedal person could not "pump" several times like I would prefer, but we did flush the system.

 

[John Larkin]

You can actually change the master cylinder and never crawl under the car. If you envision the process, all you are doing is disconnecting the master cylinder from the system. Air doesn't "run" down the lines. Some fluid will run out for sure but if you set yourself up properly for the swap then you can minimize the mess. I placed some rags/paper towels ready to go under each master cylinder fitting. Then I cracked the fittings loose. Place the other master cylinder over behind it in the engine compartment ready to quickly swap out. Unscrew the master cylinder fittings, lift the old unit out of the way and as quick as possible orient the new unit in place. Screw the lines back into the master cylinder finger tight. Then finish the install to the firewall/pedal/etc.

Now with a buddy, have him push the brake pedal down and hold. Fluid will ooze out of each connection as you loosen it and the pedal will continue to drop as he pushes. Hold the pedal at the floor and retighten the connection. Do this twice on each fitting and you will likely have a good pedal; don't let the reservior run dry! Use a fender cover to prevent fluid getting on your paint. Test in the driveway only before venturing to the street. Good luck.

As for bleeding the rears (or the fronts) at the wheels, if you put a hose on the end of the wheel cylinder bleeders as mentioned it makes it alot neater. Bleeders that are screwed in finger tight will hold pressure and not leak though totally unsafe for normal operation. You can find the point were you can open and close them by hand if you play with them a little bit. Then it's just a matter of push, hold, bleed and close. Clear hose is the best so you can see the bubbles.

 

[tc86gn]

Tc, how do you do the rears without a complete mess?

Go to the auto parts store and get the proper bleeder wrench and some clear tubing as John mentioned. It is offset so you can do this w/no problem.

 

[1BADT]

John Larkin, The way you described is what I was thinking.

When you say you cracked the fittings... Does that mean the 2 brake lines only or the break lines, Switch, and accumulator fittings all together or one at a time?

Thanks, JASON

 

[John Larkin]

Just the brake line fittings. A 9/16" wrench works. Give 'em a good "snap" or use a good line wrench; otherwise they'll round off.

 

[1BADT]

Thanks for the input.... It will be very helpful, JASON

 

[tim87tr]

News Flash!

Just recently I bought that one person brake bleeding vacuam pump from Autozone for about $20. I used it on the T when I added a line lock and new rear wheel cylinders. Worked great and I'm just getting ready to use it when installing the wheel cylinders to the GN. One thing I would recommend would be to bleed the systems old dirty fluid with the old wheel cylinders on first, then add the new parts. Tim

 

[Roger]

I bought a master cylinder bleeder kit. Kit consists of two fittings & lines. put fittings in master cylinder brake line outputs & looped the lines back into the reservoir. I didn't even need an assistant as I was able to pump the brakes myself. Once the lines quit having air in them, I hooked up the brake lines to the master cylinder & had no problems.
Make sure the reservoir on the passenger side of the master cylinder isn't much over half full, or you'll have brake fluid all over the place. This reservoir feeds the pump & accumulator ball. This reservoir can be full if key off you pump the brake pedal 10 times to empty the accumulator ball. Key on will pull this reservoir down to about half by filling the accumulator.

 

[scottyb]

I had to replace the power crapper again this week.

I will never again bleed brakes using the poor-boy pump-and-spit method! I picked up a Mighty-vac brake bleeder and all I can say is FANTASTIC! One man job, much faster, less mess and the brakes are outstanding! Plus, I now have a mighty vac for other uses.

 

[soonergn]

1BADT, just don't push on the brakes with the lid off the reservoir or your engine compartment will take a fluid bath. Brake fluid makes good paint remover so be sure to clean up any spills or drips when you are done. If you make a big mess, it will rinse off with a thorough spray of water.

 

[MSDGN]

You can push the brake pedal with the reservoir cap off...just do it slow/easy...for a new PM...install the unit...get a MC bleeder kit from local part store...HELP makes a kit...a few bucks...hook up the kit and bleed the MC on the car...just pump the pedal slow...
after bleeding MC...hook up brake lines...snug them up...then loosen one at a time and let it gravity bleed for a few minutes...that's about it...as was mentioned you don't really need
to bleed the rest of the system but if the fluid hasn't been flushed out in some time now is the time...I use a Mighty-Vac to bleed at the wheels...on top of that I gravity bleed each wheel for about a half hour...