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Brake bleeding tools (or gimmicks?)

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BlackMetal

Active Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2005
Messages
4,688
Let me get right to the point. I hate bleeding brakes. With two people I guess it isn't that terrible, but alone in the driveway... no fun.

This spring I am doing an LS1 front brake swap and possibly converting the entire system to vacuum, aka mucho brake bleeding will need to be done. I could take the car to work and try to do everything there where we have an electric brake flush machine which effectively bleeds the air out of the system, or have access to compressed air to use a mityvac, BUT I will most likely end up working on my driveway just so I don't get stranded at work if something breaks/goes wrong etc.

So on to my question. Are any of these brake bleeding tools worth it... or gimmicks that leave air in the system anyway.

Speed bleeders. Seems straight-forward enough. Bleeder screws with a check-valve so you can pump the brake pedal yourself and not have air enter the system. Do these actually work or leave you with a spongy pedal?

Pressurized fill bottles. Connects to the master cylinder like the standard "gravity" bottle that refills the master cylinder automatically while you bleed so it doesn't run dry. Except in this case you operate the hand pump a few times to create pressure and then crack the bleeders... so I guess it's just an alternative to getting in and out of the car to pump the pedal.

Aside from the items I'm mentioning I'm open to any other suggestions that would make this task less annoying.
 
put new clean plastic line on each bleed screw - crack loose all of'em and keep topping off the MC - gravity bleed works great and once ya have a bit of fluid in each cup that the plactic lines are dripping in, pumping the brakes will not suck air back.

This also flushes out all the old fluid.
 
How long would you say it should take to gravity bleed the brakes, and what about the proportioning valve? Do you have to wedge it open?
 
I let it go until I see clear clean new fluid in the jars and then let about 4 ounces fill in each - that certainly should displace all the lines with fresh fluid.

Once the tubes are submerged, I pump it a few times and that seems to help push anything in the lines - out. Then let if finish with time. Seems to take about 30 minutes and I close the front's first as they flow more.
 
Gravity bleed wont get all of the air out if you're starting with a dry system. I use a MityVac. Get the one for brakes as it has the correct hose fittings on it. What I find is that I have to do a complete bleed a couple of times to get it perfect. Here is what I do. MityVac it once. Thats about a 1/2 pint of fluid per wheel. Button everything up. Drive it around the block and cycle the pedal by doing stop and go's. It helps if you have a speed bump or two. It helps to get the air pockets out of the calipers and cylinders if you can shake and rattle the suspension a little.You can also do this in the garage with a floor jack by jacking up each end of the car and than dropping it and repeating until you think you've got the bubbles in the top half. Than gravity bleed the system again. A firm pedal everytime.:)

Speedbleeders are great but after awhile the thread sealant wears away and you run the risk of air leaking into the system. And I have had a problem with the plunger(check valve?) sticking into the wheel cylinders. I guess not all cylinders are cast the same?
 
I made a vacuum bleeder out of an old 1 gallon Apple juice bottle. I drilled 2 holes in the lid, then put 1/4 tubes through and sealed with silicone. Put one hose to intake manifold vacuum and the other hose on the bleeder. Remove the bleeder and seal the threads with some teflon tape first.

It has worked well for 1 man bleeding, but I usually just bribe a buddy with a few beers and bleed them the old fasioned way.
 
I had an old 30lb ac can that i modified. same thing. use running engine to pull vacuum in can then shut valve and install hose on bleeder and open valve.I have the Huth pedal pumper which works pretty good. I just get the girlfriend to pump after i gravity bleed system.
 
I have an extra MC cap that I drilled a hole in and was thinking that my rubber air nozzle will seal up and pressurize the system forcing the fluid thru.

Have not done it yet but thinking about it.
 
Vacuum pump works good for me.
You just have to be careful that you don't run the master cylinder dry.

I have an old plastic "mighty vac" one that I got from Eastwood but it doesn't have a guage. I got a brass(?) one from my local carquest that has a gauge on it. I have used the gauged one so much I think I need to get a rebuilt kit for it now. Definetely worth the money for the metal gauged version. Probably bled every set of brakes in my family and a few friends. Fabulous results every time.

I'll never pump bleed again.
 
If you have access to it a "Vacula" like dracula works great. you hook shop air to it and put it on the bleeders, push the button and BLAAAAAAAH! you have no air and new fluid in the system. Its basically a mighty vac only faster.
 
If you have access to it a "Vacula" like dracula works great. you hook shop air to it and put it on the bleeders, push the button and BLAAAAAAAH! you have no air and new fluid in the system. Its basically a mighty vac only faster.

Yeah my problem is trying to do this in my driveway, like I mentioned, in a situation where I don't have access to compressed air, etc.

I guess at most I'll get a manual vacuum pump.
 
but what about speed bleeders?

ok I know I'm ressurecting a somewhat stale thread, but no-one posted any comments about using speed bleeders for a one-man brake bleed job.

I'm about to convert to vacuum brakes and I'm most likely going to have to do the whole job by myself.

I've seen the Russell "speed bleeders" and Earl's "solo bleeds". Does either one work? They seem like a good idea.

I Googled "one man brake bleed" and found some patent information for a check-valve that you just connect to each wheel one at a time. That seemed like a really good idea too, but I couldn't find a vendor that sold such a product.

anyway....
does anyone have any experience or opinions on the one-man brake bleeder screws (Russell, Earl's, other?)?

TIA,
Rob
 
ok I know I'm ressurecting a somewhat stale thread, but no-one posted any comments about using speed bleeders for a one-man brake bleed job.

I'm about to convert to vacuum brakes and I'm most likely going to have to do the whole job by myself.

I've seen the Russell "speed bleeders" and Earl's "solo bleeds". Does either one work? They seem like a good idea.

I Googled "one man brake bleed" and found some patent information for a check-valve that you just connect to each wheel one at a time. That seemed like a really good idea too, but I couldn't find a vendor that sold such a product.

anyway....
does anyone have any experience or opinions on the one-man brake bleeder screws (Russell, Earl's, other?)?

TIA,
Rob

They work good. My friend uses them on his race car.mac tools sells some cheap looking one man bleeder that clips right on bleeder. same concept except you dont have to replace bleeders. the only thing you want to do is pull bleeders and put some sil glide on threads and put them back in .That keeps air from getting sucked back in system while you let off pedal. gravity bleed system and while bleeding tap on calipers with small hammer.That will break air bubbles loose that are stuck on casting.then bleed system normally with one man bleeder. good luck check out ebay #330209463761
 
thanks for the replies. now that I've hi-jacked this thread..... :redface:

I've decided to piece together my own one-man brake bleed tool, probably the same concept as the Mac tool mentioned above. If anyone is interested, I'll start a new thread and post up pics and results.

sorry for the hi-jack

Rob
 
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