Brake caliper and rotor replacement
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BlackBandit
God loves Buicks!
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- Mar 29, 2003
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No tricks. Do it the same as any other car. Make sure the bearings are packed well and installed right and you'll have zero problems for years to come. I have heard there's a special order to bleed the brakes but I can't remember it. I think it's furthest to closest (PR,DR,PF,DF) This site Turbo Regal Web Site should have the info you need. HTH james
Blown&Injected
Active Member
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- May 31, 2001
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no need to bleed if the system is not opened, except for the master cylinder cover, unless the fluid level got so low it exposed the openings in the bottom of the master cylinder and if it is that low, something is wrong.
It is a good idea to hit the grease fittings while in there. It is a bit more work to pop the bearings and pull the rotor. Not needed for a brake job but as old as these cars are, it is always a good idea to keep an eye on things.
I use the old pad to press on when using a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper and twist a wire around the spring to hang the caliper, or have a bucket to set the caliper on to save the stress on the line.
It is a good idea to hit the grease fittings while in there. It is a bit more work to pop the bearings and pull the rotor. Not needed for a brake job but as old as these cars are, it is always a good idea to keep an eye on things.
I use the old pad to press on when using a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper and twist a wire around the spring to hang the caliper, or have a bucket to set the caliper on to save the stress on the line.
brake job
I like to use a turkey baster to remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder prior to starting a brake job. That prevents an overflow when you retract the calipers or shoes. I had to learn that the hard way. :frown:
HTH
Peter
I like to use a turkey baster to remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder prior to starting a brake job. That prevents an overflow when you retract the calipers or shoes. I had to learn that the hard way. :frown:
HTH
Peter
Blown&Injected
Active Member
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^ good idea.
Last time I did brakes, I actually did that, not because I have had an over flow problem (Power Master has a big reservoir) but because I did not have any help to bleed and the fluid looks more like dirty oil. So I sucked out all the fluid and wiped the inside clean with paper towels, opened all the bleed screws and let it gravity bleed until fresh fluid flowed from all 4's.
Last time I did brakes, I actually did that, not because I have had an over flow problem (Power Master has a big reservoir) but because I did not have any help to bleed and the fluid looks more like dirty oil. So I sucked out all the fluid and wiped the inside clean with paper towels, opened all the bleed screws and let it gravity bleed until fresh fluid flowed from all 4's.
petty
New Member
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- Aug 8, 2008
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- 16
You have to remove the brake caliper first in order to gain access to the rotor. Just locate the bolts attaching to the brake caliper and remove them. Let the brake fluid flow into the drain pan. Then remove the rotor from its position.
