Brake light comes on for a sec, and goes off??
- Thread starter im4darush
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You may have 2 problems happening at once.
1 - Yes, your accumulator is most likely failing. Run some diagnostics tests to confirm it - Brake System
2 - Spongy pedal feel is classic sign air in your system. If you haven't changed your brake fluid in a while (like a few years or if ever), it's probably time. Old brake fluid can absorb moisture and boil easily. Bingo, you have air in your calipers or cylinders.
Determine the condition of your accumulator and go from there.
1 - Yes, your accumulator is most likely failing. Run some diagnostics tests to confirm it - Brake System
2 - Spongy pedal feel is classic sign air in your system. If you haven't changed your brake fluid in a while (like a few years or if ever), it's probably time. Old brake fluid can absorb moisture and boil easily. Bingo, you have air in your calipers or cylinders.
Determine the condition of your accumulator and go from there.
Well, the car has been sitting since 1993. So there may be a problem with the fluid. And the pedal does feel like one where the system has not been bled 100%. I was just wondering if there is anything GN specific to worry about. I have no experience at all with the powermaster system.
The PowerMaster is a beast all it's own. It has to be treated right.
Run some diagnostics first.
Then, depending on what your times are, you may need to flush the system.
My best guess (just from what you have said) is that your acc ball is dying from no use over a long period of time and now that you have brought it back to life it won't take it. Fluid is definetely in need of changing being that old.
See my sig for proper bleed/flush directions.
Feel free to ask if you have questions.
Run some diagnostics first.
Then, depending on what your times are, you may need to flush the system.
My best guess (just from what you have said) is that your acc ball is dying from no use over a long period of time and now that you have brought it back to life it won't take it. Fluid is definetely in need of changing being that old.
See my sig for proper bleed/flush directions.
Feel free to ask if you have questions.
POWERBRAKEBOB
Banned
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2005
- Messages
- 318
Hydroboost Conversion
The Motor/pumps Wear Out And Fill With Brake Fluid. This Shorts Them Out. The Accumulators Wear Out, Also, And Then The Pressure Switch, Too. It Seems It Is Always One, Or The Other, That Needs To Be Replaced Every Year. We Have Recommended The Hydroboost Because It Runs Off Of The P/s Pump, And Needs Neither Electricity Nor Vacuum. The G.n. Has Little Vacuum. Supercharging A Vacuum Booster Was Never A Good Idea, And Buick Never Sold A Turbocharged Car With A Vacuum Booster. When You Bring Up The Prm Of The Engine, The Pump Speed Increases, Too. This Holds The Hydroboost Applied Even Harder.
The Motor/pumps Wear Out And Fill With Brake Fluid. This Shorts Them Out. The Accumulators Wear Out, Also, And Then The Pressure Switch, Too. It Seems It Is Always One, Or The Other, That Needs To Be Replaced Every Year. We Have Recommended The Hydroboost Because It Runs Off Of The P/s Pump, And Needs Neither Electricity Nor Vacuum. The G.n. Has Little Vacuum. Supercharging A Vacuum Booster Was Never A Good Idea, And Buick Never Sold A Turbocharged Car With A Vacuum Booster. When You Bring Up The Prm Of The Engine, The Pump Speed Increases, Too. This Holds The Hydroboost Applied Even Harder.
Not true Bob,
The P/M pump is supposed to be filled with fluid. If it doesn't it can't pump up the acc ball.
Yes, they can wear out if not properly cared for.
But I will beg to differ with you on your every year statement as my PowerMaster has been operating flawlessly for over 7 years now. The OP has not had his in operation for over 10 years! Any brake system not being use for that long will need work....even your system.
Rush,
If you ever do decide to convert to some other form of braking, the Hydroboost is an excellent system. The PowerMaster is also an excellent system, but high maintanence.
POWERBRAKEBOB
Banned
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2005
- Messages
- 318
H
Hi Zeus..of Course The Pump Side Pumps Brake Fluid. What I Was Refering To Is When The "seal" Between The Pump And The Windings Fails, The 12v Side Will Fill With Fluid And Short It Out. That Is When The Fuses Keep Blowing. The Part I Don't Like About Pumping Brake Fluid Under Pressure, Is That They Use Phenolic Vanes In The Pump, As Brake Fluid Offers No Lubricity. The Plastic Vanes Wear Quickly. When They Wear The Pump Runs On Wearing Even Faster. Yes, Dirty Fluid Wears Them Out Even Faster. Also Brake Fluid, By Design, Absorbs Water. Pumping Water Isn't Great, Either, For The Pump. Brake Fluid Is Glycol Based, Similiar To Anti-freeze. The Reason For That Is The Water Will Be Dispersed Evenly Thoughout The Brake System, Instead Of "globules" Of Water. Silicone Would Sound Great As An Answer, But When You Pump Silicone Through A Vane Pump, It Foams. More Trouble. We Recently Found Some New Pumps For The P/m, And We Can Rebuild The Original Unit, Using A New Pump. We Need To Acquire The Accums And New Switches, And Then We Can Offer A Quality Reman Unit. We Like The Hydroboost, Because It Needs No Vacuum ,and No Electrical Connections. It Just Does It's Job, Reliably. If The Engine Is Running, Usually When You Are Driving, The P/s Pump, And The Hydroboost Is On The Job.
Hi Zeus..of Course The Pump Side Pumps Brake Fluid. What I Was Refering To Is When The "seal" Between The Pump And The Windings Fails, The 12v Side Will Fill With Fluid And Short It Out. That Is When The Fuses Keep Blowing. The Part I Don't Like About Pumping Brake Fluid Under Pressure, Is That They Use Phenolic Vanes In The Pump, As Brake Fluid Offers No Lubricity. The Plastic Vanes Wear Quickly. When They Wear The Pump Runs On Wearing Even Faster. Yes, Dirty Fluid Wears Them Out Even Faster. Also Brake Fluid, By Design, Absorbs Water. Pumping Water Isn't Great, Either, For The Pump. Brake Fluid Is Glycol Based, Similiar To Anti-freeze. The Reason For That Is The Water Will Be Dispersed Evenly Thoughout The Brake System, Instead Of "globules" Of Water. Silicone Would Sound Great As An Answer, But When You Pump Silicone Through A Vane Pump, It Foams. More Trouble. We Recently Found Some New Pumps For The P/m, And We Can Rebuild The Original Unit, Using A New Pump. We Need To Acquire The Accums And New Switches, And Then We Can Offer A Quality Reman Unit. We Like The Hydroboost, Because It Needs No Vacuum ,and No Electrical Connections. It Just Does It's Job, Reliably. If The Engine Is Running, Usually When You Are Driving, The P/s Pump, And The Hydroboost Is On The Job.
DUH! I knew that. Just being stupid today.
Haven't actually seen that happen yet, but I wouldn't doubt that it could.
Oh Yea? Sounds interesting. It would be good if you can offer a quality rebuild at a competitive price. P/M prices aren't too bad these days, but they are getting higher.
I would be glad to test one of those units for ya.
Oh, I agree. It's just that initial cost
Of course it seems that everything for our cars is getting more expensive these days.
Thanks for all these replies guys. I plan on staying with the powermaster as my car is 16k mile original. I have another post in this forum describing a clicking from the P/M motor. Basically it clicks every second with the key in the 'ON' position. When I say click, I mean it sounds like it is trying to engage. You can even see it move when it clicks, and see a volt drop on the voltmeter. I would assume it is getting power but not running.
