You can type here any text you want

brakets to pull motor

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

SIXBANGR

mean old man
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
2,446
where do they go? One is larger. looked at eng. pik but did not see them.
 
i dont use the hook or chains or bolts

i use a strap pushed under the intake from side to side and tie it at the top
 
Reason for this?

i dont use the hook or chains or bolts

i use a strap pushed under the intake from side to side and tie it at the top

Is there a reason for this? Or is it a preferred method.

I was wondering if I could use these two hooks with the transmission hooked up? Or if the weight is to much. I always get nervous with those two bolts. Seems like they wouldn't even hold the engine itself. I know it's a physics type thing I simply don't understand but it makes me nervous.

We had my engine up on a hoist this weekend with the two hooks described earlier and I was just waiting for the engine to crash to the ground.

Silly I suppose.
 
You can litterally pick up the whole front of the car off of the front bracket. Lots of strength there. I don't reccommend that, but you "could".;)
 
i've done engine and trans with the strap through the intake
the strap i used was the excess cuttoffs from my trailer tiedowns 3" web

the other thing i found works great and is easier to push is outdated 5point harnesses webbing. with the joiner tabs (looped per simpsons recommendation) or even with the adjusters blocks you dont have to rely on a knot
 
Use the strap under the intake method. The chain method is antique. With the chain attached to any of the bolts, you have chance of scratching something. With the strap under the intake, just make sure you go between the fuel rail and intake.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Use the strap under the intake method. The chain method is antique. With the chain attached to any of the bolts, you have chance of scratching something. With the strap under the intake, just make sure you go between the fuel rail and intake.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

what are you going to scratch by using the exhaust studs--------i've only pulled over a two hundred GN engines and can't remember scratching anything and with some of the nice cars i work on regularly i would not forget it--------might be antique but it sure beats a sling under the intake-------using the studs makes it easy to balance the engine any way you want it and it always sits stable left to right-------want to pull just the engine with all accessories?-----use one middle and one front stud-----engine sits level--------want to pull the engine with the accesories removed?-------use two center studs engine sits level with no tipping front or back-------want to pull the engine with trans attached use two center studs and engine will tip down 15 degrees in the back making it easy to pull from the compartment with plenty of clearance for the radiator and firewall--------with engine out use one center and one rear stud and engine/trans sits level with all accessories--------the way i see it to use a sling you have to remove quite a bit of stuff from the top of the engine in order to place the sling so that it doesn't damage or bend things like the fuel rail and other delicate items mounted on the intake---------i prefer to do all that type of work with the engine removed from the car and on a stand---------everybody to their own opinion but I just don't get the sling idea and its not because i havent' given it consideration-------and the factory brackets???-------these were designed for dropping the engine and tranny in the frame on the assembly line with the front not yet on the chassis--------thats why they are offset like they are and make it hard to balance and level the engine without the special fixture used by the factory--------you can see a picture of this complex fixture in the GNX book and its not something you are going to find in any tool outlet--------the factory brackets were not designed to be used to remove the engine from a complete car with installed front clip..........while the exhaust studs don't appear to be very large (8mm) they are more than strong enough to lift the engine/tranny--------they are probably equivalent to grade 8 but even if they were only grade 5 a conservative calculation of their shear strength would be in the 3000lb+ range-------two of them would be good for 2000lbs with a 3:1 safety factor and since a GN engine/tranny combo is only 650 lbs its pretty safe-------when using the chain place it on the stud followed by a washer and finger tighten the nut so there is no added tension on the stud---------well over 200 engine pulls and never so much as even a bent stud.............RC
 
......when using the chain place it on the stud followed by a washer and finger tighten the nut so there is no added tension on the stud---------well over 200 engine pulls and never so much as even a bent stud.............RC

That is the method I have used.
Of course, on a Non IC’d set-up, a strap under the intake is not an option.

On a side note;
On thing I did not like, is the stress of the chain on the valve covers, so, I build a custom engine puller out of u-shaped steel, with chains on the ends and the middle, so the chains are vertical under load and away from the valve covers. :cool:
 
That is the method I have used.
Of course, on a Non IC’d set-up, a strap under the intake is not an option.

On a side note;
On thing I did not like, is the stress of the chain on the valve covers, so, I build a custom engine puller out of u-shaped steel, with chains on the ends and the middle, so the chains are vertical under load and away from the valve covers. :cool:

i too have a spreader bar-------made from a steel bar just about 22" long--------a chain is attached to each end and it has a center mounted lug where the hoist attaches-------chains drop straight down to the studs and it works perfect..............RC
 
Back
Top