Brand new to the site, my first TR oil pressure troubles

[Whiteturbot87]

I would not crank the engine with just the plug wires pulled off. if the coils are trying to fire with no plugs attached the voltage spike is not really good for the coils.

the best way to disable the engine from starting if you want to crank it over is to unplug the crank or cam sensors, or unplug the ignition module.

Anyway, I agree with most of what these guys are saying, you want to figure out what you have, and low oil pressure is not a good thing. If the engine is really just 6K old, then I have to wonder who did the work, and what the bearing clearances and pump clearances are.

If the oil pump was reassembled with a new gasket, it likely has too much clearance which will affect your idle pressure. Easy fix there.

But, one last thing..... What kind of oil presure gauge are you using? I had my share of bad luck with gauges, and don't trust any of them any more.

Where are you located, likely there are members nearby that can lend an eyeball to the diagnosis.

Bob

Im in palm desert california, maybe theres someone nearby. And how should i go about checking clearance on my oil pump? Also im using VDO electric gauge, any ideas on how to hook up a more reliable mechanical one?

A decent mechanical gauge will cost you in the range of 70$ from summit.
However for test purposes you just need a mechanical gauge that is not damaged and a way to connect it to the brass tee at the turbo feed from the block where your electric gauge sending unit is....If you are not able to come up
with the needed fittings and tubing for a temporary guage you may just want to make the purhase from summit or jegs of the mechanical gauge.

Checking the oil pump end clearance is a PITA with the engine in the car.......
You will want to rotate the engine and line the timing marks up....this will help with reassembly.

NEXT you would have to remove the cover plate that is held on with 6 bolts and
then you will puke oil every where as the pump drains out.

Then you will need to remove the cam sensor noting its position both where the wires are pointing'
and take the cap off and note the position off the window in the rotor for reassembly.

Then after cleaning you will need to get a plastigauge set that goes up to .009 from summit IIRC
then put the plastigauge on the bottom of the pump gears reassemble and tighten to crush
the plastigauge......then remve the cover again and comare the crushed plastigage to th the strip chart
provided in the kit.

Or the the best way is in you have access to machinist tool you can use a depth micrometer and then a micrometer
to measure the crushed gasket and do the math.
But I have never done one in the car and I do not know if you can use the depth mic in the car......

Then after that is all done you have to pack the pump and gears with vaseline or wheel bearing grease put the
pump together then prime the oil system and then go through the cam sensor setting procedure and then put it all back together.
..............Like I said a real pita to do in the car............

yeah that sounds like alot and a whole lot more than my knowledge of these motors, ill inspect everything first rockers bearings etc. alsoo ordering parts for a temporary oil guage ill install at turbo inlet line, just to make sure my readings with the electrix one were accurate. After all that i will tackle the pump, updates coming.

VDO is decent, GlowShift sucks

there are some oil pump experts on here that can go into real details. But the first question is whether the front cover is stock GM, or aftermarket and whether it has a high volume kit or not. Post some pics of it.

To set clearance with out removing the front cover, you unbolt the oil filter adapter and lay a straight edge across the face of the gears to determine if they are flush, sunk into the pocket, or protrude. then select a gasket that sets the assembled clearance at "almost nothing". Selective gasket kits are available from TA performance. You can also add a high volume kit which will help your pressure and let you run lighter oil, once you are satisfied that the engine is basically healthy. (note that my engine is this way, with the high volume kit I have about 10 psi at hot idle with 10W40).

And, since nobody mentioned it, if you have a conventional flat-tapped camshaft you need to run conventional oil with ZDDP additive, or the cam will probably fail on you.

Bob

thanks for help ill attach a couple pictures of my pump and motor. Im inspecting rockers and bearings first then installing a temp mechanical guage just to verify the 9-10psi at idle then ill tackle pump. And i dont understand are you talking about a thinner gasket be

VDO is decent, GlowShift sucks

there are some oil pump experts on here that can go into real details. But the first question is whether the front cover is stock GM, or aftermarket and whether it has a high volume kit or not. Post some pics of it.

To set clearance with out removing the front cover, you unbolt the oil filter adapter and lay a straight edge across the face of the gears to determine if they are flush, sunk into the pocket, or protrude. then select a gasket that sets the assembled clearance at "almost nothing". Selective gasket kits are available from TA performance. You can also add a high volume kit which will help your pressure and let you run lighter oil, once you are satisfied that the engine is basically healthy. (note that my engine is this way, with the high volume kit I have about 10 psi at hot idle with 10W40).

And, since nobody mentioned it, if you have a conventional flat-tapped camshaft you need to run conventional oil with ZDDP additive, or the cam will probably fail on you.

Bob

Im in palm desert california, maybe theres someone nearby. And how should i go about checking clearance on my oil pump? Also im using VDO electric gauge, any ideas on how to hook up a more reliable mechanical one?



yeah that sounds like alot and a whole lot more than my knowledge of these motors, ill inspect everything first rockers bearings etc. alsoo ordering parts for a temporary oil guage ill install at turbo inlet line, just to make sure my readings with the electrix one were accurate. After all that i will tackle the pump, updates coming.

Thanksfor advice im setting up a temporray mechanical gauge to verify 9-10psi then checking rockers and bearings, last ill tackle oil pump if need be. Did you mean a thinner gasket between pump and block or adapter and pump.?

 

[ITSAV6]

You can do a search on oil pump set up, front cover mods, earl brown cover mods and find some pics to better explain it.

 

[earlbrown]

I can't believe he mentioned having a Fram filter on the car and nobody commented on it......


NEVER (EVER EVER EVER!) run a Fram filter on these cars!! What you had was a shittly filter with a shitty anti-drainback valve causing the oil to drain from the filter while the engine was off.

Upon startup you had no oil until the pump could refill the bigger fitter burp the air out and get back on the clock. During that time your lifters got compressed and the ticking started.


I'm guessing after it started working again you could cut the car off, start it right back up and have pressure?


On your filters, get a Wix if you're at Oreillys, Mobil1 from Vatozone, PureOne from AAV, NAPA gold from NAPA, or Baldwin if you hang out at truck stops.

Put a quality filter on there and see how the car acts. If you want a little more pressure so you don't have to run gear dope in the oil pan, remove the large 1" nut next to the filter and find a thin 1/4 or 6mm washer than will fit in there perfectly and shim the relief spring a little.

Since if's over 100F where you at, staying with 20W50 might not be a bad idea until it cools off.


There's one other nuance with these cars that don't cross over to SBC's and the like.... A ''fresh'', ''new'', or ''rebuilt'' engine is rarely a good thing. When built right they can run 11s every day for hundreds of thousands of miles. I don't know too many people that spend the time money and effort to build one right, then dump the car.

 

[Whiteturbot87]

I would not crank the engine with just the plug wires pulled off. if the coils are trying to fire with no plugs attached the voltage spike is not really good for the coils.

the best way to disable the engine from starting if you want to crank it over is to unplug the crank or cam sensors, or unplug the ignition module.

Anyway, I agree with most of what these guys are saying, you want to figure out what you have, and low oil pressure is not a good thing. If the engine is really just 6K old, then I have to wonder who did the work, and what the bearing clearances and pump clearances are.

If the oil pump was reassembled with a new gasket, it likely has too much clearance which will affect your idle pressure. Easy fix there.

But, one last thing..... What kind of oil presure gauge are you using? I had my share of bad luck with gauges, and don't trust any of them any more.

Where are you located, likely there are members nearby that can lend an eyeball to the diagnosis.

Bob

Im in palm desert california, maybe theres someone nearby. And how should i go about checking clearance on my oil pump? Also im using VDO electric gauge, any ideas on how to hook up a more reliable mechanical one?

A decent mechanical gauge will cost you in the range of 70$ from summit.
However for test purposes you just need a mechanical gauge that is not damaged and a way to connect it to the brass tee at the turbo feed from the block where your electric gauge sending unit is....If you are not able to come up
with the needed fittings and tubing for a temporary guage you may just want to make the purhase from summit or jegs of the mechanical gauge.

Checking the oil pump end clearance is a PITA with the engine in the car.......
You will want to rotate the engine and line the timing marks up....this will help with reassembly.

NEXT you would have to remove the cover plate that is held on with 6 bolts and
then you will puke oil every where as the pump drains out.

Then you will need to remove the cam sensor noting its position both where the wires are pointing'
and take the cap off and note the position off the window in the rotor for reassembly.

Then after cleaning you will need to get a plastigauge set that goes up to .009 from summit IIRC
then put the plastigauge on the bottom of the pump gears reassemble and tighten to crush
the plastigauge......then remve the cover again and comare the crushed plastigage to th the strip chart
provided in the kit.

Or the the best way is in you have access to machinist tool you can use a depth micrometer and then a micrometer
to measure the crushed gasket and do the math.
But I have never done one in the car and I do not know if you can use the depth mic in the car......

Then after that is all done you have to pack the pump and gears with vaseline or wheel bearing grease put the
pump together then prime the oil system and then go through the cam sensor setting procedure and then put it all back together.
..............Like I said a real pita to do in the car............

yeah that sounds like alot and a whole lot more than my knowledge of these motors, ill inspect everything first rockers bearings etc. alsoo ordering parts for a temporary oil guage ill install at turbo inlet line, just to make sure my readings with the electrix one were accurate. After all that i will tackle the pump, updates coming.

VDO is decent, GlowShift sucks

there are some oil pump experts on here that can go into real details. But the first question is whether the front cover is stock GM, or aftermarket and whether it has a high volume kit or not. Post some pics of it.

To set clearance with out removing the front cover, you unbolt the oil filter adapter and lay a straight edge across the face of the gears to determine if they are flush, sunk into the pocket, or protrude. then select a gasket that sets the assembled clearance at "almost nothing". Selective gasket kits are available from TA performance. You can also add a high volume kit which will help your pressure and let you run lighter oil, once you are satisfied that the engine is basically healthy. (note that my engine is this way, with the high volume kit I have about 10 psi at hot idle with 10W40).

And, since nobody mentioned it, if you have a conventional flat-tapped camshaft you need to run conventional oil with ZDDP additive, or the cam will probably fail on you.

Bob

thanks for help ill attach a couple pictures of my pump and motor. Im inspecting rockers and bearings first then installing a temp mechanical guage just to verify the 9-10psi at idle then ill tackle pump. And i dont understand are you talking about a thinner gasket be

VDO is decent, GlowShift sucks

there are some oil pump experts on here that can go into real details. But the first question is whether the front cover is stock GM, or aftermarket and whether it has a high volume kit or not. Post some pics of it.

To set clearance with out removing the front cover, you unbolt the oil filter adapter and lay a straight edge across the face of the gears to determine if they are flush, sunk into the pocket, or protrude. then select a gasket that sets the assembled clearance at "almost nothing". Selective gasket kits are available from TA performance. You can also add a high volume kit which will help your pressure and let you run lighter oil, once you are satisfied that the engine is basically healthy. (note that my engine is this way, with the high volume kit I have about 10 psi at hot idle with 10W40).

And, since nobody mentioned it, if you have a conventional flat-tapped camshaft you need to run conventional oil with ZDDP additive, or the cam will probably fail on you.

Bob

Im in palm desert california, maybe theres someone nearby. And how should i go about checking clearance on my oil pump? Also im using VDO electric gauge, any ideas on how to hook up a more reliable mechanical one?



yeah that sounds like alot and a whole lot more than my knowledge of these motors, ill inspect everything first rockers bearings etc. alsoo ordering parts for a temporary oil guage ill install at turbo inlet line, just to make sure my readings with the electrix one were accurate. After all that i will tackle the pump, updates coming.

Thanksfor advice im setting up a temporray mechanical gauge to verify 9-10psi then checking rockers and bearings, last ill tackle oil pump if need be. Did you mean a thinner gasket between pump and block or adapter and pump.?

I can't believe he mentioned having a Fram filter on the car and nobody commented on it......


NEVER (EVER EVER EVER!) run a Fram filter on these cars!! What you had was a shittly filter with a shitty anti-drainback valve causing the oil to drain from the filter while the engine was off.

Upon startup you had no oil until the pump could refill the bigger fitter burp the air out and get back on the clock. During that time your lifters got compressed and the ticking started.


I'm guessing after it started working again you could cut the car off, start it right back up and have pressure?


On your filters, get a Wix if you're at Oreillys, Mobil1 from Vatozone, PureOne from AAV, NAPA gold from NAPA, or Baldwin if you hang out at truck stops.

Put a quality filter on there and see how the car acts. If you want a little more pressure so you don't have to run gear dope in the oil pan, remove the large 1" nut next to the filter and find a thin 1/4 or 6mm washer than will fit in there perfectly and shim the relief spring a little.

Since if's over 100F where you at, staying with 20W50 might not be a bad idea until it cools off.


There's one other nuance with these cars that don't cross over to SBC's and the like.... A ''fresh'', ''new'', or ''rebuilt'' engine is rarely a good thing. When built right they can run 11s every day for hundreds of thousands of miles. I don't know too many people that spend the time money and effort to build one right, then dump the car.

Thanks for advice it was 107 today so 20w50 isnt to bad. Car also has loose clearences. I was doing some research on those fram filters and they do seem like junk, i was looking at getting an AC delco pf24 filter instead, and install that when i drop pan and check pickup tube for debris, i figure with a mechanical gauge for accuracy and heavier oil with a better filter my problems might be solvable.

 

[Whiteturbot87]

I can't believe he mentioned having a Fram filter on the car and nobody commented on it......


NEVER (EVER EVER EVER!) run a Fram filter on these cars!! What you had was a shittly filter with a shitty anti-drainback valve causing the oil to drain from the filter while the engine was off.

Upon startup you had no oil until the pump could refill the bigger fitter burp the air out and get back on the clock. During that time your lifters got compressed and the ticking started.


I'm guessing after it started working again you could cut the car off, start it right back up and have pressure?


On your filters, get a Wix if you're at Oreillys, Mobil1 from Vatozone, PureOne from AAV, NAPA gold from NAPA, or Baldwin if you hang out at truck stops.

Put a quality filter on there and see how the car acts. If you want a little more pressure so you don't have to run gear dope in the oil pan, remove the large 1" nut next to the filter and find a thin 1/4 or 6mm washer than will fit in there perfectly and shim the relief spring a little.

Since if's over 100F where you at, staying with 20W50 might not be a bad idea until it cools off.


There's one other nuance with these cars that don't cross over to SBC's and the like.... A ''fresh'', ''new'', or ''rebuilt'' engine is rarely a good thing. When built right they can run 11s every day for hundreds of thousands of miles. I don't know too many people that spend the time money and effort to build one right, then dump the car.

Also do you have part numbers on those other filters, and what is that bolt next to the filter ? Are you reccomending i just pull it out and add a spacer?

 

[ek02]

Im in palm desert california, maybe theres someone nearby. And how should i go about checking clearance on my oil pump? Also im using VDO electric gauge, any ideas on how to hook up a more reliable mechanical one?

I had a VDO electric oil pressure gauge and had 10 PSI at hot idle. I put in a manual VDO oil pressure gauge and now have 20 PSI at red hot idle. I don't trust electric oil pressure gauges. I have 70 PSI@6,000 RPM. A Napa Gold 1258 filter (Wix) will fit the RJC Biggie adapter. If you cut it open and then open a Fram, you will see a big difference in construction and materials.

 

[turbo chris1970]

The fact that you heard a tick to go along with the low gauge pressure means serious trouble.
What do you know of the history of the car....how extensive was the rebuild was the the shop that did the rebuild
familiar with turbo regal builds?

The low oil pressure that low is usually too much bearing clearance or worn out bearings.
was the oil pressure ok at first?

The condition of the front cover oil pump pockets are another place you can lose oil psi...
Hydraulic or solid lifter cam? Roller or flat tappet?

Since you are young and ambitious its about a 2 hour job to remove the oil pan and you can then
check some bearings and the oil pump pick up for debris.

remove the torque converter dust cover and then remove cross over pipe then the starter
then the 20 bolts that hold the pan, a little wiggling of the pan and it comes out.....sometimes u have to rotate the engine a half turn or so to get a rod out of the way....but its not a big deal to get it out.

I have seen these engines live on 10 pounds idle pressure but your borderline and you really
need 60 psi hot when the the engine is at wide open throttle.

I would be pulling valve covers to check for cam lobes wearing and the oil pan before I did
much of anything else.

And welcome to to the turbo regal world. Great cars.....there like a really hot woman....when all is right its fantastic
but you know there will be some drama along the way.....

Welcome to the site I did 3 years of research before I bought my turbo t the 231 is a whole different animal
Seriously when I start mine I have 60 psi oil preasure and on the highway as well these cars love the cold too, not trying to discourage you but run a 160 therm sort that engine out and get dual fans and big radiator transcoooler oil cooler whatever it takes to get her running cool good luck

 

[Whiteturbot87]

I can't believe he mentioned having a Fram filter on the car and nobody commented on it......


NEVER (EVER EVER EVER!) run a Fram filter on these cars!! What you had was a shittly filter with a shitty anti-drainback valve causing the oil to drain from the filter while the engine was off.

Upon startup you had no oil until the pump could refill the bigger fitter burp the air out and get back on the clock. During that time your lifters got compressed and the ticking started.


I'm guessing after it started working again you could cut the car off, start it right back up and have pressure?


On your filters, get a Wix if you're at Oreillys, Mobil1 from Vatozone, PureOne from AAV, NAPA gold from NAPA, or Baldwin if you hang out at truck stops.

Put a quality filter on there and see how the car acts. If you want a little more pressure so you don't have to run gear dope in the oil pan, remove the large 1" nut next to the filter and find a thin 1/4 or 6mm washer than will fit in there perfectly and shim the relief spring a little.

Since if's over 100F where you at, staying with 20W50 might not be a bad idea until it cools off.


There's one other nuance with these cars that don't cross over to SBC's and the like.... A ''fresh'', ''new'', or ''rebuilt'' engine is rarely a good thing. When built right they can run 11s every day for hundreds of thousands of miles. I don't know too many people that spend the time money and effort to build one right, then dump the car.

Also do you have part numbers on those other filters, and what is that bolt next to the filter ? Are you reccomending i just pull it out and add a spacer?

Welcome to the site I did 3 years of research before I bought my turbo t the 231 is a whole different animal
Seriously when I start mine I have 60 psi oil preasure and on the highway as well these cars love the cold too, not trying to discourage you but run a 160 therm sort that engine out and get dual fans and big radiator transcoooler oil cooler whatever it takes to get her running cool good luck

Coincidentaly i just spent the last couple hours putting in a 160 tstat, drover her hard and never hit over 192 in 100f weather, idle temp is about 170. Oil pressure is also up a smidge about 11psi hot idle, w/ 20w50. Installing a mechanical guage later this week because i believe its higher, VDO gauge inconsistent. Then a better oil filter that isnt my old fram one. Hoping ill see 20psi hot idle on the mechanical guage.

 

[87-WE2]

Forget the delco filter - it's only marginally better than the fram. Baldwin, wix, or napa gold. Spend the few bucks extra for either of those and your motor will thank you. Good oil filters are the cheapest insurance you can buy for your motor and wallet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turbo chris1970]

The fact that you heard a tick to go along with the low gauge pressure means serious trouble.
What do you know of the history of the car....how extensive was the rebuild was the the shop that did the rebuild
familiar with turbo regal builds?

The low oil pressure that low is usually too much bearing clearance or worn out bearings.
was the oil pressure ok at first?

The condition of the front cover oil pump pockets are another place you can lose oil psi...
Hydraulic or solid lifter cam? Roller or flat tappet?

Since you are young and ambitious its about a 2 hour job to remove the oil pan and you can then
check some bearings and the oil pump pick up for debris.

remove the torque converter dust cover and then remove cross over pipe then the starter
then the 20 bolts that hold the pan, a little wiggling of the pan and it comes out.....sometimes u have to rotate the engine a half turn or so to get a rod out of the way....but its not a big deal to get it out.

I have seen these engines live on 10 pounds idle pressure but your borderline and you really
need 60 psi hot when the the engine is at wide open throttle.

I would be pulling valve covers to check for cam lobes wearing and the oil pan before I did
much of anything else.

And welcome to to the turbo regal world. Great cars.....there like a really hot woman....when all is right its fantastic
but you know there will be some drama along the way.....

Welcome to the site I did 3 years of research before I bought my turbo t the 231 is a whole different animal
Seriously when I start mine I have 60 psi oil preasure and on the highway as well these cars love the cold too, not trying to discourage you but run a 160 therm sort that engine out and get dual fans and big radiator transcoooler oil cooler whatever it takes to get her running cool good luck

Also do you have part numbers on those other filters, and what is that bolt next to the filter ? Are you reccomending i just pull it out and add a spacer?



Coincidentaly i just spent the last couple hours putting in a 160 tstat, drover her hard and never hit over 192 in 100f weather, idle temp is about 170. Oil pressure is also up a smidge about 11psi hot idle, w/ 20w50. Installing a mechanical guage later this week because i believe its higher, VDO gauge inconsistent. Then a better oil filter that isnt my old fram one. Hoping ill see 20psi hot idle on the mechanical guage.

oh that's great glad to hear that when I bought my car I wrote a list of how I wanted it to run 160 was one of the first going fast is great but getting her modern and reliable was my first goal
It's so worth it when I'm on the highway going to the jersey shore I put on the AC and once I'm in cruise
The temp never goes 160 or slightly lower I live in philly so I'm 80 miles from the ocean it's a great ride plus a little race gas cleans out everything
City driving forget it I don't drive her in the city too many idiots btw in a few years you will know every part on that car trust me cherish that car man
No matter what don't sell her I get offers all the time I say I saved for this one I'm 46 this gray T I'm keeping till I'm twice as old

 

[turbo chris1970]

The fact that you heard a tick to go along with the low gauge pressure means serious trouble.
What do you know of the history of the car....how extensive was the rebuild was the the shop that did the rebuild
familiar with turbo regal builds?

The low oil pressure that low is usually too much bearing clearance or worn out bearings.
was the oil pressure ok at first?

The condition of the front cover oil pump pockets are another place you can lose oil psi...
Hydraulic or solid lifter cam? Roller or flat tappet?

Since you are young and ambitious its about a 2 hour job to remove the oil pan and you can then
check some bearings and the oil pump pick up for debris.

remove the torque converter dust cover and then remove cross over pipe then the starter
then the 20 bolts that hold the pan, a little wiggling of the pan and it comes out.....sometimes u have to rotate the engine a half turn or so to get a rod out of the way....but its not a big deal to get it out.

I have seen these engines live on 10 pounds idle pressure but your borderline and you really
need 60 psi hot when the the engine is at wide open throttle.

I would be pulling valve covers to check for cam lobes wearing and the oil pan before I did
much of anything else.

And welcome to to the turbo regal world. Great cars.....there like a really hot woman....when all is right its fantastic
but you know there will be some drama along the way.....

Welcome to the site I did 3 years of research before I bought my turbo t the 231 is a whole different animal
Seriously when I start mine I have 60 psi oil preasure and on the highway as well these cars love the cold too, not trying to discourage you but run a 160 therm sort that engine out and get dual fans and big radiator transcoooler oil cooler whatever it takes to get her running cool good luck

Also do you have part numbers on those other filters, and what is that bolt next to the filter ? Are you reccomending i just pull it out and add a spacer?



Coincidentaly i just spent the last couple hours putting in a 160 tstat, drover her hard and never hit over 192 in 100f weather, idle temp is about 170. Oil pressure is also up a smidge about 11psi hot idle, w/ 20w50. Installing a mechanical guage later this week because i believe its higher, VDO gauge inconsistent. Then a better oil filter that isnt my old fram one. Hoping ill see 20psi hot idle on the mechanical guage.

oh that's great glad to hear that when I bought my car I wrote a list of how I wanted it to run 160 was one of the first going fast is great but getting her modern and reliable was my first goal
It's so worth it when I'm on the highway going to the jersey shore I put on the AC and once I'm in cruise
The temp never goes 160 or slightly lower I live in philly so I'm 80 miles from the ocean it's a great ride plus a little race gas cleans out everything
City driving forget it I don't drive her in the city too many idiots btw in a few years you will know every part on that car trust me cherish that car man
No matter what don't sell her I get offers all the time I say I saved for this one I'm 46 this gray T I'm keeping till I'm twice as old and by the time your my age there will be even less especially the turbo t limiteds

 

[Whiteturbot87]

I can't believe he mentioned having a Fram filter on the car and nobody commented on it......


NEVER (EVER EVER EVER!) run a Fram filter on these cars!! What you had was a shittly filter with a shitty anti-drainback valve causing the oil to drain from the filter while the engine was off.

Upon startup you had no oil until the pump could refill the bigger fitter burp the air out and get back on the clock. During that time your lifters got compressed and the ticking started.


I'm guessing after it started working again you could cut the car off, start it right back up and have pressure?


On your filters, get a Wix if you're at Oreillys, Mobil1 from Vatozone, PureOne from AAV, NAPA gold from NAPA, or Baldwin if you hang out at truck stops.

Put a quality filter on there and see how the car acts. If you want a little more pressure so you don't have to run gear dope in the oil pan, remove the large 1" nut next to the filter and find a thin 1/4 or 6mm washer than will fit in there perfectly and shim the relief spring a little.

Since if's over 100F where you at, staying with 20W50 might not be a bad idea until it cools off.


There's one other nuance with these cars that don't cross over to SBC's and the like.... A ''fresh'', ''new'', or ''rebuilt'' engine is rarely a good thing. When built right they can run 11s every day for hundreds of thousands of miles. I don't know too many people that spend the time money and effort to build one right, then dump the car.

Also do you have part numbers on those other filters, and what is that bolt next to the filter ? Are you reccomending i just pull it out and add a spacer?

Welcome to the site I did 3 years of research before I bought my turbo t the 231 is a whole different animal
Seriously when I start mine I have 60 psi oil preasure and on the highway as well these cars love the cold too, not trying to discourage you but run a 160 therm sort that engine out and get dual fans and big radiator transcoooler oil cooler whatever it takes to get her running cool good luck

Coincidentaly i just spent the last couple hours putting in a 160 tstat, drover her hard and never hit over 192 in 100f weather, idle temp is about 170. Oil pressure is also up a smidge about 11psi hot idle, w/ 20w50. Installing a mechanical guage later this week because i believe its higher, VDO gauge inconsistent. Then a better oil filter that isnt my old fram one. Hoping ill see 20psi hot idle on the mechanical guage.

Welcome to the site I did 3 years of research before I bought my turbo t the 231 is a whole different animal
Seriously when I start mine I have 60 psi oil preasure and on the highway as well these cars love the cold too, not trying to discourage you but run a 160 therm sort that engine out and get dual fans and big radiator transcoooler oil cooler whatever it takes to get her running cool good luck

oh that's great glad to hear that when I bought my car I wrote a list of how I wanted it to run 160 was one of the first going fast is great but getting her modern and reliable was my first goal
It's so worth it when I'm on the highway going to the jersey shore I put on the AC and once I'm in cruise
The temp never goes 160 or slightly lower I live in philly so I'm 80 miles from the ocean it's a great ride plus a little race gas cleans out everything
City driving forget it I don't drive her in the city too many idiots btw in a few years you will know every part on that car trust me cherish that car man
No matter what don't sell her I get offers all the time I say I saved for this one I'm 46 this gray T I'm keeping till I'm twice as old

Welcome to the site I did 3 years of research before I bought my turbo t the 231 is a whole different animal
Seriously when I start mine I have 60 psi oil preasure and on the highway as well these cars love the cold too, not trying to discourage you but run a 160 therm sort that engine out and get dual fans and big radiator transcoooler oil cooler whatever it takes to get her running cool good luck

oh that's great glad to hear that when I bought my car I wrote a list of how I wanted it to run 160 was one of the first going fast is great but getting her modern and reliable was my first goal
It's so worth it when I'm on the highway going to the jersey shore I put on the AC and once I'm in cruise
The temp never goes 160 or slightly lower I live in philly so I'm 80 miles from the ocean it's a great ride plus a little race gas cleans out everything
City driving forget it I don't drive her in the city too many idiots btw in a few years you will know every part on that car trust me cherish that car man
No matter what don't sell her I get offers all the time I say I saved for this one I'm 46 this gray T I'm keeping till I'm twice as old

Great advice, i too made a list the day i brought the car home and all thats left is getting my oil psi accurate, getting a filter and rear coil springs. But i love this car, these TRs are unique. Ill attach a picture of mine,

 

[turbo chris1970]

Welcome to the site I did 3 years of research before I bought my turbo t the 231 is a whole different animal
Seriously when I start mine I have 60 psi oil preasure and on the highway as well these cars love the cold too, not trying to discourage you but run a 160 therm sort that engine out and get dual fans and big radiator transcoooler oil cooler whatever it takes to get her running cool good luck

oh that's great glad to hear that when I bought my car I wrote a list of how I wanted it to run 160 was one of the first going fast is great but getting her modern and reliable was my first goal
It's so worth it when I'm on the highway going to the jersey shore I put on the AC and once I'm in cruise
The temp never goes 160 or slightly lower I live in philly so I'm 80 miles from the ocean it's a great ride plus a little race gas cleans out everything
City driving forget it I don't drive her in the city too many idiots btw in a few years you will know every part on that car trust me cherish that car man
No matter what don't sell her I get offers all the time I say I saved for this one I'm 46 this gray T I'm keeping till I'm twice as old and by the time your my age there will be even less especially the turbo t limiteds

I'm going to bed it's late here in philly pa but I'll pm you with parts that will help you as best as I can

 

[ITSAV6]

Get the part number off the filter and cross reference to the wix. That "nut thing" next to the filter is the relief spring, shimming it will raise the pressure some.

 

[Whiteturbot87]

Get the part number off the filter and cross reference to the wix. That "nut thing" next to the filter is the relief spring, shimming it will raise the pressure some.

Ok and should i just put a washer behind the nut to shim it.? Any idea how much that would help oil pressure. ( and i went ahead and got the napa 1258 and the acdelco p245

 

[ITSAV6]

Take the delco back and get the napa filter, made by wix. You woll hafta ask earl about the shim thing, never done it.

 

[ek02]

You can use a 1/4-20 allen head bolt about 1/2" long from Ace hardware to insert in the spring on the cap end. That is what Kenne Bell used to use. It will not increase oil pressure at idle, only above idle pressure.

 

[mikestertwo]

Ok and should i just put a washer behind the nut to shim it.? Any idea how much that would help oil pressure. ( and i went ahead and got the napa 1258 and the acdelco p245

Shimming the pressure relief spring will not raise the pressure at idle. It will only raise the maximum pressure.

 

[Whiteturbot87]

You can use a 1/4-20 allen head bolt about 1/2" long from Ace hardware to insert in the spring on the cap end. That is what Kenne Bell used to use. It will not increase oil pressure at idle, only above idle pressure.

Thanks for reply, ill give it a try

 

[Whiteturbot87]

You can use a 1/4-20 allen head bolt about 1/2" long from Ace hardware to insert in the spring on the cap end. That is what Kenne Bell used to use. It will not increase oil pressure at idle, only above idle pressure.

So i got that allen head bolt in that size and now im just waiting to pickup my new filter but i wanted to know where the oil spring cap is, and if im drilling into it? How does the bolt work does it adjust pressure the more its turned or should i drill it in all the way into wherever this cap is? I assume behind or to side of filter?