Breaking back at WOT only

[earlbrown]

Are you spinning your engine over 6000 between shifts?

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Are you spinning your engine over 6000 between shifts?

No

 

[BEATAV8]

I changed the plugs again ngk r5671a-7 is what Im using and its the hottest in the non projected tip

Check the instructions / specs on the gn1 heads. My GN1's call for tappered seat plugs, not gasketed. Maybe yours are different?

if your heads call for tappered seat, I recommend the autolite AR472 / AR473 / AR474 14mm tappered seat 3/4 reach non projected tip with cut back strap.

heat range 7 you are using for the fuel and boost should be about OK. with more boost and alky you will probably want to go a step or maybe even 2 steps colder.

how much lift does that cam have? how much spring pressure open / closed? those behives might be a bit weak for the cam if you are running +.500-.510 lift.
see here:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/comp-springs-wtf.383720/page-3
PAC 1201 would be a good choice if you think the beehives are too soft.

fresh coil and module are a good idea.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc.asp+ic+10526918-12+eq++Tp+ This is the spring with cam kit from Fullthrottlespeed xr2 cam they recommend , my GN1 heads can use either plug , the cam is 530 545 lift . Im going to try the new coil and module and rule that out first before going any deeper . Thanks for the suggestions , I know everyone would love the outcome of this thread so I will keep you all informed .

 

[Eric Stage I]

what does it do at that rpm cut fuel off or ignition or both , does it studder or what ? I hope that is not what I been chasing !!!!

Fuel cut, sort of like a studder. If you plan to spin it that high, then we may want to remove the limiter.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Fresh set of plugs seemed to do the trick , I logged 3, 3rd gear wot runs , 1st one was volt booster still hooked up stock setting in TT chip , 2nd was volt booster removed and stock setting in TT chip , 3rd run was 2% wot fuel removed and 2deg timing removed , the 2nd run looked the best of the 3 , still rich on the wb at boost though , give me some comments . no alky was on ,pump gas only .intake air sensor in intake pipe after intercooler before tb

 

[BEATAV8]

Looked at 2 of your files, The knock sensor is really excited for some reason. But like you said plenty rich, and timing / boost are reasonably low.
Need to find out if that is false knock or real knock. I would try adding 100 octane race gas before adding alky. Basically get it running clean and proper on gas before adding alky.

is it making any undesireable sounds? Detonation sounds like taking a hammer to the pistons, and the spark plugs would let you know (I know you are looking at them)
if it's floating the valves, you will hear the valves popping shut against their seats making a TINK TINK sound. And the plugs will look fine, zero speckles.

26918 beehives 125lb on the seat and 367lb open.
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...e_Code=CC&Product_Code=26918-12&Category_Code=

PAC 1201 140lb on the seat 410lb open.
http://www.racingsprings.com/1200_Series/sku/78

those beehives are probably a bit marginal for that much lift (.530/.545). If you think it's floating the valves, you might try the PAC 1201's they worked a miracle on my engine running .516/.529 lift. You might even have to step it up to double springs like the PAC 1203's, depends on how much RPM you want to pull. If you go with the double springs you would need to also run the 885 lifters instead of 853's or morels.
I know those 26918 beehives would not cut it on my motor so I really think they are coming up short with your more radical cam.

if you have 1.65 ratio rockers they will compound a valve float issue.

Maybe Bison will chime in he's got a ton of experience on this stuff Im basically just regurgitating what I learned from him.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

is it making any undesireable sounds? Detonation sounds like taking a hammer to the pistons, and the spark plugs would let you know (I know you are looking at them)
if it's floating the valves, you will hear the valves popping shut against their seats making a TINK TINK sound. And the plugs will look fine, zero speckles.

There is no noise what so ever , plugs look fine and only turned it about 5200rpm so I do not believe that its floating the valves , pulls good . I going to try the racing gas and see if it stops the knock and see if it lean out the AFR at boost .

 

[BEATAV8]

There is no noise what so ever , plugs look fine and only turned it about 5200rpm so I do not believe that its floating the valves , pulls good . I going to try the racing gas and see if it stops the knock and see if it lean out the AFR at boost .

OK keep posting and we'll get her figured out. Remembering back when i was fighting valve spring issues, the noise was not too bad, could only hear it sometimes. I thought maybe my serpentine belt was doing something weird! Chances are whatever the knock sensor is hearing you can probably hear it too so keep listening.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Any comments on my logs ?

 

[BEATAV8]

Any comments on my logs ?

Just the knock retard, base fuel pressure is a bit high (it's driving the BLMs down), and it's a bit rich at WOT for the boost level and fuel type.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Got my new module and ho coil from one of our vendors, Highway Stars ,man they are fast , whats the best way to put the 6 stainless screws in coil to module , will they self tread thereself or do I need to tap them out ?

 

[jpwalt1987]

Got my new module and ho coil from one of our vendors, Highway Stars ,man they are fast , whats the best way to put the 6 stainless screws in coil to module , will they self tread thereself or do I need to tap them out ?

I always run a tap into it. I have broken screws trying to self tap them.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

I always run a tap into it. I have broken screws trying to self tap them.

Thanks