Breaking in a new motor.

[mikewest_08]

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[mikewest_08]

This is the cam I have.


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[EVIL]

Post a video of the so called ticking while doing a walk around the engine bay

D

 

[mikewest_08]

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[No disintegrations]

sumpin aint right!

Sounds like no oil to the drivers side due to wrong cam bearing. This just happened to someone else I believe. The fix was the cross over added the back of the block. God only knows why the 4.1 has a different oil passage design to that side. (no grove in block).

http://www.turbobuick.com/threads/bad-lifter-s-or-oil-problem.418676/

 

[vacuum 6]

Can't you verify this ^ by looking into the value cover breather hole?

 

[TURBOELKY]

Damn. I would take valve covers off and prime the engine. See if one of the lifters isn't pumping up. Do you have oil pressure? That isn't a "tick"...

 

[mikewest_08]

Yea 70 psi on start and around 20 ish when warm there is barley any oil on either head. And I did that cross on the back


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[turbofabricator]

I'm thinking its probably short push rods, there for no oil passage to the top, and clicking. Possibly way too long, bottoming out the plunger in the lifter, will also do the same symptoms, too. Verify pre-load is set at .030"-.060".

 

[TURBOELKY]

I think the 20psi hot is fine but something is going on in there. That sounds like metal on metal. That's not just a tick. Take the valve covers off and run the engine, see if any of the rockers are broke or out of alignment, or maybe not opening as much as the others. I wouldn't run it more that a few seconds to find the issue.

 

[mikewest_08]

K


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[Turbo6Smackdown]

Ever find out what this was Mike? The rpm's on this tick aren't fast enough for ticky lifters. This is either rotating assembly, or only one half of your valve train; and I think this may be in addition to a header leak you have goin on. When two different sounds combine, they can throw you off.

 

[MCH86GN]

Motor is fully assembled, setup and primed? If so, start it up, check for leaks, after reaching operating temp hit it with boost a few times to seat the rings...this procedure assumes full roller motor. Depending on engine builder you may or may not need to change oil. Cut open oil filter and check for the bad stuff. Install new filter, maybe new oil too.

My engine builder suggested that I drive put around 1500 to 2000 miles to break my engine in. Other people disagree saying it is not needed, but I will follow his recommendation because if something were to go wrong I can say I have followed your directions to a tee. I've got about 1000 more to go. This reason so the piston rings will set properly. However, I a couple of 10 to 15 psi, mid throttle he said wouldn't hurt. He said just don't go all out until the 1500 to 2000 mark. I will err on the side of caution and put the 2000 miles on. So far since getting my engine rebuilt, all I have done really is cruise. No place where I live to light them up. However, with an HD actuator it is tough to keep the boost under 20psi, so I have to watch it. Chip is a street chip burned for 18psi. So I probably won't get my 2000 miles up before winter. Once the 2000 mile mark is hit, I'm sending my chip to get burned as an alky chip and running 25lbs next summer. Can't wait. The only problem is I'm going to need some a bigger tires. Some MT DR Pro's.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Breaking in the engine depends largely on ring type and cylinder final finish - depending on the choices sometimes there is no break in anymore, but if the builder said to do that, then do that; he knows what went in that thing. And good luck keeping the tires planted. Mine's worthless on the street

 

[Chuck Leeper]

2000 mi for a break in???
Sounds to me as tho the "builder" is only delaying the inevitable....A tear down.
As for no place to " to light them up"...As long as you can put some load on the engine, there's no need for that.
Have you cut the filter open?
How about an oil sample?

 

[TurboBuRick]

I combed over this thread but I don't see what lifters are being used.

I had a set of morel short travel lifters in a fresh build that would not shut up. I was told they were not adjusted right. So I ran through adjustment again just to land exactly where they were before. They still hammered.

Long story short, I replaced them with 885's and problem solved.

 

[Wahoo]

Figure out the problem?

 

[Ttype6]

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HOLD YOU PHONE SIDEWAYS !

 

[MCH86GN]

I just got done building a new 4.1, and am wondering what's the best way to break it in? Also is it common for a double roller cam with hydraulic lifters to be a little tickie?


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What kind of rings did you use, I can hit the boost on engine, but my engine builder told me to wait until I got 2000 miles on my engine before letting loose. So I have 1000 more miles to put on it in the spring before I can turn up the boost.

 

[MCH86GN]

2000 mi for a break in???
Sounds to me as tho the "builder" is only delaying the inevitable....A tear down.
As for no place to " to light them up"...As long as you can put some load on the engine, there's no need for that.
Have you cut the filter open?
How about an oil sample?

Never mind.