Broke both #6 body bushing bolts off F$%^#%!!

Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
Well, I knew it was time to do some body bushing work, and didnt anticipate breaking the blessed bolts off, they were rusted to shit, and I guess I am not surprised. Well, so I thought I would run through the check list of items to take loose to allow me adequate room to lift the body off the frame 8 or so inches so I can get to the broken bolts. I do have one frame repair to perform on passenger side #6 so may as well do that work while the body is separated. I have performed complete frame off restore projects, but never one with the engine and trans and clip still on the car. So here is my checklist. See if anything is forgotten.

Unhook:

Light and engine harness
FMIC intercooler pipes
Transmission linkage
Emergency brake cables
Bumpers
Battery cable
Radiator coolant hoses
Steering midshaft
AC lines
Battery and cable
Brake lines
Heater hoses
ECM harness
Engine ground straps and anything attached to the firewall
Driveshaft loop
Fuel tank

Now, since only the #6 mounts need attention maybe I could jack up the back of the car since the mounts that need attention are in the back and have enough room to make the repair??? Anyone done this?

This would allow me to unhook ALOT less in the engine bay..
 
I think you'll have to cut slots in the trunk floor, open them up, and take the rusted nuts out that way
 
And yes I think you can jack up the rear of the body and leave the front alone. When I do these jobs I remove only the bumpers. Nothing else disconnected. But that's for just enough to swap bushings, not do any surgery.
 
I think you'll have to cut slots in the trunk floor, open them up, and take the rusted nuts out that way


yea, prepared to do that. We had these made aftermarket for situations like this. I think I will cut access holes to get to the cage diamond nut, drill the spot weld holding the diamond in and insert these in instead of trying to remove that bolt. This is if it doesnt come out with heat and vice grips. I think raising the body 4-6 inches off the frame will yield me enough room to weld in a new washer and por15. I will be posting pics along the way and the process so others can see
download
 
And yes I think you can jack up the rear of the body and leave the front alone. When I do these jobs I remove only the bumpers. Nothing else disconnected. But that's for just enough to swap bushings, not do any surgery.


Question, Did you remove the gas tank? Or leave it in? If left in where did you jack the back of the car from?
 
One of mine broke....and I said to hell with it. Cant remember which one. Maybe thats why my shit squeaks so much..lol..Good luck bro!
 
I also remove the bumpers, but keep an eye on power steering reservoir hoses as they may get tight when lifting the body, you can take the 2 10mm bolts out on inner fender bracket so it won't pull on it and crack/brake the reservoir.
 
If the nut isn't broken loose, I soak it w/ PB, wire brush it clean. I then screw a nut down on it, and weld the nut to the bolt. I always grind the end of the bolt and the face of the nut to get rid of any coating.
Hit it w/ the wire gun, and while still hot, screw the bolt on thru the nut. Only about 3-4 threads in the nut.
 
If the nut isn't broken loose, I soak it w/ PB, wire brush it clean. I then screw a nut down on it, and weld the nut to the bolt. I always grind the end of the bolt and the face of the nut to get rid of any coating.
Hit it w/ the wire gun, and while still hot, screw the bolt on thru the nut. Only about 3-4 threads in the nut.

Oh its much worse than that. That whole area is rusted and the bottom of the inside of the trunk pan is rusted out as well. Time to cut open the top side of the trunk pan to gain access to the bottom side of the trunk pan and weld some new material in for the body bushing to ride on. I had to do this on my 442 as well. Unfortunately this time the panel is in the car, will be a challenge.
 
Question, Did you remove the gas tank? Or leave it in? If left in where did you jack the back of the car from?
gas tank stayed in, as thumper mentioned the power steering reservoir needs to be unbolted. I forgot about that!
I jack one side at a time, left / right. 2X4 under the rocker panel.
 
pictures of the carnage, surgery will commence this evening.
 

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and its a good thing we have these made aftermarket now. Actually the whole damn trunk pan was created, but I am not going through all that. I think I can make a successful body mount trunk pan area again
 

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Well the bushings showed up, too bad I cannot put them in right away. Going to pull the passenger fender tonight and see if that will gain me enough access to repair the frame at the #2 spot.

Nice set of rubber bushings BTW
 

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This is about as bad as I have seen. I am surprised they are in this condition. This is pass side #2. Quite embarrassed actually to have these in my car. Bright sunny side of thinking....can only get better from here on out!
 

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I've done a lot of body bushings and you are right on with the list. I usually get away with only rear bumper and ps resevior and steering shaft, gas tank stays in. I have only had 1 bolt break on me and its directly under the pass door--I too said F it. I have a tote full of OE bushings that look like yours--don't know why I am holding onto them. I have 2 lifts and it makes the job much easier but it's doable on your back. I like to put 4x4's bewteen the frame and body at the rear wheel wells to save my fingers just incase.
 
time for surgery
 

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got all the bushings replaced with relative ease besides the spots that need repair. It was pretty easy to carbide burr the rot out of the frame and weld in a new washer at #2 pass side, but it involved removing the fender for access. If not for this I would be done installing the bushings. Tomorrow onto repairing drivers side #6 and then into the trunk to cut open the trunk pan to access the cage nuts and get both #6 bolted down.
 

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