buick stranded me in Tennessee, please help troubleshoot

[Turbosix]

My 87 GN (30,000 miles) stranded me in Tennessee. I had to have it towed 80 miles. So anyway, I was driving on the interstate, with the cruise control on about 70 when the car with out warning began sputtering, and feeling as though it were going to cut out. When I gave it gas the problem got worse. No check engine codes came on. I had to pull over and limp to an autoparts store to try to fix the problem. I swapped in a new coilpack, nothing. I tried a new chip, nope. I did the tap test on the mass air sensor, and couldn't detect any problems, but it was idling so crappily that I might not have been able to tell a difference.
So, any ideas?

Also, does anyone know of a good turbo buick mechanic in or around Nashville, TN?

Thanks

 

[Dusty Bradford]

check the crank sensor and the bolt that holds the balancer to the crank. If the metal ring behind your balancer is not running in the right place it will do what you described. The ring should pass through a gap in the sensor so if your balancer bolt is loose the balancer and ring will try to come off the crank and this ring will not pass through the gap in the sensor.

I'm 2 hours away but Bill Ragland is in shelbyville. There are several people in the nashville area that are familiar with these cars so maybe they will see your post and answer.

 

[TURBO 6]

I had the same problem before. It was the module. It would run fine until the car ran for a while then it would do as you described. Mine also left me in another state. I had to leave it on side the road, go home get a trailer, and come back to get it. the whole ordeal was over 24 hrs straight. I was ready to sell it when I got back. I know exactly how you feel. Good luck.

 

[turbojimmy]

Did you swap out the module along with the coil pack?

Fuel filter? FPR?

Vacuum hose pop off somewhere (it would have to be big)?

Up pipe pop off?

Just some ideas.....

Jim

 

[John Larkin]

There's a guy on here named "national" from Nashville. His sig shows his car running pretty strong; he might be able to help. Send him a quickie email and give your phone number. Matter of fact, post your phone number here; lots of us have free weekend cellphone minutes and could maybe help. Sucks about the bad timing; next week hundreds of TR owners would be within 45 minutes of you at BG. How is your fuel pressure?

 

[TurboDave]

Two distinct possibilities. My first guess would be the MAF "bit the big one".
And no, they don't always thow a code!!

Possibly the coil module, but that may be a more remote possibility.

 

[Orion231]

Ignition Module...

Mine did the same thing, I was cruising down the interstate heading home from college, and I had notice a very miniscule hesitation that occured every few miles, just a slight drop in power at first I though tit was the road or the wind, so I pulled over and checked everything, couldn't see a problem, so I kept going, then about 30 minutes later, WHAM...it started really bad, hesitating, and cutting out, no smoke, just power loss, I broke down on Exit 231 on I-45 in Corsicana, Texas. I had to tow the vehicle home 400 miles, but Dad came and picked me up and we used a trailer to tow her home. Got home, and the very first thign I did was inspect teh ignition module...lots of bubbles, so I replaced it, and no more problems since. The ignition module was made in 1987 orginal with the car, so I couldn't complain.

 

[Steve Wood]

Module, maf, crank sensor in that order would be my guesses. If it runs better cold, I would think module for sure.

 

[S10xGN]

Got home, and the very first thign I did was inspect teh ignition module...lots of bubbles, so I replaced it, and no more problems since.

<LOL> What's up with the bubbles? I've never heard of that kind of check before... Please enlighten me - inquiring minds want to know!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

BUBBLEZ??

Russ, the module can actually melt inside and cause bubbles to find their way out, especially if the gasket is fubar.
Just had one here that was like melted bubblegum. When I tested it, and found it bad, I opened it up and the potting material ran out!! It too, had the 87 tag on it.....

 

[TurboPhil]

Taping on a dead MAF won’t tell ya anything (if its DEAD-DEAD) but if ya unplug the MAF and it runs better then you found your problem, works every time.
Phil.

 

[Turbosix]

Thanks for all the replies

Thanks for all of the replies. I will check out the suggested possible culprits and get back with you.

Thanks,
turbosix

 

[Turbosix]

Checked a couple of things out

I started the car up this afternoon and it was still idling and running the same as before.
-does this tend to indicate that it is not the module since it runs poorly even when cold?

-I disconnected the maf and the car idled quite poorly and would stall eventually if I let off the gas for about 10 seconds. This however is exactly how the car idled when in the past I have had the maf disconnected (back when the car was in fine running order). Also of interest (forgot to mention originally) there is a fairly strong gasoline odor out the tailpipes (no smoke just gas smell). This gas smell was gone when the car was running with the maf disconnected. I don't know if that is even remotely helpful, but I thought I would mention it in case one of the GN gurus knew something I don't. I took a look inside them maf just to see if anything had blown apart and was obviously screwed up, but nothing looked out of the ordinary.

All of the hoses/clamps are connected snugly (up pipe maf pipe etc)

If I do have to replace the maf should I just go ahead and upgrade to one of the new maf's like the impala SS with maf translator? Any other suggestions would be a help.

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, or a scan tool.

Thanks again.

 

[Steve Wood]

The rich smell kinda sounds like the maf...the module may be also dead on two cylinders and those may add to the smell. The fact that it did not smell so rich with the maf unplugged is suspicious.

You really need to find someone to do some quick swapping with.

 

[Eds87GN]

Can I help?

I've got some extra parts like maf,coil pack,module, etc..

If I can help, let me know.


Ed

 

[Turbosix]

I swapped out the coilpack module, no change

I swapped out the coilpack, and module, but the car still runs the same. Maf sensor maybe?

How do I access the crank sensor. I have never had to mess with it before, but I picked up a new crank sensor from the parts store, just in case that was it. Is there any other way to tell if the maf has gone south without a code?

Also, since to me this smells like maf sensor troubles what is the best way to go about replacing it. Supposedly new mafs are almost totally unavailable, and the remanufactured units never are calibrated right. Should I just cahnge to the impala maf or the ls1 maf with translator.

Any advice would be a help.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[Carolinaturbot6]

Matt, I think it would be wise to bite the bullet & order a maf & translator. It would be advisable to at least try & find someone who could let you try their good maf just to be sure, but if that's not possible then go ahead & order yourself a maf/translator. Sooner or later, you'll probably need one anyway. Good luck.

 

[sr71gn]

you really should check your fuel pressure- i had to have my car towed 100 mi home once and it turned out to be the fuel pump- on several occasions prior to this the car had cut out- it would always start up and run the next day- this time it would start but barely run and i had to keep pumping the gas just to keep it running- i couldnt move it without it stalling out- if your car starts the crank sensor is probably alright-good luck

 

[Black Demon]

Replace that crank sensor 1st.

My car did the exact same thing yours did. Went in to limp-home mode about 10 miles from the house. Started troubleshooting and found my MAF sensor was bad and my crank sensor was marginal. Borrowed my buddies maf sensor, but car still was in limp-home (Pouring thick gas-filled smoke out of the tailpipe). Checked voltages at the ignition module and ECM and signal was weak from the crank sensor. Replaced crank sensor and it ran great. Of course, no codes were thrown.

Someone had posted a troubleshooting procedure on the board that really helped me nail the problem down. It gave voltages at the pin numbers of the ignition module and the ECM. Search under "no-start condition" and see what pulls up.

 

[QuickWE4]

I'll bet it's the module because..

Not that it's even in the same ballpark, but when the IC module went on my 85 Riv, it would ONLY act up when it was hot.

I could drive it for 30 minutes with no problem and then WHAMMO. Sputtering, knocking, bucking, blah blah blah only under load.

Rich