Build Time

[83turbomon]

they are NOT complicated. not like the damned VW watercooled engines of the recent years! nor the DOHC v6s or v8s with timing BELTS and hundreds of cogs n wires goign which way....
it takes a little time to find things, but with this resource board, and the expertise, it can't be as hard as troubleshooting a foreign engine whose support line is in Pakistan or something like that >,.>

Compared to the engines ive worked on in the past... Mostly straight sixes, and old skool v8s with pretty simple parts. v6s are kinda new to me.

 

[charlief1]

Someone probably said this already, I hate all that reading, but the BUICK standard 3.8 block from the same years will work W/O the turbo return hole. SOME builders have said they like them better sense they haven't been beat on as hard usually...

Glad to see you come for a visit big bud.:biggrin: I do have to agree with you on the NA blocks not being abused as much, very good point.

Just remember to try and get one from a 78 and later but the 81 and up are a little better blocks from what I remember.

 

[83turbomon]

Glad to see you come for a visit big bud.:biggrin: I do have to agree with you on the NA blocks not being abused as much, very good point.

Just remember to try and get one from a 78 and later but the 81 and up are a little better blocks from what I remember.

Ill keep that in mind. My friend just literalty threw away a v6 from an 83 with everything but a starter. Little upset, but it aint that big of a deal.

 

[charlief1]

Compared to the engines ive worked on in the past... Mostly straight sixes, and old skool v8s with pretty simple parts. v6s are kinda new to me.

They're not any harder but they are more technical. You really have to know how to build one if you want it to live. Study harder on what you need to do so you know it fowards and backwards.

 

[CamoDeafie]

dude even compared to the old straight 6s and v8s, the v6s arent THAT complicated. the only thing i can think of is the addition of vac hoses and turbo hoses, BUT you could find the same thing on a turbo'd v8 or 4 cylinder from the early 80s...oh yeah,
SMOG stuff is the extra stuff, BUT working on a smog era v8 would've helped you find out which part is which...as the buick v6s are basically the same thing as the v8s before the smog era....with some differnces and addition of emissions control thigns, which complicated everything in that era IMO. have y worked on a mid 70s Ford or Chrysler with the cali smog equipment all added on? honestly....just because youve worked on farm truck 6s or 60s v8s or smog-delete v8s doesnt make the v6 anything more complicated; you just gotta learn and study....grab a version of the book i have, Chilton AUto Repair manual, 1978-1985 for 1985, PN 7470 US and Canadian models, it WILL help ALOT. (i've one for the ciera, but it includes all the RWD platforms) its got helpful sections on emissions controls, turbochargers, placement of things not usually found in Haynes, torque specficiations, lots of info for the engines, actually, it will be very useful for you as a reference for the v6s as in which car had what engine options, and ID'ing which engine is which....and then theres the huge section on the variety of carburetors used by all the companies; VERY useful info!
knowing is half the battle man......rebuilding an engine takes time yes, but knowing what you need will save some time simplest thing, look at the v6 as a smaller version of a v8, with all the emissions stuff OFF the thing. then put it piece by piece and most of the emissions controls i know of, the AIR injection pump, the Charcoal EFE or EECS system, and sensors are the add ons for some engines...which can be removed and wont hurt the engine, but will hurt the emissions check >.>

 

[FlintBuick4Life]

dude even compared to the old straight 6s and v8s, the v6s arent THAT complicated. the only thing i can think of is the addition of vac hoses and turbo hoses, BUT you could find the same thing on a turbo'd v8 or 4 cylinder from the early 80s...oh yeah,
SMOG stuff is the extra stuff, BUT working on a smog era v8 would've helped you find out which part is which...as the buick v6s are basically the same thing as the v8s before the smog era....with some differnces and addition of emissions control thigns, which complicated everything in that era IMO. have y worked on a mid 70s Ford or Chrysler with the cali smog equipment all added on? honestly....just because youve worked on farm truck 6s or 60s v8s or smog-delete v8s doesnt make the v6 anything more complicated; you just gotta learn and study....grab a version of the book i have, Chilton AUto Repair manual, 1978-1985 for 1985, PN 7470 US and Canadian models, it WILL help ALOT. (i've one for the ciera, but it includes all the RWD platforms) its got helpful sections on emissions controls, turbochargers, placement of things not usually found in Haynes, torque specficiations, lots of info for the engines, actually, it will be very useful for you as a reference for the v6s as in which car had what engine options, and ID'ing which engine is which....and then theres the huge section on the variety of carburetors used by all the companies; VERY useful info!
knowing is half the battle man......rebuilding an engine takes time yes, but knowing what you need will save some time simplest thing, look at the v6 as a smaller version of a v8, with all the emissions stuff OFF the thing. then put it piece by piece and most of the emissions controls i know of, the AIR injection pump, the Charcoal EFE or EECS system, and sensors are the add ons for some engines...which can be removed and wont hurt the engine, but will hurt the emissions check >.>

x2... this took a few minutes to read tho:biggrin:

 

[83turbomon]

x2... this took a few minutes to read tho:biggrin:

x3 , i get the message, but its alot to cram in the ol noggin...

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Ok OK..

I think if we can get this freight figured out, I can get you this NA 3.8

A.j.

 

[charlief1]

Well I offered him the 060 block, rods and pistons for $200, but he's got to come get them. Then all he'd need is a crank.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

Well I offered him the 060 block, rods and pistons for $200, but he's got to come get them. Then all he'd need is a crank.

well i got the pull out from the skyhawk...

i dont really need it?

A.j.

 

[charlief1]

I'm thinking about machine costs. This would save him a bunch in the long run I'd hope. He won't need to worry about blowing the block since he's not modifying it really.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

I'm thinking about machine costs. This would save him a bunch in the long run I'd hope. He won't need to worry about blowing the block since he's not modifying it really.

this bad boy runs. drove the car around on it, low milage 3.8 pull out that I dont have the heart to blow the guts out of...

A.j.

 

[charlief1]

this bad boy runs. drove the car around on it, low milage 3.8 pull out that I dont have the heart to blow the guts out of...

A.j.

You win Aj.:biggrin: Something he can just put in while he fixes the original one is much better.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

You win Aj.:biggrin: Something he can just put in while he fixes the original one is much better.

lol... either way....... theres a southwest trip involved or some frieght time!

A.j.

 

[83turbomon]

A cutlass supreme engine should work shouldnt it? Found One for 120 bucks...

 

[charlief1]

A cutlass supreme engine should work shouldnt it? Found One for 120 bucks...

What year and what size kid. I'd love to see you end up with a 4.1 engine. Good price if it's a V6 Buick.:biggrin:

 

[CamoDeafie]

awesome price if it happens to be a 455 lol.

 

[83turbomon]

What year and what size kid. I'd love to see you end up with a 4.1 engine. Good price if it's a V6 Buick.:biggrin:

its a 3.8. i believe from an 82... I need instriction on how to pull the engine...

 

[CamoDeafie]

Haynes method
1)disconnect battery
2)disconnect wiring parts from engine to firewall,
2)a) get esc and pevr over to a member
3)take all water hoses and AC hoses off
4)take power steering pump line(s) off
5)get a lift; unbolt transmission bellhousing bolts
6)transmission jack underneath the trans bellhousing, get a floor jack underneat hthe engine
7)undo the engine mounts.
8)installation is reverse of removal.

now....charlief1 and other can do a better job lol, this is a very generic method, the Haynes method which does not take in account the exhaust stuff, the sensor stuff, or anything else....

 

[83turbomon]

Haynes method
1)disconnect battery
2)disconnect wiring parts from engine to firewall,
2)a) get esc and pevr over to a member
3)take all water hoses and AC hoses off
4)take power steering pump line(s) off
5)get a lift; unbolt transmission bellhousing bolts
6)transmission jack underneath the trans bellhousing, get a floor jack underneat hthe engine
7)undo the engine mounts.
8)installation is reverse of removal.

now....charlief1 and other can do a better job lol, this is a very generic method, the Haynes method which does not take in account the exhaust stuff, the sensor stuff, or anything else....

im tempted to take it and just cut sh*t off. My car should have whatever is damaged.