You can type here any text you want

Built 3.8 vs 4.1 vs stage2

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Better watch.....you might get flagged for saying that..... But, to your point, totally agree! Would never do another v6.

It's funny.....The last time I posted something very similar to that "they" (Nazi SS.....police) deleted it.
 
The 6.5 long rods in the 1st option are too long. The JW flywheel is known for being too thick and pushing the torque converter hub too far into the pump rotor which drives the rotor into the back of the pump in the transmission. This will destroy the pump.
Unless you know the measurements that are crucial to calculating the compression ratio,you don't know what the actual compression ratio is. Since you run ethanol,you'll want to know that you have a good amount of compression ratio. Somewhere in the 9.2 to 9.6 area is good. The best way to get the best set-up is to build a new combo with good compression and a cam to take advantage of it.
 
Better watch.....you might get flagged for saying that..... But, to your point, totally agree! Would never do another v6.

It's funny.....The last time I posted something very similar to that "they" (Nazi SS.....police) deleted it.

Lol that was kinda the point
 
11 years old
If that's the kinda time you had with the motor doing what you want with it you can't ask for more.109 done right with a good tune and the right car is all one will ever need,stage is an overpriced waste unless you want to push 1000hp,and at that point you have a race car anyway,and dont think for a second it wont break at that hp level.all of it does eventually,yes even ls motors do too.but in the end if you get a good deal on the right piece that should be the deciding factor inmo.
 
As far as the 109 vs stage 2 or TA the Stage and TA stuff has priority mains, head bolts at 12 and 6, stronger block, etc. Now with that said just because its a stage block doesnt mean they are all ready for 900-1000+ HP. There were several iterations and many are prone to cracking, core shift, etc.
I disagree with this a little.

A poorly cast block is a bad block for any performance build, stock or stage block. All blocks should be checked before a big build. But all things being equal, every single stage casting of any variety is better than any stock casting, 3.8 or 4.1........ period!

That being said, any non-spent stage block can contain 1000 HP if built well with the good stuff. And for those that don't know what truly goes on behind the seen, trust me on this. Only the smart and lucky can ever do that with a production block and not for long.
 
"Since you run ethanol,you'll want to know that you have a good amount of compression ratio. Somewhere in the 9.2 to 9.6 area is good. The best way to get the best set-up is to build a new combo with good compression and a cam to take advantage of it. "

Great point.....this seems to be something that's overlooked by many people when considering a new build.
 
How fast are you going to spin it? seems with the center mains walking you had it going pretty fast and that crank got to "noodling" and the block/mains couldn't contain it. The smaller the stroke the less it will flex theoretically. Or the fancier block might be able to contain a long stoke spinning it up there.

You say street car, and I'm all about that. But when you get to spinning it real fast and have some spark knock , and the destruction ensues. Maybe not all at once but a repeated beating will not end well.
 
Back
Top