Cam install Question
- Thread starter Texas gn
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If you are using a double roller or roller style timing chain, I am pretty sure the tensioner spring and tensioner pad will need to be removed. This is on the passenger side, lower part of the block.
Are you using the stock spring and button to keep the cam pushed back in the block?
Are you using the stock spring and button to keep the cam pushed back in the block?
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
- Messages
- 4,261
Things to be aware of on a Buick V6 cam replacement:
1) Deburr oil hole on the thrust face of the cam, or it can (and usually does) wear a groove into the block thrust face.
2) Make sure you clean the cam real good prior to install.
3) use red Locktight on the cam bolt threads
4) Use a Hydraulic roller cam, not a flat tappet
5) use an oil squirt can to pump auto trans fluid into the roller lifter prior to install (through the side oil feed hole)
6) Use a hydraulic roller cam
7) degree the cam to verify that it is installed correctly
8) Use a hydraulic roller cam and lifters
9) Torque the lower pulley/balancer bolt to 225 ft./lbs
10) use a hydraulic roller cam
11) Port the timing cover oil passages
12) set the oil pump gear thrust clearance to .0005"-.0015" (TA performance has a shim kit that helps)
13) use a hydraulic roller cam
14) use a quality double roller chain
15) use a roller cam
16) pack the oil pump gears with Vasoline on final assembly
17) Pay attention to lifter pre-load and shoot for .030"-.040"
18) use a hydraulic roller cam.
19) When going with ported heads, roller cam, ect., I would suggest roller rocker arms to get your lifter pre-load right on.
20) use a cork oil pan gasket with a coating of "The Right Stuff" on both sides.
21) use a hydraulic roller cam
22) change the rear main seal while you have the oil pan off to a neoprene seal, and use "The Right Stuff" for the side seals
23) If I didn't mention it.................Use a Hydraulic Roller Cam.
24) With a hydraulic roller, there is no break in required. Start it up, check for leaks/issues, then drive it like you stole it!
25) ditch the chain tensioner as stated earlier.
26) Make sure your brakes are working good. You'll need 'em.
27) Feel free to PM me for my number for any verbal coaching you may need. But it's just nuts and bolts.
28) prime the oil pump with a drill spinning clockwise as viewed down on the engine. (a SBC oil pump priming tool works great)
29) Have FUN.
30) Use a hydraulic roller cam. (I had to add one more to make it an even 30)
1) Deburr oil hole on the thrust face of the cam, or it can (and usually does) wear a groove into the block thrust face.
2) Make sure you clean the cam real good prior to install.
3) use red Locktight on the cam bolt threads
4) Use a Hydraulic roller cam, not a flat tappet
5) use an oil squirt can to pump auto trans fluid into the roller lifter prior to install (through the side oil feed hole)
6) Use a hydraulic roller cam
7) degree the cam to verify that it is installed correctly
8) Use a hydraulic roller cam and lifters
9) Torque the lower pulley/balancer bolt to 225 ft./lbs
10) use a hydraulic roller cam
11) Port the timing cover oil passages
12) set the oil pump gear thrust clearance to .0005"-.0015" (TA performance has a shim kit that helps)
13) use a hydraulic roller cam
14) use a quality double roller chain
15) use a roller cam
16) pack the oil pump gears with Vasoline on final assembly
17) Pay attention to lifter pre-load and shoot for .030"-.040"
18) use a hydraulic roller cam.
19) When going with ported heads, roller cam, ect., I would suggest roller rocker arms to get your lifter pre-load right on.
20) use a cork oil pan gasket with a coating of "The Right Stuff" on both sides.
21) use a hydraulic roller cam
22) change the rear main seal while you have the oil pan off to a neoprene seal, and use "The Right Stuff" for the side seals
23) If I didn't mention it.................Use a Hydraulic Roller Cam.
24) With a hydraulic roller, there is no break in required. Start it up, check for leaks/issues, then drive it like you stole it!
25) ditch the chain tensioner as stated earlier.
26) Make sure your brakes are working good. You'll need 'em.
27) Feel free to PM me for my number for any verbal coaching you may need. But it's just nuts and bolts.
28) prime the oil pump with a drill spinning clockwise as viewed down on the engine. (a SBC oil pump priming tool works great)
29) Have FUN.
30) Use a hydraulic roller cam. (I had to add one more to make it an even 30)
larrym
West Coast Newfy
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2007
- Messages
- 1,285
Things to be aware of on a Buick V6 cam replacement:
1) Deburr oil hole on the thrust face of the cam, or it can (and usually does) wear a groove into the block thrust face.
2) Make sure you clean the cam real good prior to install.
3) use red Locktight on the cam bolt threads
4) Use a Hydraulic roller cam, not a flat tappet
5) use an oil squirt can to pump auto trans fluid into the roller lifter prior to install (through the side oil feed hole)
6) Use a hydraulic roller cam
7) degree the cam to verify that it is installed correctly
8) Use a hydraulic roller cam and lifters
9) Torque the lower pulley/balancer bolt to 225 ft./lbs
10) use a hydraulic roller cam
11) Port the timing cover oil passages
12) set the oil pump gear thrust clearance to .0005"-.0015" (TA performance has a shim kit that helps)
13) use a hydraulic roller cam
14) use a quality double roller chain
15) use a roller cam
16) pack the oil pump gears with Vasoline on final assembly
17) Pay attention to lifter pre-load and shoot for .030"-.040"
18) use a hydraulic roller cam.
19) When going with ported heads, roller cam, ect., I would suggest roller rocker arms to get your lifter pre-load right on.
20) use a cork oil pan gasket with a coating of "The Right Stuff" on both sides.
21) use a hydraulic roller cam
22) change the rear main seal while you have the oil pan off to a neoprene seal, and use "The Right Stuff" for the side seals
23) If I didn't mention it.................Use a Hydraulic Roller Cam.
24) With a hydraulic roller, there is no break in required. Start it up, check for leaks/issues, then drive it like you stole it!
25) ditch the chain tensioner as stated earlier.
26) Make sure your brakes are working good. You'll need 'em.
27) Feel free to PM me for my number for any verbal coaching you may need. But it's just nuts and bolts.
28) prime the oil pump with a drill spinning clockwise as viewed down on the engine. (a SBC oil pump priming tool works great)
29) Have FUN.
30) Use a hydraulic roller cam. (I had to add one more to make it an even 30)
Is using a hydraulic roller a good idea? The instructions are a little vague........... :biggrin:
I am planning on using the stock spring and cap. Yesterday I got both heads off and my back could not take it anymore! (number one cylinder’s head gasket was gone!)Tonight I will try and get the timing cover off and see what I have….. Is there timing marks on the cam and crank that line up? I have been giving the roller cam a lot of thought too, but is it really worth it? I have read that they can be very noisy as well. Is there any info out there on how much they help over the flat tappet style. Thanks for everyones input.
turbofabricator
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2004
- Messages
- 4,261
The only down side to a roller cam is the additional cost. Yes, there are timing marks that line up on the cam and carnk gears. But....be sure to degree the cam so you can verify it is correct. Full THrottle has a nice roller cam kit with everything, less the timing chain. Sett cam thrust clearance is a bit time consuming especially in the car. Use ARP head bolts when intalling the new head gaskets. Have the heads ported if not done so already. That with a hydraulic roller will net you a BIG gain in mid to upper range power. You WILL be AMAZED at how the car pulls with ported heads and roller cam. Then add a bigger turbo in the future for another FUN bump in power. Lots of guys on here can help you through the build.
All of the parts should arrive today except for the ported champion heads which are shipped from the factory. I went ahead and pulled the engine out of the car last night…..that laying over the fender is not for me anymore! Can’t wait to see how it runs when it is done. I will pull the oil pan and clean it too.
Turbo-Archie
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2002
- Messages
- 1,529
