I gearing up to replace what I think is a blown head gasket on my TTA. If a leakdown test and a visual inspection reveal all that went wrong was a head gasket failure then that is what I will replace. At that same time I am going to replace the cam and lifters and the timing chain set. I was considering the 208/208 hydraulic camshaft that Full Throttle sells as an upgrade replacement. Any comments or suggestions regarding camshaft selection?
Cam Selection
- Thread starter AKTURBOTA
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I like the 212/212. Have had great results with it. Talking hyd cam. Actually this new 221/221 works pretty good too.. :biggrin:
Car is not sensitive to cams. Heads are another thing. Any cam.. same In/EX will work the same. 206/206-208/208-210/210 etc...
Watch your spring pressures. Target 90-100 lbs.. and note the TTA rocker is a 1.67 when calculating lift for spring selection.
Car is not sensitive to cams. Heads are another thing. Any cam.. same In/EX will work the same. 206/206-208/208-210/210 etc...
Watch your spring pressures. Target 90-100 lbs.. and note the TTA rocker is a 1.67 when calculating lift for spring selection.
Just out of curiousity, is there any downside in choosing the 212/212 cam? I have always been very conservative in choosing cams for my hotrods in the past...especially since they have been street/strip cars. I am on a budget, so I am going to go with a non-roller cam...especially in the event that more damage was done when I "blew a head gasket" and I willl have to dig deeper into my wallet.
In terms of HP and Torque, what kind of increase would the 212/212 give over the stock TTA cam?
In terms of HP and Torque, what kind of increase would the 212/212 give over the stock TTA cam?
83ttypecooled
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timing chain
Hi,
Didn't PAS install a roller set on our motors? They stretch a little, but don't tear up the cam gear or break.I know, as long as you are in there...
Hi,
Didn't PAS install a roller set on our motors? They stretch a little, but don't tear up the cam gear or break.I know, as long as you are in there...
83ttypecooled said:
No they didnt.. one could only wish. Unless the motor is on Ebay
If the stock cam is ok.. leave it in there.. unless your needing to move the power band on the car.
Ie.. you install a 67 turbo.. then you install a 3400 converter.. now the car runs at mid 5000's for RPM.. installing a bigger cam will help. If your shifting at 4800-5000.. the stocker is fine. Careful what ya ask for.. as longetivity with aftermarket cams has always been of a concern.
Gain and how long it will last... two differnt issues.
The timing chain.. you need to get rid of the plastic tooth one. Now what to replace it with.. thats a loaded question. I run a progear on mine... do a search.. make your decision accordingly.
If the car is going to go faster.. it will need heads and cam. If your ok where its at.. leave it alone. The faster you make it.. the more unreliable it will be.
Whats wrong with putting on a set of HG's and reassembling the motor.. your not done yet?
Making mountains out of mole hills
Well I can say that the com 212/212 idles and drives just fine in a nearly stock engine. Haven't made it to the track with it yet though so can't tell you what it will do performance wise. Need to do the tranny before that can happen. (It's always something with my car)
83ttypecooled
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roller
Hi,
Some minor block machine work, for one. What else, guys?
Hi,
Some minor block machine work, for one. What else, guys?
3.8TransAM
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I'm running a 210/210 roller in my TTA.
As far as maching work goes, I cant answer that one.
I know its not cheap cause the only real choice u get are the billet cams.(I will leave out the Precision econo-roller) Note
my friend has well over 100k on an econo roller however)
Ran somewhere around 900$ or so in total.
Figured it was worth it to me, I never wanted to play around with flat cams and the like.
Went for relaiblity and performance.
I could afford it than too lol
later
Jeremy
As far as maching work goes, I cant answer that one.
I know its not cheap cause the only real choice u get are the billet cams.(I will leave out the Precision econo-roller) Note
my friend has well over 100k on an econo roller however)Ran somewhere around 900$ or so in total.
Figured it was worth it to me, I never wanted to play around with flat cams and the like.
Went for relaiblity and performance.
I could afford it than too lol
later
Jeremy
AKTURBOTA said:
Money. No machine work. You will need pushrods tho... special ones.
Cams are way over-rated... I run a hyd flat tappet POS cam.. what do I know
JDS TTA runs a cheapo flat tappet 212/212 Comp cam.. geesh 11.03 at 126.. what was he thinking..
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JD/Julio what do you guys spin you motors up to? I am looking at getting a 212/212 Flat Tappet for my car along with some Champion Irons & Intake. Just wanting to pick some of you guys minds on which cam would be good for some mid 10s.
Thanks
Rob Hinson
Thanks
Rob Hinson
Rollers are not required but I now have three freinds running roller cams, Ive driven all three cars on the street, and raced 2 of them at the track. The two things they all have in common is that all three run hard with out alot of boost, and none of them have had any problems with them. Two of them ran 210/210 with 110 degree lobe separation angle that where ground and installed "straight up". The third runs a 210/215 with 110 degree lobe separation angle and is also installed straight up. All three:
1. idle real nice
2. drive and respond like a stock cammed motor
3. can run pretty hard with relatively low boost levels
4. will pull hard to 6000 rpm
5. they dont have to be reved to 6k to run good.
Two of them would knock around in the mid 10's at only 23 pounds and conservative timing. The third only made one pass and went 11.29 at only 19 pounds and shifting at 5200. Shifting at around 5800 to 6000 and upping the boost to 23 pounds should get the car in the mid 10's.
The third car which is running the 210/215 roller was actually pretty reasonably priced. This is a Austemper roller set up and comes as a complete kit for $799 from Mike Licht at full throttle speed ( a supporting vendor).
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/customkititems~kc~001BUROLLER.htm
If you're dead set on not going with a roller then I would recommend the speed pro 204/214. Guys are haing real good luck with these cams not wiping lobes. This is a huge point you can't over look. I have had friends wipe lobes on the Comp Cams. I personally bought a shortblock off a buddy and the Comp 218 wiped a lobe in less than a day. It seams like one of the Comp Cams will either wipe in 500 miles or less or it will last just as long as any other cam. Personally I have horrible luck and know which group I would fall into, and then I would have to go spend money all over again. The 204/214 speed pro seams to be working real good for guys and feed back on them all say that cam has a broad power band. Reds Hot Air ran into the low 10's at 130+ mph with an ecno build up in his GN using this cam. He also says he was not running a crazy amount of boost, and I believe him. This could be a very good selection for a stock headed set up. Its small enough that you wouldn't have to have ported heads for it to operate properly, and its big enough that if you ever did have your heads ported going well into the 10's should not be a problem.
HTH: Jason
Lunkan said:
Roller lifter is different than a hyd lifter.. remember the roller lifter is taller..
Hows about you change the cam.. you also best check geometry on the rockers for issue's.. cuase to get the correct preload.. you need the correct pushrod.. Cam101 roller or non-roller
Postal... How heavy were your friends cars?
Latly.. you havent touched the rocker issue on the TTA.. specially when dealing with higher lift cam scenario's.. always cuase one thing is suppossed to be better.. consequences are never thought through... we're not dealing with a Buick here..
Geesh.. these Buick guys think they know it all :biggrin:
