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Cam swap in progress need some info plz

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86GN-862+2

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2008
Messages
500
Well I've had nothing but headaches with my car since I got it. Replaced maf, plugs and wires, cleaned out radiator, fpr, rocker shaft passenger side, resealed windshield, new speakers, carpet, door panels, new tires, new chip, steering wheel, mark viii fan and now a cam thanks to the one lifter eating it up. Took it apart to do cam swap and pan gasket is not vin 7 stuff, roller cam button spring broke off, water port clogged up with crap rear driver side and most bolts were loose to boot. I got a 208/208 cam as replacement and need to know if stock valve train works with this cam or guides need machining?? Got correct gasket set this time at least. Just don't want to put it all together and mess it up. I can say whoever rebuilt this engine prior to me purchasing it did not know Buicks well enough. I think it is marginal but also will the cam work well with stock convrtr? Thank very much in advance guys!
 
The 208 will be a little lagy with the stock converter but not bad.
The cam should be a direct bolt in.
When you recover give Dusty a call, I bet a 2600-2800 10inch would wake things up.
 
Great! I will Look into that converter after thanksgiving, Xmas, new years and good ol' property taxes. That will be march or so. April is marriage anniversary. Just can't seem to hold on to funds here lately! Thank you again for your quick reply. My mind is at ease now. I should be enjoying my car next weekend!! Yeah baby!!
 
Just make sure you don't crank the motor with out proper lubrication.
Also make sure you don't have any leaks or anything.
Once you fire the motor on a new standard cam you don't want to kill it
until the cam is broken in.
 
You got it. I will use oil additives to make sure no excessive wear happens to the cam. Then once broken in I will post up the results. Looking forward to next weekend already or maybe even this coming Thursday lol!
 
Found the cam button to be broken. The spring broke off the roller end. At least the timing cover did not get eat up. Should have all back together today if nothing else goes wrong.
 
Ok guys. I need to know how the heck to stab the cam sensor back after the oil pump shaft moved upon removal. Will it be easier to take the oil pump out and stab the shaft into the cam sensor after it's in? This is my first cam change on a TB. I feel silly but I wasted too much time today and could not get the darn thing to go in all the way. Save your "that's what she said" jokes. LOL! Thanks
 
You need to turn the oil pump drive shaft so it lines up with the cam sensor. Do you have the instructions on how to set the cam sensor?
 
You need to turn the oil pump drive shaft so it lines up with the cam sensor. Do you have the instructions on how to set the cam sensor?

Yes I got the instructions printed up but could not get the oil pump shaft to slide into the cam sensor. I'll try what you suggested tomorrow. I got a home made cam sensor tool as well to degree the cam sensor once it is in. Thank you very much for your help!
 
I did turn the shaft trying to line it up. I used a screwdriver. It's just that it almost goes in but seems to bind and stop about 1/8" from bottoming out. I'll take the oil pump apart and turn it from there ... Right? Possibly?
 
No, just turn the shaft with your screwdriver until you get it. You can look at where the bottom of the cam sensor will be then compare to the oil pump shaft, then add for the amount it turns as it goes in. Should only take a couple tries.

John
 
Well crud Another half day wasted. I align the oil pump shaft with the screwdriver and cam sensor with dot on gear towards pass fender and nothing! I do this over and over and even rotate the crank shaft back and forth and nothing! I'm wondering if the timing chain cover may be misaligned upon installation. Evenrything went smooth except for the freaking cam sensor. Got the balancer at 25• mark and all. It just need to go in another 1/4" bur it hits metal. Anyone wants this car?? LOL. JK! Next thing on my mind is to possibly remove the oil pump and go from there.
 
problem

#1 if you line them up-the gear will rotate some when dropping in
#2 remove the o-ring from the sensor shaft and see if this helps.
Can you reach the oil pump drive shaft and rotate it? If so you are wasting your time removing the oil pump.
Some times (with a new o-ring ) you have to use your palm and TAP it down. You can tell if it is hitting metal or just tight.
The shaft has to engage the oil pump shaft and the o-ring is a tight fit.
 
Are you going to check the bearings to make sure no metal went through them? I ate a lifter and there were somce scratches in the crank and bearings.
 
No just flushed it out and go. Whoever did the previous rebuild on this thing just plain did a lot of things wrong. I am finding out as I go. I'm going to just drive as is until I can do another rebuild but this time I'll take it to someone who knows these engines.

It turned out to be that the o-ring was hard as heck due to the drop in temp last nite. Finally got the darn thing in. Hopefully everything was hooked up right. I'll find out tomorrow. Placed crank at TDC, went 25• ATDC and stabbed the cam sensor in. Then, turned c-clockwise till the LED tuned off and finally went clockwise till light turned on them off and and backed it till light was on again and clamped it down. Right??

Thank you all who posted up very much!
 
Good luck bro, I am looking forward to a report tomorrow!!!
 
Finally got it all back together yesterday. Rechecked everything today and fired it up. No leaks I could see. All looks good but still need to adjust preload and don't have shims right now. Gotta find some before I can take it out and see what else it might need. Just let it idle for a good half hr or so tightening the rockers as needed every now and then without overdoing it. Got new antifreeze while I was at it. Crap! I hate waiting.
 
Had a major mishap with a family situation. Got the car running and it is making an unusual sound as if the timing chain(double roller) with tensioner was trying to jump off the gears or something. I say this cause there is a loud thumping sound coming from inside the engine seemingly. I am wondering if anybody ever had this happen to their car. I am thinking either a misaligned gear or a possible bent camshaft. As for the valvetrain parts, the shims are a must since there is excessive load on the lifters. I guess the heads were shaved some on the last rebuild?? I don't know for sure. The cam does seem to lag even on park while trying to revv it up. Weird. Starts right up though run good except for the low RPM noise and shaking. Sounds like something is fixing to break. Bummer!
 
the stock rockershafts don't need to be tightened or adjusted as the engine warms up, I'm not sure what you are describing.

The double roller chains should not be installed with the stock "tensioner". They should be pretty snug out of the box.

When first firing a flat tappet cam, you do NOT let it idle. If you have good oil pressure, you hold it over 2000 RPM for the first half hour or so. If you have oil pressure issues or overheating you shut it off.

How did you align the cam and crank sprockets? what brand of timing chain?


whats the noise sound like? is it louder cold or hot, idling, reving up or down?

If its 'laggy' revving in neutral, then I think you have some other things happening. Do you have a scantool to check for sensor readings and trouble codes?

Bob
 
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