Can someone tell me how this works "Upper and Lower control arms boxing kit"

[chris kirk]

I have the body off the frame. Can someone please tell me how to "box the frame out." Is using the boxing kit from HR a good idea? What else should be done before it gets powder coated?

 

[cork]

Im not an expert on this by any means but I believe the control arm boxing kit strengthens the upper and lower control arms. Basically flat pieces of steel welded over the seams on the control arms to keep them from flexing. The frame boxing kit is used to strengthen the mounting points for the control arms. I have seen others box in the middle section of the frame rails where the frame rails are thinner. I guess your goals for the car would dictate what is necessary.

 

[charlief1]

Boxing the center of the frame stiffens the chassis up quite a bit. You can get the parts from GNS. The center section of the frame is made in a U channel and the metal is thin. The mounting of the bushings tie everything together which is suppose to allow for a solid base, but if you've looked at new vehicles that have a real frame, they now have boxed frames.

Boxing the arms will stiffen the arms so they don't flex as much either.

 

[aminga]

The HR boxing kit has a plate that gets welded over the upper and lower control arms. One could argue that the uppers don't need it as much since they are in tension. They also provide a washer that gets welded over the bolt holds to keep them from pulling out. Unless you want to adjust the pinion angle it's a cheap effective way to stiffen the rear.

I've gone 1.58 on stock boxed control arms.

 

[chris kirk]

The HR boxing kit has a plate that gets welded over the upper and lower control arms. One could argue that the uppers don't need it as much since they are in tension. They also provide a washer that gets welded over the bolt holds to keep them from pulling out. Unless you want to adjust the pinion angle it's a cheap effective way to stiffen the rear.

I've gone 1.58 on stock boxed control arms.

What happens if I need to adjust the pinion angle. I'm using a 9" Ford rear and I have read that the pinion angle will need to be adjusted. Is that correct? Thanks for the advise.

 

[chris kirk]

Boxing the center of the frame stiffens the chassis up quite a bit. You can get the parts from GNS. The center section of the frame is made in a U channel and the metal is thin. The mounting of the bushings tie everything together which is suppose to allow for a solid base, but if you've looked at new vehicles that have a real frame, they now have boxed frames.

Boxing the arms will stiffen the arms so they don't flex as much either.

Great, I just looked them up.

Thank you.

-Chris-

 

[aminga]

What happens if I need to adjust the pinion angle. I'm using a 9" Ford rear and I have read that the pinion angle will need to be adjusted. Is that correct? Thanks for the advise.

If you're using a 9" ford rear end then you probably don't have stock control arms

 

[chris kirk]

If you're using a 9" ford rear end then you probably don't have stock control arms

Yes, that's correct. I have HR lower, adjustable upper control arms and their sway bar. Is that boxing kit only for use with stock upper and lower control arms?

 

[cork]

The boxing kit is used to strengthen the stock control arms, not needed with aftermarket control arms. The frame brace kit could still be used to strengthen the mounting points on the frame for the control arms.

 

[chris kirk]

Thank you all.

-Chris-

 

[turbofabricator]

I used 3.5"x 3/16" thick plate the length of the frame rails to box them in. Layer them on the lower wider frame section then welded it to the upper flange. Then welded it to the lower flange. Welded a few inches at a time. I also added cross members before boxing to maintain correct dimensions. I had tack welded about four 2" x 2" bars across the frame. I also narrowed the rear frame rails by cutting them in half and then (after cleaned ng them up) I hammered them into the other section of frame. Then MIG'd it all up. I also added a perm cross bar on the rear cross member. Then added another 1"x 1" heavy wall aft of the spring perches.

 

[chris kirk]

I used 3.5"x 3/16" thick plate the length of the frame rails to box them in. Layer them on the lower wider frame section then welded it to the upper flange. Then welded it to the lower flange. Welded a few inches at a time. I also added cross members before boxing to maintain correct dimensions. I had tack welded about four 2" x 2" bars across the frame. I also narrowed the rear frame rails by cutting them in half and then (after cleaned ng them up) I hammered them into the other section of frame. Then MIG'd it all up. I also added a perm cross bar on the rear cross member. Then added another 1"x 1" heavy wall aft of the spring perches.

Thanks. Have any pictures?