Bought this virgin block almost a year ago in this condition. Was told that it was dropped and now I'm interested in building it. So... 1st things 1st, I need to get it repaired before machining. Does anyone have any ideas or experience with something similar? I want to hopefully fix it once. I've been told that nickel rod might do it but I've also heard of stitching and Muggy Weld? I need some professional opinions please. Hopefully a reputable engine builder will help me out. If anyone needs some more pics just email me. Clendmik@aol.com Thanks!
Can this block be saved? *Disclaimer*Do not open if you have a bad heart.
- Thread starter turboclam
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Id say it could and should be saved. A professional welder should be able to grind fillets and fuse it together with most likely nickel. Its not affecting the critical areas anyway. One positive thing is that its virgin and hasnt been saurated in oil yet. The welder will still have to super heat the area to be welded prior to welding to remove any oil from the porous cast iron. The finished weld can be dressed off and the block painted so you wont even be able to tell it was repaired.
67turboCamaro
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Call Ray at 502-645-7444, He can fix anything and will do it the right way for the application.
67turboCamaro
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He is in central KY. Not sure how he would fix that one, he would have to answer that. He pinned my block, but may do that one differently.
Lee Thompson
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simple fix
where are you located?
where are you located?
novaderrik
Well-Known Member
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a little bit of Gorilla Glue and you are ready to run...
of course i'm not being serious..
of course i'm not being serious..
Lee Thompson
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pics
I would like to see some smaller pics. (I be somewhat slow) If that is only a corner near the starter pad broken off and does not go into the crankcase area or water jacket, I have fixed a couple like that.
I would like to see some smaller pics. (I be somewhat slow) If that is only a corner near the starter pad broken off and does not go into the crankcase area or water jacket, I have fixed a couple like that.
I'll try to send some via email. How would you repair? Digging into this a little... there are a few opinions out there and some new technology. I would love to find someone in Atlanta that I could drop it off with. Shipping costs would be about $200 round trip. I value your insight. Thanks
turbofabricator
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Send it to Cast Iron Repair in Marysville Wa. That is ALL they do. And they do it right for guys all over the world. I have had them repair cylinder heads with FANTASTIC results. Cast Iron MUST be welded at a RED HOT state or it WILL have stress risers that will kill it later. The process he uses is to pre heat the part to a red hot condition in an oven and then oxy acetylene welds/TIG welds the repair area with cast iron rod while it is still red hot and being heated all along, then he puts the part (block in this case) in a thermal blanket and covers it with sand to let it slow cool for 12-24 hours. Then he shot blasts the block and grinds the weld down and sends it back to you good as new.
Cast Iron Repair
16129 Smokey Point Blvd # A
Marysville, WA 98271
(360) 657-7660
Cast Iron Repair
16129 Smokey Point Blvd # A
Marysville, WA 98271
(360) 657-7660
dr_frankenstein
Mad Scientist
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+1 on this place........ they have done some excellent repairs for me in the past. long t way to ship... but a great last alternative.
A.j.
From the opinions on the board and after making a few phone calls it seems to be confidently repairable... so I would rather take a chance and get it repaired. I just want it repaired the right way 1st. It was dropped by a shipping company and I got it pretty cheap so here I am. Otherwise I would just build another 109. This would probably be my only sensible chance to build a stage motor. Thanks for all of the opinions guys! Michael
m233roller
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Yes, Fix it. Heck we were fixing blocks like that years ago when I was a counter man at Spalding wrecking here in WA. Had a fellow (Art) that could weld damn near anything and we had quite afew come out of cars with the corners broke off like that and old Art would take them and do his welding wonders on them. NEVER had one engine come back that he welded up and he did some pretty nasty ones.
Anthony P
sharing knowledge with those who care to listen
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remember the stage blocks have a higher nickel content than production blocks. the powersource manual goes into some detail on this.
Since the repair is in a non-critical area, any certified welder or shop can easily do the repair. Look locally for a certified shop. That way you can keep the block close and even hand deliver it. Keeping it local also allows you to keep an eye on it.
We did a similar repair to a 4X stage II block (on-center) where part of the bell housing was removed and half the starter pad was removed to clear the upswept Indy headers when Buick and McLaren were playing in the early '80s. Not a problem to fix when adapting that engine for street car use.
Since the repair is in a non-critical area, any certified welder or shop can easily do the repair. Look locally for a certified shop. That way you can keep the block close and even hand deliver it. Keeping it local also allows you to keep an eye on it.
We did a similar repair to a 4X stage II block (on-center) where part of the bell housing was removed and half the starter pad was removed to clear the upswept Indy headers when Buick and McLaren were playing in the early '80s. Not a problem to fix when adapting that engine for street car use.
