Cant Hook

johnplogii makes a good point about tires. I'm using the 28" tall, 9.5" wide P275/60R15 ET Street Radial which is fine for my power level (proabably around 125HP less than you). As strange as it sounds, I've never heard of anyone say that the Bias-ply ET Street works better than the radial. Now those 28.0/10.5-15 ET Drag slicks would be worth notching your frame for! I wouldn't consider any less than that if I were at your power level.

It really looks like your body roll is forcing the passenger side tire down hard and lifting up on the drivers side. Do you think it's lifting enough weight off of the drivers side tire to get it spinning? It looks like it to me... I have a feeling you're going to love your anti-roll bar (when I say "love," I mean you're going to uninstall it daily to take it to bed with you).

Putting in the trick springs in when you're going to pull them right out again to put the stock ones back in with your anti roll bar? You must be really anxious to get to the track!
 
Tires

Now thats funny about the sway bar, I don't care who you are.

I think you all are correct about the tire, and I will try to launch a little softer to see the results, maybe even a gool 'ol foot brake launch. I put these tires on to run in our local 10.5" true street class. Their are guys running these tires running 5.80's in the 1/8 mile.
True Street Rules look at the tire rule.
.: Texas Raceway - Kennedale, Tx :. , select the true street 10.5 class.

When I weld in the swar bar I have to remove the springs anaway to weld in the bar. And yes, I will put the stock springs back in with the sway bar, or mabe even some moog stock replacements.

I only wanted to give the trick springs one more try so I could respond with results. My goal in doing this stuff is to provide people who read these treads information about parts and setups for thier suspension so they don't waste money like me.

One more note I feelings on my front compitition engineering drag shocks.
JUNK, They are a pain to adjust and their weak mounting bracket is bent a little. The rod diameter is small and they don't seem to control the front suspension, like their under sized. By this I mean the diameter of the piston is too small. MY OPINION ONLY.
 
Almost poped motor

Turned the boost up from 17 to 26 and almost poped the motor tonight. The line to the hobbs switch for the second fuel pump poped off. Went lean but motor is ok. I'll get a good 60' if I have to put monster slicks on and run 30 psi boost. I'm determined now...
 
Soon, Very soon

Got slicks and tubes in :D and rim screws installed in new 10" draglights 5.5 bs, will mount tires on rims tomarrow. Frame notch started and anti roll bar ready to be installed. If every thing goes as planned I'll be back on the track the 5th of next month, with results.

I am taking pictures and writing a paper on notching the frame for others.

Selling all old stuff in the parts section.
 
Tubes

I went with the tubes to stiffen the side wall. I am hoping it stiffens the sidewall enough. I kept going back and forth on the stiff sidewall slicks, but decided to go with the regular slicks with tubes. It was tough to drill that first hole in a perfectly new rim.:eek: I had to drill out the valve stem hole to 5/8 also.I didn't realize that was necessary when running tubes. I did every thing right. Grade 8 rim screws, baby power on tubes before in stall. You should have seen the guys face when I handed him the baby powder at the tire place. I was being funny about it, I just handed it to him and stood there for a min.:D before I explained what it was for.

I don't think the rim was slipping inside the tire on the old wheels.
 
Getting close pics

Pics
 

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tire slip

turboterry87gn,
I have been following this thread as I have been trying to fix my own 60' problems. I am curious to see how the wider wheels work for you so make sure you keep us updated.

When I started out this year I had 60' times averaging 1.66 with the following set up:

Aluminum lower control arms with energy suspension bushing
ATR rear sway bar
Air bags (no air but they were in springs)
Lakewood 50/ 50 rear shocks
BMR adjustable upper arms
Pinion angle -2
AVO 3 -way front shock set on 90/ 10
Stock replacement front springs (front end seemed really stiff)
MT 28x 10.5 S (stiff side wall) slicks on 8" wide weld wheels with no tubes, 13 psi hot
Launching off the transbrake "on the mat"

The last time out I averaged 1.52 60' with the following changes:

HR sway bar
HR lower control arms
Remove air bags from springs
QA1 12 way adjustable rear shocks (5 clicks up from soft)
pinion angle -2.75
12 psi hot in slicks
changed front springs to moog number 5598.

For those curious about tire slip, I am attaching a photo of how mine slipped from my last track outing a couple of weeks ago. The white line on the tire started out in line with the valve stem. Each time I checked it slipped about 3/4"~1". I made 6 passes that night.
 

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Results

Well I finished the frame notch and installed the sway bar and adjusted the preload.
The new tires are MT 28 x 10.5 x15 et slicks with tubes, the wheels are weld drag lights 15 x 10 x 5.5 bs. They fit very well and look much better with out the bulging sidewall.

I made it out the the track on the 5th and my first pass was a little better, but the engine was missing badly under high load. 1.605 60 foot with a 6.827 1/8 mile at 97 mph. I was running 25.5 psi average boost but I need to replace the plugs. The car just didn't pull on the top end very well. I usually run thoes times at about 20 psi. I was expecting a 1.50x 60 foot as I left at about 20 psi but the motor was acting up. I was hoping for a 6.6 in the 1/8. No videos this time.
Be back to the track on the 17 of this month with videos.

The tire pressure was set at 13 psi just a starting guess and the Qa1 shocks were set at 4 clicks CW from zero.

I good thing is this is my best 60 foot so far, the bad thing is is cost me $800 to do it:eek:
 
Too bad about the motor... but congratulations! Can't wait to read about your first 1.5x 60'.
 
Ignition Missing @ 25 psi

Well I removed the plugs to take a look at them.

Ohm'd the wire 558 to 633 ohms except numer 1 fluctuates 1 to 20 k ohms has a bad connection at the ciol side snap connector. I also ohmed the ciol towers. 1,4: 11.92 k ohms; 2,5: 11.47 k ohms; 3,6 10.70 k ohms .
open from any tower to ground and open between adjacent coil packs.

Does this 10.7 k ohms fall within spec? on 3,6 tower.

Any reccomnedations for new wires. I runnig some spiral wound old ATR wires now. I was thinking the Taylor 10.xx mm spiral wound wires on summit racing site.
 
10.7 kΩ is a little low, however doing a resistance test on the coilpack won't always reveal a faulty coilpack. You need a coilpack tester. I keep a spare coil to test since these problems are a such a pain in the neck... As for the plug wires, I like MSD 8.5mm (MSD-31869) and recommend against Magnacor. I went through two sets of Magnacor 10mm Race wires in less than a year. They just can't stand up to the heat. Even when using dielectric grease, the connector pulls right out of the boot.
 
Coil tester

How does the coil tester work is it like a megger checking the dialectric strength of the varnish on the winding of the coils?
 
The coilpack tester from Casper's Electronics (John Spina) triggers the ignition module so you can watch the three coils firing across spark gaps on a plate that sits on top of the coilpack after you remove the plug wires. He also sells a set of three spark gaps that you can put in the plug wires so you can include them in the test. I too hate the Magnecores, and like the AC Delco wires either for the GN or the TTA (some say they fit better).

Paul at HR Partsnstuff sells a pair of air bag spacers that he says will really help cars that hook then rebound just after the launch, which sounds like your problem. I know you have made major changes and will probably not use the airbags any more, but it would be worth sending him an email to see what he thinks about your problems.
 
i know someone on the board just cant think who right now has coil packs for cheap. and as far as plug wires russ meritt/RJC are awsome.
 
Coil pack

I got the new Accel coil pack in.
it reads 12.7 k ohms, 12.65 k ohms, 12.56 k ohms on the secondary, and 0.9 ohms on the primary. Maby the old coil was bad also.

The temps here are cool and if it dosen't rain tomarrow I'll have some track time updates and hope fully some video if I can get someone to come to the track.
 
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