Car acting funny?

[scojack_2001]

I just recently upgraded my GN. Here's a quick rundown.

Precision TE-61 journal bearing w/ HD gate and RJC valve
ProTorque 9.5" 3200-3400 billet convertor
MSD 50# injectors with new TT 5.6 alchy chip. 23°/21° 23-25psi
some suspension upgrades
Also deleted EGR valve & solenoid and factory wastegate solenoid.

Now it seems the car doesnt want to idle. TPS setting is in check, (low side might be a tad high) and IAC seems fine. I can mess with it if need be. Maybe its just that the new chip has open-loop idle, but it seems my GN want to stall sometimes. Really idling rough. Also the INT pegs to 160 sometimes and the BLMs seem stuck at 142. Also seems to have a hesitation when you crack the throttle, while leaving from a stoplight for instance.

Everything else is good. When you lay down the gas at 30mph, it runs great.

Just thought you guys may have some insight. Maybe be able to provide some PL logs, IF I can make my laptop cooperate...

Thanks,

Scott

 

[notacarlo]

I don't see the most important modification of all...a scan tool.

It would be easier if you posted some numbers for us to look at. Without that, there's a million things a 20+ year old car can throw at you.

Scratch that....how the hell could you read BLM's without one? I'm a little slow today. Post up a log of the car idling weird.

 

[WLDWST]

Eric's @ Turbotweak's words:

The very first time you run the car on the new chip after an ECM reset, it will stay in closed loop idle mode, which can sometimes cause a little stumbling. Everytime after that, it will use open loop idle (unless the ECM gets reset).

I ran into this for the first few startups with my new alky chip. It works great now. I used to unplug my orange wire for security, and couldn't get the chip to work. Always stumbled off idle and I couldn't figure out why. lol. Needless to say, the wire stays hooked up now.

 

[darkred87T]

It sounds like how mine used to run. I went nuts looking for vacume leaks and never found anything. I wish I could help you but I'm not convinced I solved my problem yet as the car now runs pig rich. Are you sure you sealed up the EGR bypass plate properly. It could be sucking air.

Subscribed for updates.

 

[scojack_2001]

I don't see the most important modification of all...a scan tool.

It would be easier if you posted some numbers for us to look at. Without that, there's a million things a 20+ year old car can throw at you.

Scratch that....how the hell could you read BLM's without one? I'm a little slow today. Post up a log of the car idling weird.

I'll see what I can do. No gaurantees though.

 

[scojack_2001]

Eric's @ Turbotweak's words:

The very first time you run the car on the new chip after an ECM reset, it will stay in closed loop idle mode, which can sometimes cause a little stumbling. Everytime after that, it will use open loop idle (unless the ECM gets reset).

I ran into this for the first few startups. It works great now. I used to unplug my orange wire for security, and couldn't get the chip to work. Always stumbled couldn't figure out why. lol

Its better now that Ive driven the car a few times. The coilpack and module are original, and Ive been meaning to check them.

Have you cehcked forva vacuum leak? IAC counts can read in the range even if you have a vacume leak. BLM's are high usually becuase it's adding fuel to try and compesate for a lean condition.

I did mess with the EGR valve. I removed it and put a block-off plate on. I just put the vac line onto the open port and was done with it. Maybe I hooked it up wrong? I also think I have a leak at the block-off, I can kinda hear something there. I'll pick up some Ultra Copper and reseal it tomorrow. All the vac lines were replaced with silicone in August 2007, shortly after I bought the car.

Here's a pic of the only vacuum line I touched. It comes from the firewall at a three way vacuum tee to the front of the engine.