My car has always run perfect. I have never had it hiccup or run anything but perfect. I was driving home cruise set at 45 and it stalled. It didnt cough and hiccup just a little gargle and then wouldn't start. I checked all the fuses. All were fine. When I turned the key to the on position the pump would prime and shut off as normal. I thought it was an ecm fuse at first but it checked out. I tried to crank it about 5 times. Temp was fine and no lights. I got it towed home and when I got home I put a FP gauge on and it went to 40psi. I thought well Ill try to crank it and see what happens on the gauge. It cranked right up like nothing.
I just had the same thing happen to me and turned it to be the fuel pump failed.I had a hood mount fuel gauge and could see the fuel pressure fall off and the car would just die.I let it sit for about 5 mins and would start right up and pressure would be at 40 psi but let it run for a few mins it would start falling off and die again.I even drove it off the flat bed tow truck and into the shop. I bought another new pump and so far( knock on wood ) its running great.
the coil pack sits on the module,theres only one.I think before you buy anything i would try to figure the problem out first.The fuel pump will give you the exact same problem.And we know theres alot of bad walbros out there.
The only place i could find one local was advance auto parts.but i think kirbans carry them.. Maybe pete [phoff] could help you out.. My local gm dealer didnt even have a part # said they would have to get outside .. So i dont know if oem is still out there.. And its what your coil plugs into at the bottom or under
parts store will test your module for you,o'relly has a 3 faze tester have them run the test 2 or 3 times to put enough load(heat) in to simulate running on the car. a lot of time the jell in the module will turn to gue.good sign its bad also fuel pump a good theory also
what fuel pump do you have?Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?
Try this crank it up and let it temp cycle a few times for every thing to get good and hot.(if it stays running that long ) watch fuel gauge and see if it starts to drop.If it doesn't go for a test drive around the block several times making the fuel pump work harder.If it dies leave the KEY ONand pop the hood and see if fuel pressure has dropped to 0.If it did then you have ether a clogged fuel filter or a bad pump.
Thanks for the help everyone. I am going to get a new FP relay today since its cheap. I will pull the coil module and go to oreilly as suggested and see what I get there. I think I have a new or near new accel coilpack. I am not sure about the age of the module.
If that doesnt locate an issue Ill go after the FP next even though it is a recent Walbro 340.
That idea about cam sensor is out there also. If there is an easy test to eliminate that Id like to know what to do.
You guys have been awesome. I greatly appreciate the help. Ill get home later and start.
I decided to warm it up after I changed out the go relay. After idling and going around the block it threw a 41 code and failed to start. I am pretty happy I think I found it. I got one from aguy on the for sale here.
Can I just mark the positions onthe top and wheel and match it?
By the way the wheel is firm and looks good under the cap.
I got new OEM cam sensor. I looked at my old wheel on the sensor and it looked solid. I figured if I just put the new cap on it would start. It didnt. I changed the sensor following the directions above. Still wont start. I clearly have a no spark condition and did prior to all of this.
I am kind of stumped since I did get a bad cam sensor code and then it wouldnt start.
One thing I noticed is I only got 4.3 volts on terminal B. I was following this no start tree no start tree. It says I need 6-9 volts. I dont have them. I am little confused but does it look to you at 12-14 on that page it blames the coil module if the voltage is off?
With the key on, did you verify +12vdc at the module plug pin's p and m?
If your going to throw parts at it I would replace the crank sensor first. It's much less money and more likely the problem. You will have to get a new bracket too. The old one will not hold the new sensor.
In step 9 on the trouble shooting guide did you verifiy that you were getting a pulse to the injector with a injector test light (noid light)you really need to verifiy this before you check the cam secor for voltage.I've been threw these kind of problems on several of these cars mine and other freinds and you must verifiy each step or you will not get the proper results.(just guessing and putting on part not needed)I had one like this once and it ended up being a broken wire in the injector harness.that's why it's important to go step by step verifiy then move to the next just trying to help.
I decided to take the coil module to Autozone to check out. They tested it and it failed all but one test. I asked them to test the new one they were selling me to make sure their machine was working. Theirs tested perfect. I felt pretty good I found the problem. I came back and I put the old cam sensor and the new module in there again and tried to crank it. It fired and ran like crap. I thought I had got the sensor in 180 off. I couldnt believe I did that and I almost pulled it but for some reason I decided to look at the wiring diagram on the module and tested against the directions. I had written the colors on the coil pack with a sharpie so I didnt think I had gotten it wrong either. Anyway the directions said if version one of the diagram causes the car to misfire try diagram 2 which was not the same as the coil module I pulled. Anyway it was the problem diagram 2 worked and the car starts and runs perfect.
thanks to all those that helped.
Pretty crappy that a cam sensor code was the ignition module. But I am not complaining. It runs again and I learned a great deal.
) its running great.
