Car stumbles during acceleration

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Joined
Jul 22, 2011
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74
I replaced the starter in my GN not that long ago, but it was then working fine, but I hadn't driven it in a couple weeks. Now, when I accelerate, it stumbles around 2000 RPM and nearly dies. If I keep giving it gas (like from a stop), it dies completely. It then restarts.

When it cuts out, the voltage on the scanmaster drops to 0

I'm thinking this might be a coil pack issue? I've had the car for 3 years and haven't installed a new one, I'm not sure how old this one is.
 
I replaced the starter in my GN not that long ago, but it was then working fine, but I hadn't driven it in a couple weeks. Now, when I accelerate, it stumbles around 2000 RPM and nearly dies. If I keep giving it gas (like from a stop), it dies completely. It then restarts.

When it cuts out, the voltage on the scanmaster drops to 0

I'm thinking this might be a coil pack issue? I've had the car for 3 years and haven't installed a new one, I'm not sure how old this one is.
stock maf??
if so, that is where I would start my investigation.
thanks
Jim
 
I believe that the voltage is dropping because the engine is dying....or you can look into getting your alternator checked. Many issues can cause this so I suggest doing one thing at a time starting with the easiest first. If your ignition module is not grounded properly on that brace, it could cause the same issue. A bad coil pack can also cause the same issue. What coil pack/module are you running on the car now?
 
You may want to take a good look at the fusible links since you just replaced the starter.
 
and see if either of the battery cables are touching the header during G loads. The stock MAF can cause all kinds of problems but depriving the car of voltage isn't one of them.
 
Since you replaced your starter I would check all the connections and the battery connections. Sounds like you may have created a problem during the replacement.........check the orange ECM wire connection also.
 
I think the main problem was my battery cable, it was melted pretty badly in one spot. I'm sure it was shorting on the downpipe when the engine torqued, that's why it only died as the RPMs increased.

2013-08-23193058.jpg

I ended up just replacing the coil pack. ignition module, and fusible links anyways, they were all still original and I'd rather figure out how to do them when i have time, than trying to do it for the first time in a parking lot somewhere.

I did find my negative battery cable just lying on the frame though. I specifically remember bolting it back into the block with the turbo bracket last year though. Can these bolts back themselves out?

I had a mechanic replace my water pump a few months ago, I'm not sure if he took them out and didn't put them back in. He was a Ford mechanic (unfortunately, I was on a school trip with the car and had no time or resources to fix it myself; a friend's Dad got the part and set up the mechanic) He said they didn't touch anything ahead of the block (turbo, intercooler, etc) and went in from underneath, but I find it hard to believe that the bolts would back themselves out completely.
 
I had the same problem once.... Changed starter & got a misfire. The cable was touching the header & had melted. I Bought a new cable & everything was great again!!
 
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