Champion Aluminum R Heads & Long Term Street Reliability

[~JM~]

Anyone else have anything to add about the GN1-R heads or the standard GN1?

Thank you
~JM~

 

[turbofabricator]

Based on what you want or don't want to accomplish HP wise, I would stick with ported irons. They don't crack, cost less and will provide enough flow for a 9 second pass. No reason to even consider an aluminum head in my opinion. Adding the additional head bolts for 6 bolts per cylinder will require alot of exotic welding. (huge $$ and lots of machine work) The stock block does NOT have the material needed to do this. StageI or StageII blocks, do. But your goals are far from needing such work. Heck a 100% stock short block with a good set of ported irons and roller cam, good turbo, stock location stretch intercooler, good tuning and you will be able to run 10.60's. That is alot faster than I think you are planning on running?? That requires a good roll bar, good aftermarket brakes, good trans and converter, too. Axles, and Eaton posi are a MUST. So....what are your performance goals, or are you just asking hypothetical questions?

 

[~JM~]

I ran across a pair of these heads & would like to use them. They do look very minimal in material in many locations & just wondered if anyone had racked up a bunch of street miles on a set without any problems.

Thank you
~JM~

 

[turbofabricator]

You will be better off selling them and buying ported irons. Really. Any good porter can do a great set of iron heads.

 

[~JM~]

 

[~JM~]

 

[~JM~]

 

[Jay Wicks]

Standard GN1's here. 9.25 @150. Four years, lots of street miles, more 1/4 mile passes than I can count. A/c , heat, and cruise still in the car, 87 Limited.
I am very happy with these cylinder heads

 

[Grumpy]

Based on what you want or don't want to accomplish HP wise, I would stick with ported irons. They don't crack, cost less and will provide enough flow for a 9 second pass. No reason to even consider an aluminum head in my opinion. Adding the additional head bolts for 6 bolts per cylinder will require alot of exotic welding. (huge $$ and lots of machine work) The stock block does NOT have the material needed to do this. StageI or StageII blocks, do. But your goals are far from needing such work. Heck a 100% stock short block with a good set of ported irons and roller cam, good turbo, stock location stretch intercooler, good tuning and you will be able to run 10.60's. That is alot faster than I think you are planning on running?? That requires a good roll bar, good aftermarket brakes, good trans and converter, too. Axles, and Eaton posi are a MUST. So....what are your performance goals, or are you just asking hypothetical questions?

x2 !! couldn't say it any better !!!

 

[Grumpy]

hmmmmmmmmmmmm - maybe forget the aluminum heads and go with my 8445's. They have had the crap worked out them and are ready to go on. And it'll save me 1500.00 from buyin the gn1's

BIGGER isn't always better !!

 

[Pronto]

BIGGER isn't always better !!

'nother 9 second parts on a car running 12 seconds. They do qualify for cool guy parts though.

 

[Jerryl]

........... They do qualify for cool guy parts though.

They do have the "WOW" factor though. LOL

Seriously though . . . "maybe" if they made the GN1's with a 1.7/1.6 valve set-up it would work great.

 

[Grumpy]

Seriously though . . . "maybe" if they made the GN1's with a 1.7/1.6 valve set-up it would work great.

They do already !!! Steel heads and ya spray them with dull aluminum paint for the "KOOL GUY" look !! Work GREAT an a lot cheaper

 

[~JM~]

I take it that "Kool Guy" parts are not appreciated. Why is that?

Doesn't an aluminum head usually allow you to run one point more compression on the same fuel (92 pump gas) than an iron head would? What about removing weight off the front of the car?

Do standard aluminum GN1 heads need to be secured with 14 bolts/studs or are 8 bolts sufficiant?

Aluminum heads have always been the way to go on any of my previous projects (all naturally aspirated). I've never been able to afford them in the past or they weren't available for my engine at the time. This time I'm trying to use all top shelf equipment.

Thanks
~JM~

 

[turbo nasty]

I think you will be really surprised how stock heads can run with a decent combo.

 

[bison]

I take it that "Kool Guy" parts are not appreciated. Why is that?

Doesn't an aluminum head usually allow you to run one point more compression on the same fuel (92 pump gas) than an iron head would? What about removing weight off the front of the car?

Do standard aluminum GN1 heads need to be secured with 14 bolts/studs or are 8 bolts sufficiant?

Aluminum heads have always been the way to go on any of my previous projects (all naturally aspirated). I've never been able to afford them in the past or they weren't available for my engine at the time. This time I'm trying to use all top shelf equipment.

Thanks
~JM~

If i had a choice and wasnt paying for them id be running them but id be modifying the top of the cylinder for R heads. You should be able to run 20-21psi with 19-20* with 8:1 on 93 octane which will make a lot more power than iron heads on 93 only. 8 bolts are fine up to about 1000hp so far. The last engine i dynoed at low boost with 9.3:1 and these heads (non R) made 413whp with the wastegate disconnected boost hit about 13psi@6200rpm, 530whp@18psi and 620+@22psi. It went 137+@25psi. The stock heads work well but these will work even better if you run a fast ramp high lift cam.

 

[bison]

I think you will be really surprised how stock heads can run with a decent combo.

His opponent will be surprised how much quicker he is if he builds around the aluminum heads with the right stuff.

 

[turbofabricator]

His opponent will be surprised how much quicker he is if he builds around the aluminum heads with the right stuff.

Especially with a TA aluminum 274 stroker.

I would gladly race (even on the dyno) a stock block with ported irons vs. "R" version GN1's. NO way they can breath with that big valve scraping the cylinder wall. (you can only scallop about .20"-.25" down and that weakens an already weak block) Kinda like running a 2.02 on a 283 Chevy. He has a really nice set of heads now that are BEGGING for a 4.0" bore that will THEN make them a worth while set of heads. In my opinion, (what ever that's worth) they are bling and nothing more. (which you can't see when everything is bolted on) He is spending big bucks where it is unwarrented. Better to go with Standard GN1's or TA heads than the "R" version FOR HIS APPLICATION!!! I feel that there really is no reason to go aluminum on a 109 block. There are guys running LOW 9's on ported irons. If you are buying heads and plan on running in the low 10's or 9's.....Go ahead and buy aluminum heads. If you think that adding aluminum heads on a 10.90 car (with GOOD ported irons) and think it'll make it a 9 second car, you are in for a dissappointment. But as stated previously.......Duplicolor "Cast Aluminum" paint will turn a good set of ported irons into a 10.2 car.
I was only trying to help. He asked a question. (even though he already bought them, or so it seems). Maybe someone else will learn from this.

 

[Grumpy]

I take it that "Kool Guy" parts are not appreciated. Why is that?

Doesn't an aluminum head usually allow you to run one point more compression on the same fuel (92 pump gas) than an iron head would? What about removing weight off the front of the car?

Do standard aluminum GN1 heads need to be secured with 14 bolts/studs or are 8 bolts sufficiant?

Aluminum heads have always been the way to go on any of my previous projects (all naturally aspirated). I've never been able to afford them in the past or they weren't available for my engine at the time. This time I'm trying to use all top shelf equipment.

Thanks
~JM~

ok a thought for ya.. The alum heads will be the first thing ya have.. Then get out a hose an get them wet an watch how the combo GROWS =$$$$$$. BIGGER this an that on a street car is NOT goin to be fun. Of course this is only my opinion. How fast are you looking to go ??

 

[bison]

Especially with a TA aluminum 274 stroker.

I would gladly race (even on the dyno) a stock block with ported irons vs. "R" version GN1's. NO way they can breath with that big valve scraping the cylinder wall. (you can only scallop about .20"-.25" down and that weakens an already weak block) Kinda like running a 2.02 on a 283 Chevy. He has a really nice set of heads now that are BEGGING for a 4.0" bore that will THEN make them a worth while set of heads. In my opinion, (what ever that's worth) they are bling and nothing more. (which you can't see when everything is bolted on) He is spending big bucks where it is unwarrented. Better to go with Standard GN1's or TA heads than the "R" version FOR HIS APPLICATION!!! I feel that there really is no reason to go aluminum on a 109 block. There are guys running LOW 9's on ported irons. If you are buying heads and plan on running in the low 10's or 9's.....Go ahead and buy aluminum heads. If you think that adding aluminum heads on a 10.90 car (with GOOD ported irons) and think it'll make it a 9 second car, you are in for a dissappointment. But as stated previously.......Duplicolor "Cast Aluminum" paint will turn a good set of ported irons into a 10.2 car.
I was only trying to help. He asked a question. (even though he already bought them, or so it seems). Maybe someone else will learn from this.

he already has the heads. Its harder to get 274ci on a TA block because the bore size is a limiting factor