changed plugwires and runs horrible....

so cal. i'll try a coil pack from a store to test since i don't know any tr guys.

What state are you in?

Do you know any other turbo regal owners close by you that would let you maybe swap it out to see for sure that is the problem.

I think autozone has them for something like $45.00 and if you know someone who works there may let you return it if it's not the problem. But of course i'm not talking from experience here. :eek:
 
Some other long shots out of the service manual under the heading “Rough, unstable or Incorrect Idle, Stalling” (not a complete list):
- Check ECM grounds for clean and tight;
- Clean injectors;
- Check throttle linkage for sticking or binding;
- Check IAC system (clean, reset and calibrate);
- Check Generator voltage (9-16 v);
- Check Gear selector switch circuit (does scan agree with shifter);
If rough idle only occurs hot:
- Check PCV valve – place finger over valve several times – valve should snap back;
- Check Power Steering pressure switch;
- Check EGR Valve – should be no EGR at idle;
- O2 sensor contamination – look for a white powdery coating;
- CCCI operation (coil or module);
- Fuel in fuel reg hose;
- MAF
 
You need to re-set your IAC.... it is 175 counts.... should be around 30...... the PL screen showed an idle of 325 RPM.... with an IAC of 175.... it can't raise the idle to the programmed 725 RPM.

You need to open the throttle screw (tighten)... and watch the IAC counts.... tighten... watch... for about 20-30 sec.... tighten.... watch..... get the IAC around 30... then re-set the TPS back to .42 volts.

I bet the idle gets loads better.....and so will your battery voltage....

HTH
 
You need to re-set your IAC.... it is 175 counts.... should be around 30...... the PL screen showed an idle of 325 RPM.... with an IAC of 175.... it can't raise the idle to the programmed 725 RPM.

You need to open the throttle screw (tighten)... and watch the IAC counts.... tighten... watch... for about 20-30 sec.... tighten.... watch..... get the IAC around 30... then re-set the TPS back to .42 volts.

I bet the idle gets loads better.....and so will your battery voltage....

HTH

That would be a good idea ONLY when he gets the car running right. I doubt his present reading is not a cause but rather a result. Gotta find out why the car is running so crappy first
 
That would be a good idea ONLY when he gets the car running right. I doubt his present reading is not a cause but rather a result. Gotta find out why the car is running so crappy first

I figured.... fix the obvious... and maybe the un-obvious will show itself. IMHO.... if the IAC is that bad out of whak.... it couldn't hurt trying to re-set it.... and get the idle back up to something the car can actually do.... I bet 325 RPM idle is kinda rough.....

You are likely correct.... the problem is not in the IAC setting... but something else.... still wouldn't hurt to try....
 
Unless you already have, double check the routing of your vacuum lines and all connections!!! Especially the MAP sensor ones. I believe there is a t-fitting by the coil pack that runs to the MAP. If you knock that off it will run like crap.
 
yeah they look good but i will check them once more on the weekend when there's more daylight.

also i've ordered a ac delco coilpack.

thanks guys for all the advice. it's very helpful.


Unless you already have, double check the routing of your vacuum lines and all connections!!! Especially the MAP sensor ones. I believe there is a t-fitting by the coil pack that runs to the MAP. If you knock that off it will run like crap.
 
Blazer may be onto something. Did you fix all of the vac lines the same time as the plug wires. If the car was previously tuned to compensate for a large vacuum leak and now it's fixed with new lines the IAC will be all out of wack.
 
i only changed the plugs then the car ran horrible.

before it was running better but a higher rpm miss (slight) and running lean.

Blazer may be onto something. Did you fix all of the vac lines the same time as the plug wires. If the car was previously tuned to compensate for a large vacuum leak and now it's fixed with new lines the IAC will be all out of wack.
 
wonder if his new chip is seated all the way. check and see. try reseating it. when you unpluged it and pluged it back in, you might have messed up the chip
 
Can we get a little more history about your car and the mods done to it?

How long have you owned the car,how many miles on it, did you change anything right before you noticed the miss?

Did the car run good when you first installed the TT chip,maf translator,power logger?

Do you race the car or run it hard on the street, if so how often?

The more info you can provide will help us to maybe pick up on what could be happening with your car since we can't actually hear or see how it runs.
 
OK, it was worth a shot. Have you tried checking the new plug wires with your Ohm meter to see if you just got a defective wire?

Lets look at what happens when the car goes into closed loop.

Idle drops from higher "warm up" speed to programmed idle speed
Fuel leans out and begins to use O2 sensor for idle fueling
IAC becomes more reactive to engine speed/load (I think)

Do you have a Powerlogger file that shows the what is going on during warm up, and even better with the transition into closed loop? It would be easier to see what is going on from that than a screen shot.
 
Since you just received the new tt chip, do you have the old one you could put back in and check to see if the problem is the new chip?

Did you break a spark plug tightening them down?

BW
 
126k miles on the car. i put on about 2k since i've owned it.

only mods...TT chip, lt1 maf, translator (dip switches set up,up,up, down and base set at 0), tps-tec (set .42 volts), k&n cone filter, caspers heated o2 harness and new o2 sensor. fuel pressure at 43psi w vac line off.

I had a slight miss the whole time i've owned it but thought it was just due to being older. I changed to a heated 02 and it didn't appear to make any differences. then i changed to silicone lines and was the same. a few weeks later the TT chip went in and it ran better overall. just right after changing the wires it just crapped on me. the reason i bought new wires was 2 of the coil terminals had some whitish color and rust too on the wires and it didn't have that snap connection.

I do push the car hard because I was trying to figure out why my tranny wouldn't shift at WOT but it was fine before the wire change.




Can we get a little more history about your car and the mods done to it?

How long have you owned the car,how many miles on it, did you change anything right before you noticed the miss?

Did the car run good when you first installed the TT chip,maf translator,power logger?

Do you race the car or run it hard on the street, if so how often?

The more info you can provide will help us to maybe pick up on what could be happening with your car since we can't actually hear or see how it runs.
 
i hadn't changed plugs just the wires. they were installed 4-5k miles ago. i will take a look at the plugs. i may just change them for the heck of it.

Plug gaps? Did you set them to the proper spec? Did you knock a gap out installing the plugs?
 
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