Changing rod bearings?

[tta1401]

I was wondering if you could pull the crank out from the bottom the car w/o pulling the motor and change out rod brearings?

Not saying that I did it wrong but what happens if you replace a cam and you don't break it in (wipe out a lobe)? What is the recomended procedure on doing this?

The reason why I asks these questions is (making a long story short) I had a cam put in my in my car when I had my timing chain replaced. Well the shop took 2 weeks longer than he said. Well I got kinda of upset and when he said that he was about done, (said to pick it up at noon) I went down to pick up my car and he wasn't even close. Well 8 hours later and putting valve covers on wrong and other stupid stuff, they finally put it back together right (after helping them wrench on it). I was told that you were supposed to run the engine for about 15-20 mins at about 2000 rpm's to set the lifters. Well I don't remember them doing that. Actually they didn't. I was to fired up to even realize it. Took it about a block down the road for a test drive and then turned right back around and heard a reptitve knocking sound. Kept getting louder and louder. I thought it might have been a rocker that came loose. Well pulled back into his shop and he said that it was a rod bearing after taking off the valve covers. I never recorded any knock on the scanmaster. That was really weird. This knocking sound was bad. I left the car there and he said that he would give me a deal on fixing it. When I picked it up, he told me I spun the#3 bearing and he had to pull the crank out and turn it 10/10. He told me that he pulled the crank from the bottom of the car and repalced them. Did I get ripped off? Could the knock come from the cam not being broke in and he didn't want to tell me he messed up? This was well over a year ago and it just now started to bother me. I really thought the guy was nice and knew what he was talking about. Any help would be great to calm my nerves.

Thanks,

 

[BoostKillsStres]

I changed my rod and main bearings under the car, wasn't much fun but I got it done. I didn't look real close but I imagine the crank will come out that way just depends on if there's enough room for the crank throws to clear the crossmember and if the engines jacked up enough I'm sure it will come out. Are you sure they did this work? Do you have machine shop receipts to prove it? The trans would have to be dropped to get the crank out also because there's no other way to get the flywheel bolts out.

I'm not sure what the record is for cams living with out the breakin procedure because no one doesn't break them in. I'd be cutting open oil filters to see what they look like if I were you.

HTH

 

[Red Regal T]

Sean......that's a real horror story. You can believe they're are many other stories here on the board that are just as bad. The guy was a dishonest, incompetent, moron. It happened a while back, so not much you can do now (but burn down his business). Don't let it bother you. Just forget about it. Sometimes we make the mistake of trusting people who don't deserve it. Live and learn.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by tta1401
I was wondering if you could pull the crank out from the bottom the car w/o pulling the motor and change out rod brearings? ........................Thanks,

That would be the opposite of SMART.

To remove the crank "from the bottom" the timing cover must be removed as well as the transmission. Much easier to remove the motor. Guess Red described the guy well!

 

[rob nolan]

For the cam break in i ran the motor to 2000rpm for about 20min.
Plus i put a quart of the GM break in lube i think its called ENS.

 

[49-blues]

EOS=engine oil supplement

 

[rob nolan]

Originally posted by 49-blues
EOS=engine oil supplement

Thanks 49-blues i thought i had it wrong.

 

[V6 Beast]

I don't think you can get the crank out of the car with the engine still in. You can replace the bearings with the crank in, but to turn the crank, I don't think there is enough clearance between the bottom of the block and the crossmember to get the crank out without pulling the motor.

Sully

 

[tta1401]

Just as I suspected. The guy was supposed to be the man to get your 3.8 turbo worked on. That is what he said he did (pulled the crank from the bottom of the car). Well I will find out this coming up winter when I get the motor rehauled. I will have the guy measure the crank and tell me if was actually turned or not. Like I said, it was a while back. Just got my first 3.8 turbo and I was just trying to do right and listen to people that I thought I could trust. I put to much trust in someone I really didn't know. Yea, live and learn. It was a very expensive learning expierence! Still paying for it now, literally. Well I know alot more things about these motors than when I first started. I can do most of the work on them now. I still need help w/ some stuff. Learned alot from this board. Well maybe he did do it but like I said, I will most definately find out this winter.

Will that cam make a noise like that? (knocking noise) I am still wondering if all he did was replace the cam and lifters.

By the way, his business is closed down.

Thanks again for your replys!

 

[tta1401]

TTT

TTT

 

[19TTA89]

In the TTA there is enough room To pull the crank from the car with just lifting the motor....I was able to lift the motor enough without even taking off the coil Pack to remove the oil pan.I wouldn't want to do that job under the car..But There is more than enough room to take it out on he TTA...HTH..Shawn

 

[tta1401]

Shawn,
I never really tore into a moter like that. I didn't think you could by looking at it. If you had to do it again, would you just pull the motor or pull it from the bottom of the car? I really hope he did pull it out from the bottom. Make me furious when I think of how much money I spent and he might not of did it. Oh ya, you said you had the M&H Racemasters. How much clearance do you have?

Thanks,

 

[19TTA89]

Sean...

I only pulled the oil pan off to try to see how much damage was actually done..I did wind up pulling the motor out of the car...But just saying that there is definately enough room to pull the crank with the motor in the car...The M&H's fit great,No rubbing anywhere...When I was looking for tires,And asking the same questions as you...One of the board members here who owns a TTA,(Uffe)Sent me a picture of the M&H's on his car..If I can find that pic..I will send it too you.....Shawn

 

[Red Regal T]

Re: Re: Changing rod bearings?

Originally posted by Nick Micale
That would be the opposite of SMART.

To remove the crank "from the bottom" the timing cover must be removed as well as the transmission. Much easier to remove the motor. Guess Red described the guy well!

THERE'S NO WAY THIS MUTT PULLED THE CRANK FROM UNDER THE CAR. WHETHER YOU CAN DO IT OR NOT, IS NOT THE POINT. IT'S TOTALLY STUPID.

 

[tta1401]

I would agree on that Red Regal. I have been studying on how to do it and yea, it woyld be pretty stupid. I believe he is still in our club. As soon as I know for sure he did (after this coming winter) I will confront him about it. Might not be pretty. Guess they better save a jail cell for me. I don't like it when I get ripped off. I'm sure no one does. I really hate this crap! Sorry, I am just venting a little.

Shawn, if you can find the pic, that would be cool.