CHecking Waste Gate

[LilSpann601]

is there anyway to check the waste gate and the actuator?

 

[charlief1]

As far as the gate it should move freely and not bind. As far as the actuator you need a compressed air source regulated for very low presure. for a quick check see if it holds vac.

 

[b4black]

The vacuum side (plumbed to the plenum) will most likely leak and should be capped off - it doesn't do anything. The pressure side is connected to the compressor foot - if it won't hold vacuum, it won't hold pressure.

A leaking actuator will lead overboost. If you're not seeing enough boost and want to rule out the wastegate actuator, you can clamp it closed with a turnbuckle or heavy wire - but watch the boost gauge and don't get carried away.

 

[LilSpann601]

The vacuum side (plumbed to the plenum) will most likely leak and should be capped off - it doesn't do anything. The pressure side is connected to the compressor foot - if it won't hold vacuum, it won't hold pressure.

A leaking actuator will lead overboost. If you're not seeing enough boost and want to rule out the wastegate actuator, you can clamp it closed with a turnbuckle or heavy wire - but watch the boost gauge and don't get carried away.

right now the actuator is sucked in and the position of the waste gate is to the right should i clamp it to the left or keep it how it is....when the car is running its hard to take the rod off the waste gate i dont even see how a vaccum or pressure could make it move(waste gate actuator) its stiff but it will move with a little force..waste gate is suppose to be an 80

 

[b4black]

It pushes out with boost pressure. It should be in the closed position must of the time (even with the engine off). You'll have to pull it out to slide it off the wastegate. It doesn't start opening until about 6 psi.

Clamp it as it is with the engine off (wastegate towards the drivers side).

 

[LilSpann601]

well i went ahead and cab the wastegate actuator vaccum side going to the back of the plenum i guess the pressure side...i left the other vac on the wg actuator which is going down to the elbow is this correct ???

 

[charlief1]

HUH? Speeling Lorenzo.LOL

 

[LilSpann601]

well i went ahead and cab the wastegate actuator vaccum side going to the back of the plenum i guess the pressure side...i left the other vac on the wg actuator which is going down to the elbow is this correct ???

lol i meant capped i was in a rush

 

[charlief1]

It makes better sense now. Yes the line furthest away from the wastegate goes to the "foot" of the turbo. It's the presure side so you should be good. What did you decide on the rear? I forgot to tell you to get a higher stall convertor, around 1800-2k should do great. A little looser convertor will help spool the turbo and give you the tire burner you want. And you may not want to change the gears then.

 

[LilSpann601]

It makes better sense now. Yes the line furthest away from the wastegate goes to the "foot" of the turbo. It's the presure side so you should be good. What did you decide on the rear? I forgot to tell you to get a higher stall convertor, around 1800-2k should do great. A little looser convertor will help spool the turbo and give you the tire burner you want. And you may not want to change the gears then.

ok...as for the rear i havnt decided on it yet....

 

[charlief1]

Go to the tranny section and do some searches. If that doesn't help PM Chris718 or Brian Hofer and see what they suggest as far as stall speed. The 83 T Type had a higher stall speed but also had the 2004r. If you increase the stall speed you should be able to offset for the high gears in the rear so you might not want to change them.

 

[LilSpann601]

Go to the tranny section and do some searches. If that doesn't help PM Chris718 or Brian Hofer and see what they suggest as far as stall speed. The 83 T Type had a higher stall speed but also had the 2004r. If you increase the stall speed you should be able to offset for the high gears in the rear so you might not want to change them.

where can i get the right tq convertor...i searched ebay i actually dont know what to look for i know what a torque convertor is but where can i get one that will fit with my trans i dont know whether my trans is a 350 or 250 or 200 metric...i assumed it was a 200 metric but when i bought the detent cable the one for the 350 worked...oh yea the first trans i had was a 350 but i got a trans for 100 out of a 85 cutlass na v6 thats the one im using now

 

[charlief1]

where can i get the right tq convertor...i searched ebay i actually dont know what to look for i know what a torque convertor is but where can i get one that will fit with my trans i dont know whether my trans is a 350 or 250 or 200 metric...i assumed it was a 200 metric but when i bought the detent cable the one for the 350 worked...oh yea the first trans i had was a 350 but i got a trans for 100 out of a 85 cutlass na v6 thats the one im using now

Well first you need to identify which tranny you have for sure. If it's a 250 go get a 350 and put it in. If it's a 200 (has metric on the bottom of the pan) you can build it almost like the 2004r so stregnth isn't an issue. And the 200 weighs less than the 350 so you get a little off the weight of the car. Here's the link to evilbay for you.

eBay - Car Truck Parts, Parts Accessories, Exterior, Lighting Lamps on eBay Motors

Just torque convertors so all you have to do is search for the 200, 250, or 350 convertor and see what's out there.

"If that doesn't help PM Chris718 or Brian Hofer and see what they suggest as far as stall speed."

These guys do trannys for a living and are board members so they should be able to help. They might even take pitty on you for running a carb/turbo set up. LOL