Chevy 2500HD 6.0 liter

[Epitome]

Getting closer to buy time so I am throwing this out there again. I am going to buy a full size 90 something 4x4 with extended cab truck that will tow my GN a few times year and light duty other than that. I would not mind a diesel, like a dodge with a cummins (not sure if any other diesel is as trouble free) but I'm leaning toward a chevy. The biggest 2 questions are: What is best? and more importantly, Is there anything to definitely AVOID? Thanks

 

[TurboJunky]

I do mild/moderate towing and evaluated all models and engine combos.

I went with the Duramax / Allison and never looked back. Sure, it was a hefty price but I'll never have to worry about trailering capacities. I think the only thing I own that it can't pull is my house. I got tired of marginal towing capacities with my previous tow vehicles. Highway mileage is 22mpg and around town is 16-17mpg. Not bad for a 6,000 lb. truck.

Being a diesel it should last many more miles than a gas engine. So considering the much better mileage and extended life expectancy I thought it'd be a better deal in the long run.

 

[NoNos38]

Originally posted by Epitome
Getting closer to buy time so I am throwing this out there again. I am going to buy a full size 90 something 4x4 with extended cab truck that will tow my GN a few times year and light duty other than that. I would not mind a diesel, like a dodge with a cummins (not sure if any other diesel is as trouble free) but I'm leaning toward a chevy. The biggest 2 questions are: What is best? and more importantly, Is there anything to definitely AVOID? Thanks

I drive a 1997 chevy 1/2 ton 350 vortech.... If you saw the things I pull on a daily basis with this truck you would probley die laffing..... I have skidloaders, trenchers, kobotas, if it fits on my (12,000)pound trailer I have pulled it.. The funny thing is, Most of the guys that work for me drive 1 ton dulley fords, chevys or dodges... And I drive a 1/2 ton chevy.. But to make along story short, It does the job.... Yes, The RPM's might be singing going up some of the hills we have around here, but I always make it to the job sight..... BTW, My truck has around 195,000 miles on the origional motor and tranny..... Not to bad, for the abuse it takes... Its not that I cant afford a Chevy duramax, I just think I keep this truck around, so we have something to talk about at the bar..........

And yes, It pulls my buick just fine.... It does eat up (brakepads) though .


Matt

 

[Eds87GN]

I've got an '02 2500 HD ext. cab 4x4 with the 8.1L(496ci) big block and the Allison 5 speed automatic and 3.73 rear.

It gets about 10mpg pulling my car and gets 13 around town and it got 15.5mpg on the highway(75mph) the day I bought it.


Got about 15,000 miles on it and no problems so far.

Later,
Ed

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by BobbyBuick
yep thats what Im goin to do .
Need to reprogam the computer though.
Bruce Ill go tug of war my 6.0 againt yer 7.4 that 6.0 is a pulin little piston slappin momma

Where, and when?.
Then we load up to like !0,000K#, and go forra drive at 75 in a 40 MPH head wind, and then do a few hard stops.

She's not the pretty gal, in the lot, but she's got all Raybestos HD brakes, and religious PM on her, so I can leave tomorrow for anywhere in the US without a care.

PS, good luck with tinkering with that PCM. BTW, I have alot of time in tuning mine. I give away a couple HP at WOT for the comfort of knowing I can run at WOT for LONG periods of time.

Does it sound like I like my truck?, LOL

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by UNGN
It's stronger than the TBI 454 and gets better mpg towing, too.

In stock form.
The stock cal for the 454s weren't too good. Change the exhuast so they can breathe a lil, and redo the fuel, and it's a whole new game. Staying with an oldie, allows you to actually get into the ecm and do the good things, unlike the OBDII stuff.

And when it comes to stopping?.
HP is only a part of the whole picture, with a full load, I can sqeeze on the binders and stop.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by Epitome
Getting closer to buy time so I am throwing this out there again. I am going to buy a full size 90 something 4x4 with extended cab truck that will tow my GN a few times year and light duty other than that. I would not mind a diesel, like a dodge with a cummins (not sure if any other diesel is as trouble free) but I'm leaning toward a chevy. The biggest 2 questions are: What is best? and more importantly, Is there anything to definitely AVOID? Thanks

Unless you really need the 4WD, don't bother. If the weather is that danged bad, take the day off, it's really not worth the risks.

The pre 96 stuff is tunable, and the truck cals that I've seen all leave room for some work.

Whatever you do, be sure to get the highest GVW rating chassis and brake package you can. Size does matter on a big hill with a heavy load.

When I was shopping for mine, I couldn't believe how many 4.3L 5 Spd, 3/4t trucks there were around here. The option packages for fleet trucks are somewhat strange.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by bruce
And when it comes to stopping?.
HP is only a part of the whole picture, with a full load, I can sqeeze on the binders and stop.

The new trucks have 4 wheel disks and 4 wheel ABS. Not only will they stop better than the old ones, but they'll stop better in the rain coming down a mountain.

 

[Epitome]

I kind of like the idea of a cummins turbo diesel, but I have some problems accepting a dodge truck. I guess I am a chevy guy when it comes to trucks. What are some dodge (cummins) and chevy truck years to look for in the 90s?

 

[UNGN]

95-97 Dodges club cabs are pretty good. They actually have more room and are "tighter" than the Quads, but the '98 up trucks interiors are a little nicer and offer dual airbags and the convenience of 4 doors.

You couldn't get the short wheelbase with the Diesel before '98 so nearly all club cabs have an 8 foot bed and a 155" wheel base. great for towing, not so great for parking.

There are LOTS of performance enhancing mods available for the non 32 valve cummins ('97 and older) that can be had pretty reasonably. The 32 Valve engine ('98.5 and up) is a great engine stock, but it appears it costs more to modify.

If I had to buy one for a daily driver or to tow 6K lbs to the track on weekends, I'd get a '98 Quad cab SWB 32 V auto. If I was buying one to tow a 10K+ lb trailer long distances I'd get a '97 LWB and mod it.

If you go Diesel, get one with the 3.55 gears. 4.10's are way to steep unless you live in the rockies. With 3.55's cruising at 80 mph pulling 8K lbs is a breeze and you can knock down 14-15 mpg doing it.

 

[V6Power87]

Originally posted by UNGN
95-97 Dodges club cabs are pretty good. They actually have more room and are "tighter" than the Quads, but the '98 up trucks interiors are a little nicer and offer dual airbags and the convenience of 4 doors.

You couldn't get the short wheelbase with the Diesel before '98 so nearly all club cabs have an 8 foot bed and a 155" wheel base. great for towing, not so great for parking.

There are LOTS of performance enhancing mods available for the non 32 valve cummins ('97 and older) that can be had pretty reasonably. The 32 Valve engine ('98.5 and up) is a great engine stock, but it appears it costs more to modify.

If I had to buy one for a daily driver or to tow 6K lbs to the track on weekends, I'd get a '98 Quad cab SWB 32 V auto. If I was buying one to tow a 10K+ lb trailer long distances I'd get a '97 LWB and mod it.

If you go Diesel, get one with the 3.55 gears. 4.10's are way to steep unless you live in the rockies. With 3.55's cruising at 80 mph pulling 8K lbs is a breeze and you can knock down 14-15 mpg doing it.

32 valve

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by V6Power87
32 valve

I've got 32 V on my brain. 24 Valve

 

[KevinBroadwater]

Just brought the new HD home about an hour ago.Thanks for all the input.

 

[NoNos38]

tell us more about it...

 

[TurboJunky]

Yea, talk to us. Do me proud and tell me you went Diesel!

 

[KevinBroadwater]

It's a 2500HD ex cab sb 6.0.I couldn't justify the diesel i'm sorry.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by UNGN
The new trucks have 4 wheel disks and 4 wheel ABS. Not only will they stop better than the old ones, but they'll stop better in the rain coming down a mountain.

And not to mention that on a slick surface they quit all together. No thanks, I stay with my primitive setup thank you. ABS too often gives people a false sense of security. While in theory it also gives people the ability to steer out of an accident, without proper training, people generaly freeze, and drive straight into things they should have been able to avoid if only they hadn't paniced. Like DOHC, and so many gee whiz items, the real world just tends to negate so many of these alleged advantages.

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by Epitome
Getting closer to buy time so I am throwing this out there again. I am going to buy a full size 90 something 4x4 with extended cab truck that will tow my GN a few times year and light duty other than that. I would not mind a diesel, like a dodge with a cummins (not sure if any other diesel is as trouble free) but I'm leaning toward a chevy. The biggest 2 questions are: What is best? and more importantly, Is there anything to definitely AVOID? Thanks

I would suggest looking and finding a 1993 2500 pickup. I say the 1993 because it's the first year of the 6.5-turbo diesels and was without the electronic injector pump. Lots of power and no failures. Once they introduced electric IP it went from good to bad in one year. They now seem to have solved the problem and you can usually get 100K from the electric IP. My 1999 Suburban has an electric IP and I'm planning to bring it in, in a week to have the IP changed out. Still under warrantee so shouldn't cost me a penny (hopefully).

If all you're going to use it for is towing and not a lot of driving then a gasser is fine. If you're like me and drive a lot then diesel is the only way to go. At 30K/year I need something that gets decent mileage.

Art.

 

[S2V6RACER]

Watching this Duramax injector replacement issue. Seems so far the 01's are having problems here and there with failures. I'm sure the mileage of the 01's play the biggest role. Could be fuel contamination and the injectors are too tempermental to it. Time will tell. Possible recall in them is in the future also I see on some web sites.

If there truley is a problem and they don't fix it, I can assure you that I will sell my truck and NEVER buy a GM truck again. The best thing they can do is replace the problem, reguardless of cost. We spent good $$ on these engines, this was a opportunity for GM to get back into the Diesel game, this engine must pass the test, especially since most in the Diesel game are only in it for power/reliablility. GM is rumored to be blaming the injectors on Bosch and is applicable to 01-04 Duramax Diesel engines. Wonder how VW's TDI Diesel is doing, that also has the Bosch Common Rail injection as well as Ford 6.0, Dodge HO Cummins. This may happen with other engines as well.

For those who don't know, 8 injectors replaced will cost approx $4500 US once it is out of warrantee.

100k warantee standard on the engine.

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by bruce
And not to mention that on a slick surface they quit all together. No thanks, I stay with my primitive setup thank you. ABS too often gives people a false sense of security.

They don't "quit all together Even if they are on polished glass you are still getting more braking force to the ground than non ABS. Static Coef of friction is always more than sliding Coef of friction.

Non ABS is only better than ABS on gravel roads or deep show when the locked up tires build a mountain of debris in front of the tire that helps stop the vehicle. Towing fast in either of these conditions is dumb.

ABS automatically adjust proportioning for load, too. So you get maximum stopping fully loaded AND empty. Without ABS and a trailer over 8K, you'd have to adjust the setting of the load leveler bars to haul an empty trailer or the back tires would lock on every stop.