code 34

chadly

Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2007
I started my car today and after letting it warm up a minute I notice the service engine light lit. Car seems to run just fine. I let it run a couple more minutes to see if anything is going to happen and all seems normal other than the light. I check the code and find 34. I put the car in reverse and it starts spitting and sputtering real bad. Back in neutral if I give it a little gas it goes back to normal idle. while idling I wiggled the MAF wires as well as the ECM wires. No change in the idle. I shut the car off and disconnected the battery and the MAF connector. No corrosion it looks great. Started it back up and the service light comes on again. Car seems to idle fine. Put it in reverse and back out the garage fine. Started down the driveway and its back to spitting and sputtering. My TPS was .46 and 4.6. A bit off but I cant image that would be the problem. Fuel pressure was 40 vac line off. RPM at idle was ranging 650-725. What am to do now?
Thanks
Chad
 
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Thanks. I tried tapping on it but it does not stumble at all. Runs good in neutral. It's when I put it in gear it acts up. If I run the brake and the gas and keep the rpm's above 1400 it seems to run good. Just because I took the MAF off and cleaned it but it really was not dirty.
 
did it throw the code after you cleaned it? that wire in there is very easily damaged . They make a maf spray cleaner, using brake cleaner or other harsh cleaner will damage it.
 
Thanks. This is a car that never really gets used. Sometimes sits for years. However I did drive it a couple weeks ago. went to start it after no work just been sitting and it happened. When I cleaned the MAF I used the proper MAF spray.
 
Start the car and then disconnect the MAF. If it idles better then it's the MAF. Has anybody tried that gm MAF from Rockauto? I wonder if it works?
 
I just tried looking at that MAF again at rockauto. 1 minute later. Now it's out of stock.
 
I wouldn’t mess with the stock MAF sensors. They are hit or miss and mostly miss. I tried to keep mine all stock at first and couldn’t find a stock one that worked. Translator and a LT1 or LS1 maf should be most reliable. The LT1 is cheap and the same size as stock.


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I wouldn’t mess with the stock MAF sensors. They are hit or miss and mostly miss. I tried to keep mine all stock at first and couldn’t find a stock one that worked. Translator and a LT1 or LS1 maf should be most reliable. The LT1 is cheap and the same size as stock.


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The LTI is the same size diameter wise only. It is shorter than original and the case is about 1/8 wider. It does not fit in the stock location. I had to add couplers and change air tube.
 
Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it. I will go with the translator and LT once I confirm the MAF is bad. As I mentioned it does idle normal its when I put it in gear it runs really rough. This morning I put it in gear and it acted up. I put it in neutral and as it continued to run rough I unplugged the MAF and it still ran awful. Smells rich and it sounded like a marble was bouncing around either the MAF pipe or the inner cooler.
 
yikes, find that rattle before it takes out your turbo or worse. easy enough to pull off your maf and check that the screens are intact and nothing is loose.
 
A friend about an hour away said he had two MAF that were working when they were pulled. I grabbed both to give a try. The first one which was pretty and clean ran same as mine. The second that was ugly ran fine. So definitely a bad MAF. Thanks for all the help.
 
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