complete rebuild now no start!

[RICHIE HIGH PSI]

How far off 60 do you live?

 

[SNKSKNR]

You have a PM

 

[PowerKraus]

I'm startin to think i have a broke wire, guess i need to check all the stinkin wiring to the ccci.

Pull a plug or two, ground it and crank. You should see a good spark jump. If so, you know you have spark, then check the other things mentioned to make sure the spark is firing at the right time.

good luck. a no start after a build is a booger. I had the same and it turned out to be a dirty pin at the module. I say dirty cause I can't spell corodid?

 

[turbobose13]

rich I live in coral springs, if you want you can Im me.

 

[onefastcar]

I live in Seffner off of parsons and wheeler, i asked a guy down the road but he's loaded up with company he has 2 gns, any help right now would be appreciated my phone #is 813-681-5194 and my name is Lewis, this thing is just puzzling me i guess when ya move 20 year old wires around they don't like it.

 

[milesengineer]

I went through the same thing with my T not too long ago. My car would sometimes start and then sometimes it wouldnt. Sometimes I had spark, sometimes I had injector pulse, other times I had nothing. Changed every sensor on the car, at least twice. Everytime I changed the crank sensor the car would start, run around the block then it would die and nothing.
Finally I started looking around at the wiring and saw lots of crappy wiring from the factory. I pulled the whole harness apart and started ohming out wires back to the computer. I finally found the cam sensor had a broken wire.

I guess what I am saying is you need to check the all the wires. Use the wiring schematic on vortex buick and start checking wires.

Also, I dont know if it is just my car or not, but I had the cam sensor totally out of whack and was getting no spark at all. Set it properly and the car fired up perfectly. Double check everything you have done so far. Then follow the no start tree on vortex.

HTH

Lee

 

[turbo39151]

I suppose you could buy a new harness from Capsers, postons? About $600 and then you can rule out any short...

Check all the wires to the ignition module. It seems that it's all wrapped with tape from the factory and for some reason or another, you may find that one or more of the wires has rubbed bare causing problems with starting -also double check the ccci fuse... (this one blows every time- until you find the short).

 

[onefastcar]

Quick question i keep hooking up my coil or ignition module tester from caspers and it doesn't do anything this is with 2 different coil packs (1 is from caspers) and 3 different ignition modules and it still does nothing why? i guess i'm calling caspers in the morning i just find it hard to believe that with all these they are all bad but someone told me it wouldn't work on these aftermarket ign modules does someone have one that knows for sure (the ign module i have now is from NAPA).

 

[milesengineer]

not for sure if richie lives over there still but i am sure he has one and red regal t has them. have you gone through the no start procedure to narrow down what the issue is? if you havent, or dont you will be throwing parts at it. you need to make sure you are getting cam and crank signals into the module. that will tell you what the problem is.

 

[SNKSKNR]

Quick question i keep hooking up my coil or ignition module tester from caspers and it doesn't do anything this is with 2 different coil packs (1 is from caspers) and 3 different ignition modules and it still does nothing why? i guess i'm calling caspers in the morning i just find it hard to believe that with all these they are all bad but someone told me it wouldn't work on these aftermarket ign modules does someone have one that knows for sure (the ign module i have now is from NAPA).

The tester ONLY will work on a GM ignition moduel.

 

[onefastcar]

Well it least that narrows that down thanks snksknr, i put a test light on the injector it lights up when i crank it gets dim and bright not sure if this would be a pulse or not this thing is gettin me down, just ohmed crank and cam sensor wires to the ccci and they are all good.:frown:

 

[milesengineer]

No start - no spark, has injector pulse - Check the ignition module
No start - has spark, no injector pulse - Cam Sensor or ECM
No start - no spark or injector pulse - Crank sensor or module

You really need to get a noid light on the injector plug. The dimming that you see could be the battery being pulled down trying to start the car and not the injectors firing. You have narrowed the problem down to one of three thing, module, crank sensor or wiring. I highly doubt it is the wiring but you never know.

HTH

Lee

 

[turbobose13]

I would check the crank sensor& a the fuse's, because if you have spark and fuel it should start.

 

[RUQWKNF27]

Yes check all fuses. I has a no start one time an it was the CSIII fuse or something like that had blown an was keeping it from starting. Pull each individual fuse out an look @ it.

 

[Jerryl]

Well it least that narrows that down thanks snksknr, i put a test light on the injector it lights up when i crank it gets dim and bright not sure if this would be a pulse or not this thing is gettin me down, just ohmed crank and cam sensor wires to the ccci and they are all good.:frown:

OK, I am confused (easily done )
What is missing: Spark or fuel?
Can you hear the fuel pump prime?

 

[onefastcar]

I has no spark, have ohmed all fuses actually and they are all good and have also ohmed cam and crank sensor wires and they are all good also, i need a noid light for sure cause checkin with this test light ain't workin and milesengineer said he would swap parts till we figure it out i am feeling a little better.
also changed
crank sensor adjusted twice also can't believe i ain't ripped it off yet
cam sensor cap is new caspers with led but have put the old one on also to no avail and light blinks with casper cap
ign module 3 times -autozone refund money and now i have a napa one on and am checkin it today
coil pack caspers and have put my old one on also which both ohm out fine
have not messed with cam sensor position till i get noid light and make sure its getting a signal
fuel pressure is good pump starts and i have 44psi
when turning over i have 2 plugs out and i can smell gas in the cylinders
changed ecm that i got from gbodyparts and back to my original
JUST NO DAMN SPARK!
ARRRRRRRRRGH!
MY wife said if ya beat you're head against a wall would ya feel better cause i was cusing so bad, i said i would beat my head against a wall till it bled if the thing would run, she feels pretty bad for me, i don't i'm just not happy.

 

[Jerryl]

Getting power to the module?
Engine Cranks But Won't Run - '86/'87 3.8L Turbo

Edit:
The wires from module to coil connected right and the grounds to the bottom of the coil ok?

Edit #2 :tongue:
See pic in this post for Module to Coil wiring
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...ed-wrong.html?highlight=coil+to+module+wiring

 

[onefastcar]

Yes power is to the m and p pin on ccci and i have it wired as such.

 

[onefastcar]

Sorry as in this web site

Vortex Turbo Buick Performance

 

[onefastcar]

Well i think i've figured it out but will report back tommorrow my ecm connection to the d and c side 1/5th of the way through the connector had some pretty good corrosion HA cleaned them and now i get an injector pulse, soaked em pretty good and used a toothbrush to get a little deeper, leetin em dry up till tommorrow its looking more promising, i'll report back but heres hoping.