Completely dumbfounded. brakes WILL NOT work.

[Stroker-ace]

ok, so I now have a very serious problem. (car has vacum brakes)

I have replaced the Master cylinder, brake booster, both calipers and rubber lines, rear wheel cylinders AND upgraded to the brass proportioning valve.

me and a buddy just spent 2 1/2 hours attempting to bleed the brakes with no prevail.

I bench bled the master cylinder, made sure I didn't let the master run dry throughout the process, heck I even clamped the little valve on the NEW proportioning valve (not sure if you have to on the brass one but i bled the brakes twice around without it clamped and twice around with it clamped.).

after clear fluid on every wheel, the pedal still goes to the floor. then we go back to the first (passenger rear) and start again, only to find MORE AIR. How can air be getting into my system like that? I know that it dosent take THAT LONG to bleed all the air out of the system. WTF AM I DOING WRONG>!>!>!>!>

 

[Fast4Ward]

wow. check clamps and fittings...run your hands over everything and anything you mentioned and i mean touch her everywhere....make sure a bleeder is not stripped...good luck.

 

[1quick6]

Is it a new or reman master? How did you bench bleed the master cylinder? It almost sounds like bad seals internally letting the fluid slip by the rear/front reservoir. Air can re-renter the system through the threads on the bleeders or any of the brake line fittings.

 

[Stroker-ace]

Is it a new or reman master? How did you bench bleed the master cylinder? It almost sounds like bad seals internally letting the fluid slip by the rear/front reservoir. Air can re-renter the system through the threads on the bleeders or any of the brake line fittings.

the master is a reman unit, I have replaced it twice for good measure. if air was leaking back in through the brake lines, I would be able to see fluid getting pushed out where the air is leaking from, correct? I have no leaks ANYWHERE. and the bleeders are brand new, as the parts they are on are brand new.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Get a brand new master.

 

[gunslinger]

Get a brand new master.

+1

I never sell reman masters anymore because of leaks, crappy pedals, failure after a short time etc. Only new for me and my customers.

 

[1quick6]

the master is a reman unit, I have replaced it twice for good measure. if air was leaking back in through the brake lines, I would be able to see fluid getting pushed out where the air is leaking from, correct? I have no leaks ANYWHERE. and the bleeders are brand new, as the parts they are on are brand new.

It's always a crap shoot with reman masters and it is usually not in your favor. It sounds to me like all of your ducks are in a row, so if it were me, I'd probably shoot for a new master cylinder as the others have said. With all of the time and effort of swapping in remans, bleeding them, etc, it is probably well worth the ~$90 for a new one. Some reman parts are fine, but masters, for whatever reason, make you feel really unlucky. I know some people have gone through three or four in budget hydroboost conversions. Probably not what you want to hear, but there can't be much of anything else it could be.

 

[Stroker-ace]

well, I'll give it a shot with a brand new master. we'll see what happens there.

 

[1quick6]

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out. I just went through your LSX thread ... NICE!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Where are you fellas getting new MC's from?

 

[davidf]

I bought a "new" Wagner from my local parts store for $65.00. Was'nt in stock but got it in 3 days. Since I'm converting to vacumn, the MC and booster was for an 87 V8 Regal.

 

[1quick6]

Around my area, Carquest had new hydroboost masters for the 83/84 TR. I can't verify, but that's what the parts guy told me on the phone.

 

[gunslinger]

Got mine from NAPA.