Component Speakers w/ concert surround 2

[turbobully]

Ok looking for some help w/ wiring of component speakers w/ concert surround 2. I took out my 3.5's made a bracket to fit in the dash and foudn the right size 5.25 to fit in the doors. I just am not sure how to wire the cross overs that come w/ it. They have one set of wires for the input from the head unit and then two sets coming off for the 5.25 and tweeters. Anyone konw what to do here?

 

[garyk1970]

Ok looking for some help w/ wiring of component speakers w/ concert surround 2. I took out my 3.5's made a bracket to fit in the dash and foudn the right size 5.25 to fit in the doors. I just am not sure how to wire the cross overs that come w/ it. They have one set of wires for the input from the head unit and then two sets coming off for the 5.25 and tweeters. Anyone konw what to do here?

if youre running off radio power,put the x-over behind the stereo and wire input to stereo,woofer output to oem wire.cap off the oem dash wires and run a wire to the tweet from the x-over...

 

[turbobully]

Thanks for the info. Couldnt you use the current dash speaker wires or are those split from the same door speaker wire?

 

[GlockandRoll]

If you have not already installed them, I'd recommend putting the tweeters on angled surface mounts and placing them on the kick-panels, and ding them to match the grey color.

Dont them both towards the shifter handle, and you will greatly benefit in sound quality over the factory dash locations via more equalized path lenghts in addition to be on-axis with the tweeters center line.

 

[garyk1970]

Thanks for the info. Couldnt you use the current dash speaker wires or are those split from the same door speaker wire?

yes ,they are wired together (parrellel)....

If you have not already installed them, I'd recommend putting the tweeters on angled surface mounts and placing them on the kick-panels, and ding them to match the grey color.

Dont them both towards the shifter handle, and you will greatly benefit in sound quality over the factory dash locations via more equalized path lenghts in addition to be on-axis with the tweeters center line.

ive found the factory locations for the tweets to be very good...it brings the sound stage nice and high,and the angle of the windsheild directs/images the sound...

 

[GlockandRoll]

ive found the factory locations for the tweets to be very good...it brings the sound stage nice and high,and the angle of the windsheild directs/images the sound...

Actually, I cant think of a single reason why you would want to put them there becuase of a few things.

1. The passive x-over network is descend for the tweeter to be within a foot or less of the mid range; moving them so far away will knock them out of phase.

2. The sound dispersion of the tweeter is designed to be on-axis, pointed towards the listeners ears, not off axis and reflected off the glass (one of the worst things you can do to a speaker for sound quality)

3. distance of the tweeter to your ears (time allignment) will be way off, meaning the drivers side dash speaker location is an armslenth, but the passenger side is twice that distance away. This is what really kills the stereo imaging.

4. damage from the sun.

It's been proven time and time again that the kick panels are the absolute BEST place to put speakers in a car, and this GN is a perfect example of it.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2575045

You do not, BTW, have to have something so elaborate, these replace the stock panels and sound fantastic!
Q Forms Kick Panels for Car Stereo | Q Logic Enclosures

This illustration really makes the point about why you want path length equalization.

 

[garyk1970]

Actually, I cant think of a single reason why you would want to put them there becuase of a few things.

1. The passive x-over network is descend for the tweeter to be within a foot or less of the mid range; moving them so far away will knock them out of phase.

2. The sound dispersion of the tweeter is designed to be on-axis, pointed towards the listeners ears, not off axis and reflected off the glass (one of the worst things you can do to a speaker for sound quality)

3. distance of the tweeter to your ears (time allignment) will be way off, meaning the drivers side dash speaker location is an armslenth, but the passenger side is twice that distance away. This is what really kills the stereo imaging.

4. damage from the sun.

It's been proven time and time again that the kick panels are the absolute BEST place to put speakers in a car, and this GN is a perfect example of it.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2575045

You do not, BTW, have to have something so elaborate, these replace the stock panels and sound fantastic!
Q Forms Kick Panels for Car Stereo | Q Logic Enclosures

This illustration really makes the point about why you want path length equalization.

first off excellent post.......but youve missed one problem with your post...hes using radio power,not an amp....so i recommend the tweets closer and they are still within the magic 16-18'' of the mids...so i dont under stand the seperation from the mid range your talking about....
yes custom sealed fiberglass kicks with componets is best,and is what i have built for my car (23 year car audio veteran)....
youre completey right,but you will find some/most gn owners want to do the install themselfs,and use the factory locations for simplicity.....have you ever heard a compnet set installed in the oem spots in a TR before???
btw most of us are not competing in IASCA SQ lol .....slow down ,and welcome aboard......

 

[GlockandRoll]

first off excellent post.......but youve missed one problem with your post...hes using radio power,not an amp....so i recommend the tweets closer and they are still within the magic 16-18'' of the mids...so i dont under stand the seperation from the mid range your talking about....
yes custom sealed fiberglass kicks with componets is best,and is what i have built for my car (23 year car audio veteran)....
youre completey right,but you will find some/most gn owners want to do the install themselfs,and use the factory locations for simplicity.....have you ever heard a compnet set installed in the oem spots in a TR before???
btw most of us are not competing in IASCA SQ lol .....slow down ,and welcome aboard......

This is strictly about speaker placement... and if you have them placed properly, less power is required as you will be on axis with them. Doesnt matter what the sources is. I could take the factory speaker location, and hang some parts express tweeters on plumbers tape udner the dash near the kicks and point them up to illistrate the point.

In regarsd to the seperation of minds/highs, there isnt a magic 16-18" unless it's taken into consideration when making the cross-over. In fact if I were going to put them that far from the mids I'd knock the mids out of phase just to bring them back in phase with the tweeters.
This is specific to the cross over design, and I have built passive crossover networks specific to the vehicle. My favorite was a 93 Tarus SHO with a set of scan-speak tweeters and vifa 7" woofers in the doors, and brand I cant remember mid in the kickpanel.

I had a kikcker solosbaric 10" in the factory locatiopn with a 3x Xtant amp. The car placed in every show it entered, and I brought home two best of show trophies in 96 w/it.

I miss those times.

 

[garyk1970]

the good ole days for me was 2001 when i competed on a national level in iasca idbl ,adv1441-up class and made it to the world finals and finished third......im very proud of that....i had about 1/10th the budget of my competitors.....
i prefer spl because the number that the system puts up is tangable....(i should be deaf,LOL)
sq is a judges' opinion....and you know what they say,opinions are like.............i like my sq too.....but nothing too elaberate (to me) can make me happy.....nice set of componets in kicks (sealed for good mids/midbass) imaged/directed/aimed right,i use the passive x-overs that come with them.....nice amp,etc..
do i break out a tape measure,buid my own x-overs?no...
i ask about my customers goals/music preferences,and design a system thats sounds good to THEM..........
post up a thread about good imaging,design,x-over building,etc(in a TR of course) with detailed pics and ill make it a sticky for you.....

 

[turbopete]

I like it

Now I understand better. Thanks.

 

[GlockandRoll]

the good ole days for me was 2001 when i competed on a national level in iasca idbl ,adv1441-up class and made it to the world finals and finished third......im very proud of that....i had about 1/10th the budget of my competitors.....
i prefer spl because the number that the system puts up is tangable....(i should be deaf,LOL)
sq is a judges' opinion....and you know what they say,opinions are like.............i like my sq too.....but nothing too elaberate (to me) can make me happy.....nice set of componets in kicks (sealed for good mids/midbass) imaged/directed/aimed right,i use the passive x-overs that come with them.....nice amp,etc..
do i break out a tape measure,buid my own x-overs?no...
i ask about my customers goals/music preferences,and design a system thats sounds good to THEM..........
post up a thread about good imaging,design,x-over building,etc(in a TR of course) with detailed pics and ill make it a sticky for you.....

That's really cool.
I'm going to be doing a very modest budget build, at least for how good I hope it will sound. Very simple setup, 5 speakers max, 1 4x amp driving it, single CD player... nothing too fancy. The install will be as stealth as possible.

 

[GDANE]

Ok, so noob question.... I have had the kick plate panels before in a non turbo carb regal. What do you do with the computer in a turbo regal so you can use the kickers? I have been wanting to do a system but that is my hang up.

 

[GDANE]

Installation note for 1978-1987 Buick Regal:

Installation requires bending parking brake 1.5" to the right. If vehicle is equipped with an engine computer module behind passenger kick panel, computer must be relocated under passenger floorboard carpet and covered with the supplied plastic computer module housing.



Got that from their website, Has anybody ever done that before? How does it look?

 

[GlockandRoll]

Installation note for 1978-1987 Buick Regal:

Installation requires bending parking brake 1.5" to the right. If vehicle is equipped with an engine computer module behind passenger kick panel, computer must be relocated under passenger floorboard carpet and covered with the supplied plastic computer module housing.



Got that from their website, Has anybody ever done that before? How does it look?

I have, that's why I'm going with a set of horn-loaded compression drivers, or waveguides, and putting the mids in the door location.

USD Audio WaveGuides

 

[turbobully]

I know long delay in response but I have an eclipse head unit does that make a differnece? So 2 new wires straight to the tweet from the corssover, and the two door speaker factory wires for the bass.

 

[GlockandRoll]

I know long delay in response but I have an eclipse head unit does that make a differnece? So 2 new wires straight to the tweet from the corssover, and the two door speaker factory wires for the bass.

Well hold on, does the passive crossover have 1 input and 2 outputs?
if that's the case, you need to connect the wires going to the door speakers to the mid/woofer output on the x-over, and the tweeter to the tweeter out (obviously).

if it's only a high-pass filter for the tweet, and the mid/woofer is full-range, then yeah.

 

[turbobully]

Yes you are correct there is an input and two output one for bass, the other for the tweeter. garyk1970 above told me to cap the wires going to the tweeter and run a seperate pair. I think becuase of the ohms??? I have NO experience w/ stero install but I am trying to learn, dont know the difference between 8ohm 4ohm or anything else for that matter. My other question for you two experts was going to be should I add an amp if I am running both the seperates and the 6X9's (older blaupunkts I installed in place of the 4X10's) and which should I put the amp on the seperates or 6X9? While I am at it I also have an Kicker solo baric 12" that I had in my truck I may add too. I own a sheetmetal shop and we laser cut MDF all the time so I wanted to make a new box that woudl fit under the rear shelf along w/ the amps to tuck it all away neat. I am tempted to just bring this to a stereo shop but really woudl like the satisfaction of doing it myself.

 

[turbobully]

I am not sure the difference in the corssover I missed that part. here are the specs

# omponent speaker system includes two 5-1/4" woofers, 2 tweeters, two external crossovers, and two woofer grilles
# injection-molded carbon graphite polypropylene with Aramid woofers
# butyl rubber surrounds
# 7/8" Tetron soft dome tweeters
# 2-way external crossovers
# 4-ohm impedance
# 2-35 watts RMS power range (180 watts peak)
# frequency response: 36-30,000 Hz
# sensitivity: 90 dB
# depth: 1-15/16"

 

[GlockandRoll]

If the amp is 4 channel, I'd bridge the rear two channels to mono and drive the Solo-baric 12" with that, and let the front 2 channels run the components. What you would do, is hook the amp channels up to the passive crossover.. and then connect the low-pass to the midrange, and the high-pass to the tweeter. Let the 6x9's just have two channels of the Eclipse head unit and connect the amp to the head units non-fading RCA outputs.

 

[GlockandRoll]

I'm working on a tricky design for my GN, but just too busy with work to take the project farther than the drawing board. This is my idea for an MAPD (multi-chamber aperiodic progressively dampened) enclousre for a pair of sound-stream Reference 12's in a push-pull isobaric configuration. The flat part goes against the back seat, the port tude goes towards the drivers rear tire, and what you see when you open the trunk is a magnet of one of the sub-woofers and the amp and the passive crossovers for the waveguides and mids on the flat part, to the left of the subs. YouTube - My idea for the enclosure (I think I explained that right?)