Compression fittings on brake lines?

[Vendor Defendor]

Bad idea? I heard somewhere it was. I have a dilemma (see attached picture

 

[BadAssGN]

Thats no big deal,

you need a nut unless you have it still, carfully bend and shape the line to where you want it and borrow / rent a double flaring tool...

piece of cake...

Great time to install a line lock... or is that the rear?

good luck,.

oh and don't ever use a compression fitting on brake line....ever...

 

[oddfire6]

oops...they make brass adapters to go from different sizes. but it may be metric, hopefully not. or last resort is a new tubing and double flair tool with original fitting. that small tubing bends pretty easy. fing something similar in size and bend the tubing around it to get the curley fry look...

 

[Vendor Defendor]

Already got new tubing, I just got a compression fitting and was alreay to put it together and read the compression fittings packaging (first mistake) and it said not to use on a brake line. I figured it was horse ****, but to be safe I asked some seasoned veterens first

 

[jgme]

Compression fittings should work. Although, Swagelok stainless would be preferable. The biggest worry, by far, is the liability. It's not a DOT certified method for attaching lines in a hydraulic brake system for an automotive application. Personally, I would stick with double flared SAE fittings. As noted before, it's not difficult to bend a line and double flare it with the correct tools. The auto parts stores usually have the fittings in stock.

 

[turbofish38]

I dont trust compression fittings. Why not flare both ends and use a union to join them? Other than the cost of a flaring tool it sounds like the better solution IMO.

 

[mazdatech78]

Ive used compression fittings on the back brake lines of older Civics. But those were beaters. I wouldnt use them on front brake lines or on any car that I actually cared about. Either flare the old line or replace the entire line.

James

 

[Ormand]

There was discussion some time back about compression fittings. One of the vendors of turbo Buick parts had a brake valve assembly to hold pressure for launch, and it used compression fittings. Some of the Buick folks thought it was fine, others didn't like it. But it worked, even if it doesn't' or didn't meet DOT standards.

 

[Lee Thompson]

Two kinds

More than 1 kind of compression fitting--copper like used in plumbing and then there is a steel compression fitting that is rated for HIGH pressure. When using the steel ones it is recommended to use a setting tool--not absolutely necessary as I have used them without the tool. Should be able to get them at any hyd. shop.

 

[Red Regal T]

One thing you could do, if you have any U-PULL junkyards in your area, any G-Body will have that entire brake line. Just find an unrusted unit and extract the whole line. As far as the compression fitting, I had to use one in a hard to fix otherwise brake-line location. Holding fine, so far. The location of your problem is easy to monitor. I'm sure you'll have no problem.

 

[8AV8]

You can rent a dbl flare tool from Auto Zone for 20 bucks. You basically buy it and get your money back when you return it ...I kept mine. Useful tool to have when you need it.

 

[machinegun]

DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS ON BRAKE LINE!!! The pressure in the brake lines can easily rupture the compression fittings. Get a good double flare tool and build the lines correctly or get some pre done ones from one of the companies that makes them. Double flares take a little time to master but once you figure it out, you can make beautilful lines. Stock type steel line is much easier than the stainless too. Hope this helps.

 

[Red Regal T]

DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS ON BRAKE LINE!!! The pressure in the brake lines can easily rupture the compression fittings. Get a good double flare tool and build the lines correctly or get some pre done ones from one of the companies that makes them. Double flares take a little time to master but once you figure it out, you can make beautilful lines. Stock type steel line is much easier than the stainless too. Hope this helps.

You'll be the first to know if I have a problem with mine. Expect to hear from me no sooner than 2015.

 

[BadAssGN]

You'll be the first to know if I have a problem with mine. Expect to hear from me no sooner than 2015.

John

I know they seem fine but the fact remains that it would not pass a dot safety and if you were to cause an accident due to a compression fitting you installed it would be a liability issue.


Best to use the proper flare fittings and do it right the first time.

I only see it this way as I am a fully licenced technician and we deal with liabilty related stuff everyday


JMO

 

[Red Regal T]

Well, certainly in the threadstarters case, in an easy location as his, I would simply replace the whole line. My problem was in the rear, the 1/4" line ruptured just above where the rubberline attaches just above the rear U-joint. The whole area is pretty inaccessible with no room to work. I was forced to replace part of the line, make a number of bends, and use a compression fitting because of the space constraints. And as far as a liability issue, one can stretch any situation into that. If my master cylinder failed ... if my powermaster failed ... if my tire blew etc. Really, has no bearing on the conversation. My preference in any case where possible, would be to replace the entire line, and not use any junction, but I'm confident with my compression fitting fix.