Cooing System that can hold engine @ 160

[20psiofevil]

I run a jeep 2.8l turbo diesel radiator, Evans npg race formula coolant, and a tq flow 20" fan. Temps stay 174* under partial acceleration and might see 184 at the end of a wot pull.

 

[robzombie]

After reading all these posts I would like to know why a new GBP dual fan combo only runs 10* cooler than my stock setup with single fan. It ran in the mid to low 170*s with an outside temp of 70* on the way home today. It was in the 80s yesterday and the coolant temps were in the 180s and I have the chip set on race mode so it won't shut off after it get in the 160s.

Summer temps out here will be in the high 90s to low 100s for the next three months and I'm afraid that when it's that hot and the AC is on I'll be lucky to keep my temps under 200*.

Is it the GBP setup? My stock setup with single fan was only 10* hotter than this setup. I know the FMC is a contributing factor, but how much? Is there someone running a comparable setup that would be able to give me an idea if this is normal for this setup.

I don't mind running in the 180s to low 190s as I know the motor needs some heat to burn off condensation and have proper expansion, but would like to keep it under 200* in traffic.

How much would it help if I ran a trans cooler with 10" fan on it's own and bypass the rad altogether. I have one and will install it this weekend, but am wondering if someone has done this and what results did they experience.

Rob

 

[20psiofevil]

A stock trans cooler inside of the radiator is more for bringing the fluid up to temp on cold days. If you are running a high stall converter I would install a good stacked trans cooler and bypass the radiator all together. On my car as long as the trans fluid temps are over 125 then I have good pressure for shifts and locking the converter. 160-180 is ideal though.

 

[hemi8]

I'll give the RMI w/distilled water a try and toss in a new tstat, running 50/50 antifreeze right now. Both fans kick on at low speed, sounds like an airplane at stop lights.
Mike

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Driving to the track on the interstate mine hits 158-162 A/C on 80+F outside. Fbody radiator, distilled water + RMI, V4 SLIC, stock fan, stock IC fan, no stock shroud between grill and lower rad support (got tore up) but has stock side shroud still. I think I run a 160F thermostat. Idling in the drive-thru on summer day with A/C on, it hits 185F. In 45 mph stop go traffic, its around 170-175F.

 

[we4Mateo]

Driving to the track on the interstate mine hits 158-162 A/C on 80+F outside. Fbody radiator, distilled water + RMI, V4 SLIC, stock fan, stock IC fan, no stock shroud between grill and lower rad support (got tore up) but has stock side shroud still. I think I run a 160F thermostat. Idling in the drive-thru on summer day with A/C on, it hits 185F. In 45 mph stop go traffic, its around 170-175F.

Mines about the same but I run 50/50 coolant to water with RMI-25. I do drive my car in the winter so I need the anti-freeze. CAS V4, f body rad, etc is the same but I am upgrading to the gbody dual fans. I can get my temp up to 190 and it won't come down with a/c on so I'm trying more cfm through the fans. It gets humid and 100+ here in IA so I need the extra flow during those months.

 

[gn4u2c]

Remember more to it than just fans, radiator and what mix your using,
I use gbody parts rad, stock fan, 180 stat, fan on at 175 my car never runs over 185 with 50/50 green, with precision FMIC

A crap water pump, improper routing of coolant lines, trans / oil cooler in rad bringing temps up, ( use external coolers) garbage in between rad/ ac cond,
Just fixed a local GN with heat issues they used some silly hose to replace the intake S and it was kinked, new hose car fixed, This was after they had a well known Buick guy put new rad, dual fans, purple ice in it .. sheeze basics first.