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meanchicken

gallo vicioso
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
5,254
Is there a way to trick the fan to run high speed full time?
I think my fan is not pulling enough air at low speed to cool the radiator behind the front mount IC.

Been getting some hot days lately and my engine temp has been running warmer than I like. It's been running 200-225.....it's gotten as hot as 243 a couple times before the high speed fan kicked on and quickly cooled it back down to 215-220

I still have the original radiator and fan and a 160 stat with the 3 holes drilled in the perimeter. The radiator was re-cored about 3 years ago by the previous owner.

I'll be doing the F-Body radiator and fan swap soon, but till then, I want to coll this bugger down.
 
I hate to beat a deadhorse but.... I had a FMIC on my car I bought it. Its too hot down here in Louisiana as it is in California to not utilize the the technology of ALky & a SLIC. I dont see the benefits of having a large FMIC on a street car when you have to sacrifice cooling and A/C temps.

Back in the day a FMIC was the bomb. Now with all of the good SLIC's and alky injection you can have the best of both worlds. Good air flow, low radiator temps, and ice cold A/C.

Just last weekend I was stuck in traffic on saturday afternoon and the heat index was 105. My temps never got above 185 and the A/C didnt miss a beat.

NOW...would my ET be a hair better than it is? WHo knows. I got kicked out of the track for no cage anyway so in my book if your in a hot climate ditch the FMIC. Someone will pay enough for it to buy you a SLIC.

Just my 2 cents.

ED
 
Just jump out the ceramic resistor.

X2 It will run on "high" speed all the time like this.

Bear with me...I'm 1/2 stupid:rolleyes:
Just ask Papa Lou Czarnota...he'll tell you not to let me play with air tools and car lifts.:eek:

Can you give me some spefic instructions on how to do this...specifically?

I know where the resistor is and I know where the wires are. Is this just a matter of clipping the wires at the resistor and splicing them together?
Remember...beeeeeeeee very specifiiiiiiiic and talk sloooooowly.:D
I won't get insulted.

A pic will be worth a whole bunch of words.
 
I hate to beat a deadhorse but.... I had a FMIC on my car I bought it. Its too hot down here in Louisiana as it is in California to not utilize the the technology of ALky & a SLIC. I dont see the benefits of having a large FMIC on a street car when you have to sacrifice cooling and A/C temps.

Back in the day a FMIC was the bomb. Now with all of the good SLIC's and alky injection you can have the best of both worlds. Good air flow, low radiator temps, and ice cold A/C.

Just last weekend I was stuck in traffic on saturday afternoon and the heat index was 105. My temps never got above 185 and the A/C didnt miss a beat.

NOW...would my ET be a hair better than it is? WHo knows. I got kicked out of the track for no cage anyway so in my book if your in a hot climate ditch the FMIC. Someone will pay enough for it to buy you a SLIC.

Just my 2 cents.

ED

Thanks.
I do appreciate the feedback.
My FMIC is an oldschool Eastern Performance model. It's half the size of the current full scale FMIC's but still does a good enough job for me.....and the price was right (Thanks Lou Czarnota!)....:D

I know that newer/nicer/bigger/better flowing SLICs do a better job than the OE SLIC....but they'll still get heat soaked sitting where they are at no matter how pretty they are...

I know a few local guys with the big FMIC's who are using the F-Bod radiator and fan arrangement and they are running comfortably at 180 +/- 5 to10....never going over 200 deg, so for this climate, it seems like a good option and I still get to keep the gains from the FMIC.:D
 
Aaaaaah seriously tho:D .....how does a knuckle head like me properly jump out the ceramic resistor?
 
Easiest way is to just run a wire from one terminal of the resistor to the other. Done! Then if you ever want to go back just remove it. Make sure you use the proper gauge wire though. Would think 12 ga minimum.
 
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