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Crank-torque alignment

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BLACK MAGIC RACING

formerly turbo_canuck
Joined
Jul 18, 2001
Messages
877
Anybody ever have a problem with the torque converter not ligning up with the recess in the middle of the back of the crank? Mine looks like the converter is about 1/8" too low when trying to mate the tranny to the block, I'm guessing due to align boring. How should I remedy this?
 
This is normal the weight of the converter is causing it to drop, once bolted up it will be fine.
 
So, you rebuilt your motor and now putting it all back together and all the same stuff now won't fit? Is the line hone the only change, or is this a new crank or new converter? Is the trans already bolted to the engine? Is there a pilot bearing/bushing in the back of the crank that wasn't there before?

If the engine and trans are bolted together, maybe loosen them up, try to shift them around a little and see if it stabs. I cannot imagine a line hone being 1/8" difference...
 
The engine is new(I.e. never been on this tranny) as is the torque. Paint isn't a factor, and there's no wiggle room on the torque. It's off by quite a bit. :(
 
Converter fully seated onto the stator support/input shaft?
If you have pulled the trans up to the block and the converter is pressed up to the end of the crank, take the trans back out and inspect the ft pump for being damaged.............
 
Anybody ever have a problem with the torque converter not ligning up with the recess in the middle of the back of the crank? Mine looks like the converter is about 1/8" too low when trying to mate the tranny to the block, I'm guessing due to align boring. How should I remedy this?

If I understand this correctly, the converter snout is too small for the pilot hole in the crank? o_O

I found out the hard way that early BMS cranks had a pilot hole smaller than current V-6 cranks.

Maybe the old engine crank had the smaller hole than the one in the new engine?

In one case I had to have the converter snout turned down for the smaller crank. In your case, if in fact this is the issue, you can have a sleeve made for the converter snout for the larger crank pilot diameter.
 
You are making it sound like the Crank is inside the Block out of alignment! Is this correct? A Line Bore done incorrectly!!
 
I can't believe a line bore/hone would cause enough offset to be a problem.
Check the pilot bore size in the crank against the pilot size on the TC.
If OK, dial indicate the pilot bore in the crank for runout.
If OK, dial indicate the flexplate for runout.
If OK, mount the TC to the flexplate and dial indicate the TC hub for runout in two locations. Close to the bottom of the hub, and up near the end of the hub. Check for runout and wobble.
Let us know what you find.

I've only run across this once, but I did find a TC hub welded to a TC very crookedly. Like the leaning tower of pepperoni pizza.
 
Thanks for all the replies, turns out it was a lot simpler than I thought. I hadnt taken into account the crank failure suffered in my last engine, seems the rear main bent the stator shaft of the trans on its way south
 
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