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Crankcase vacuum pump options

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SPOT MY 6

Stock crawlin National...
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
739
Im looking to relieve crankcase pressure and have a few ideas:

- Pull vacuum from turbo inlet. Create filter/drain system that runs to valve cover or block
- Wire an electronic pump(s) (such as a LT1 smog pump) with hobbs swich that turns on under boost. Run to valve cover with filter/drain system.
- Put fitting in exhuast that will pull vacuum and run to valve cover.

I do not want to run a belt driven pump since I drive on the street a lot. For those of you who have ran a crankcase vacuum setup, please post your results and experiences.

Thanks.
 
I have been running the electric GM pump for two years now and it seems to work great.
 
Race Jace said:
I have been running the electric GM pump for two years now and it seems to work great.


Does it make any noise that would bother you on a street car? What does it discharge to? Is this on any cars stock where it could be found at the boneyard? Sorry so many questions but I'm interested in this route as well as the exhaust but the pump seems easier to install right away.
 
Race Jace said:
I have been running the electric GM pump for two years now and it seems to work great.
Thanks jason. Have you check crankcase vacuum with a gauge before and after the pump install? Which pumps are you using? Any filtration or canister for accumulated oil?
 
I just got an LT1 pump from a friend. It will be going on this week and vacuum/pressure will be checked before and after the install.
 
SPOT MY 6 said:
I just got an LT1 pump from a friend. It will be going on this week and vacuum/pressure will be checked before and after the install.


Well, did it work and how much vacuum does it pull ?

Thanks,

George
 
Well 1) I procrastinate so I didnt start on it until last week, and 2) the fittings I needed to go from the -12an on the catch can to the 5/8 ID vacuum hose came in today. I will be out of town Fri-Tues so it will be done next week. Ill update then. Sorry for the delay....


FYI - I used a vacuum pump off of my 01 Blazer instead of the LT1 pump, a moroso catch can, hobbs switch, 5/8" ID heater hose, and a valve cover breather with a fitting on it to run the hose to the pump. Ill try to get some pics up here too.
 
You get the kinks worked out?

I was wondering if you needed to have a vacuum relief valve (kindof like a pressure regulator... except in reverse (vacuum)). This would go between the filter and the valve cover..... where the relief valve would only let in enough air to keep the vacuum from dropping too low..... does this make sense?

Example.... vacuum pump hooked to DS valve cover.... push in filter in PS valve cover..... vacuum pump cuts on.... but never pulls any measurable vacuum... because the filter is free flowing and lets the influx of fresh air keep from actually pulling vacuum.

With the pressure relief valve.... the valve would be closed under no vacuum.... and as vacuum started to rise in crankcase... valve would crack open and begin to let fresh air in crankcase.... if vacuum level dropped... it would close off until vacuum reached setpoint... and then open up again..... just like a pressure regulator... except in reverse....


Trying to find posts on this.... but details are sketchy... I am just thinking about how I believe it should work.....
 
Blazer

I have seen some Mustangs @ the track that has such a fitting--maybe Morrosso. Billet aluminum with an adjustable cap to control the amount of incoming air. Billet fitting on one VC and the vacuum pump hooked to the other VC. Your thinking is right--you need to be pulling more air than is available in the crankcase.
 
Well, did it work and how much vacuum does it pull ? George

The elec. pump works well George if you use all the right parts. Have done a few cars like mine.

Call me if you would like the particulars and details.:smile:
 
I have seen some Mustangs @ the track that has such a fitting--maybe Morrosso. Billet aluminum with an adjustable cap to control the amount of incoming air. Billet fitting on one VC and the vacuum pump hooked to the other VC. Your thinking is right--you need to be pulling more air than is available in the crankcase.


Summit Link

Here are some Moroso makes..... I think I could build one real cheap..... just take a little time..... probably won't be quite as pretty.....

I think you plug the PCV off... install vacuum pump (preferably running all the time).... line goes from vacuum pump.... through catch can..... from catch can to DS valve cover..... with one of these moroso vacuum relief valves in the PS valve cover..... with the vacuum relief valve set on about 10-12 in vacuum to start with....

You could do an extra trick and plumb bottom of catch can with a petcock... and a drainline back into pan..... so with the engine off.... you just open petcock... and drain the catch can back into the pan..... no fuss.... no mess....
 
with the electric pumps you do not need any sort of relief valve. they simply do not pull enough vacuum to need one. The electric pumps pull about 2" vac during a 1/4 mi pull. not enough to really increase HP but it does wonders for oil leaks.

you do not hear anything on a street car because it is activated via a hobs switch at 2# of boost. you can't run the electric ones on a continous basis as they will fail.

the bigger mechanical belt driven pumps require relief valves. I would suggest anything over 10" of vacuum you need a relief.

hope this helps. the pump i use is GM part#12568382
 
with the electric pumps you do not need any sort of relief valve. they simply do not pull enough vacuum to need one. The electric pumps pull about 2" vac during a 1/4 mi pull. not enough to really increase HP but it does wonders for oil leaks.

you do not hear anything on a street car because it is activated via a hobs switch at 2# of boost. you can't run the electric ones on a continous basis as they will fail.

the bigger mechanical belt driven pumps require relief valves. I would suggest anything over 10" of vacuum you need a relief.

hope this helps. the pump i use is GM part#12568382

So are you saying.... no breather in the pass valve cover? just plugged off solid?
 
I have the pump hooked up and working but I haven't checked it with a gauge yet. I put a fitting in my intake's valley so that I can hook the gauge to it but just haven't done it yet. Car is down for a new fuel system so when I am done I will hook up the gauge and let you know the difference in vacuum (or pressure) between off and on.

RaceJace do you mean there is a 2" difference between off and on, or your motor pulls 2" while it is on, but you are unsure what it was at when it was off?
 
I had my buddy Jack from Racetronix fix me up a killer custom harness for my electric vaccum pump. It comes on at 5 psi from the hobb switch, it is wired to a shift light inside the car to let me know when its on. And it also has switches to over ride the system so I can either manually turn it on or turn it off completely. I don't believe I picked up any hp from it, if I did its very minimal, but after a pass it looks as though the motor has not been thrashed. No oil tracks coming from the dip stick tube, and the valve covers are drip free. It definately stops the silly leaks caused from being under pressure. Pull the foam out of it and you will get more vaccum from the pump, if my memory serves me correctly. I see 4 to 5" when its on. Both valve covers have breathers that come into a Y block and into the pump. Then empties in a catch can. My pump has a secondary on it that has to be pulled out. Because I hooked it up and went down the street and not even getting into boost. it was shooting oil out of my dip stick. Once that piece was removed it was all good.
 
What would happen if you ran two of these electric GM part#12568382 pumps? One on top of the other? One for each cover with a Y for the return to the canister. Isn't 12'' of mercury the goal? Just curious :redface:
 
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